Thoughts on travel in France

We love France, we love the south of France, we love Nice!! It is a quieter country than Italy where everyone shouts at one another. Nice of course being so near to the Italian border, is sort of half Italian and half French. One is just likely to be greated at a cafe by Buon Giorno and Bon Jour. After buying a quick lunch of pizza one day, as we left the young man said " merci" - when Jim said "grazie" to him, he gave a big smile and shook Jim's hand.

The French are very nice and can be very helpful. When Jim went to get car out of garage in Cassis, there seemed to be no way to pay. Our credit cards do not work with automated machines in most of Europe, their have adopted chip and pin cards, and it seemed this machine didn't take any bills either. A helpful woman in her car stopped to help and sent him to the second floor of the garage to the office. Someone along the line another woman stopped to ask if she could help. The man at the office took the parking ticket and said there was a special tourist rate and only charged 15 euro for 2 days!! A couple girls helped us figure out the machine for buying Metro tickets in Paris. Many very nice people.

Most people speak a little English, the few we found who didn't (one being the girl I bought train tickets from to go to Marseille) did fine with my bit of "train French" - simply knowing the words for roundtrip (aller-retour) and today (aujourd'hui).

When you get into the city, it is just like NYC. Get out of my way or I'll knock you over. Occasionally one says "pardon" or "excusez-moi" but mostly they are similar to New Yorkers in Time Square who ignore you. Try walking down the street to the crosswalk with your rolling luggage, carryon bag and purse or camera bag - young folks just stand in front of you and don't move. Of course, if they are speaking French, you know they live there - but others seem to do the same thing and they aren't speaking French. Of course the Germans are pushy and will get by, given my heritage, I almost knocked over a young lady standing in my way on the way to the airport bus.

Food and wine are great even in the smallest of cafe's. No such thing as a greasy spoon or hole-in-the wall. We did discover in Nice that one place had warm croissants - so we ate our breakfast there! Hotels all offer breakfast, which includes cereals, cold cuts and eggs (hard boiled) and croissants but we could get coffee and croissants for the price of one breakfast. Besides, we didn't really feel we needed all that food in such warm weather.

Hot and sunny everywhere. Even though temperatures in the mid to high 70's, it felt much hotter, the sea was warm. Cool breezes on the sea coast but not chilly, even at night.

There are many tolls on the highway, but the roads are in excellent condition. Pretty easy getting from one place to another. Having little Garmin most of the time was a success - we never opened a map and I was sorry I carried those heavy Michelin maps over there. What little Nuvi Garmin did not tell you is that your hotel was on the side of the street where the bus lane was and you couldn't drop your bags off!! Good thing this was in Nice, we just returned the car and walked to the hotel. At least we already knew our way around there.
In Cassis, Nuvi tried to send us into the sea - but she didn't know that after a certain time in the morning they closed the road to traffic!! We found the back of the hotel, I walked around, and Michelle who I had talked to book the room told me to bring the bags around and where to park the car a short distance away. So, we did get there!! In Villefranche, we rode around with Nuvi "recalculating" several times - only because what looked like a dead end was a tiny road down to the sea!! We finally got it right when we stopped and I got out to look over the wall and see the rest of the little road!! Parking in small resort like Villefranche costs as much as NYC!! But, it was a breeze being able to throw luggage in the car and just drive off. If one takes a train there, there is a long walk downhill along the seacoast (which is OK, we've done that before) but it is an impossible climb up the hill back to the train station and requires a taxi ride. We have decided we like having a car!

So now, we are off to planning trip for next year! I want to go to Germany, but not sure Jim can tolerate 2 weeks of being around other people like me. He did say he would try! If not there, we may do the west coast of France, visit Bordeaux wine region and San Sebastian/Bilbao region where France borders Spain. That would be another foodie trip!! Stay tuned....

On the way home....

We had our last breakfast at our favorite cafe this morning - fresh hot croissants and cafe creme. Then after going back to hotel to pick up our bags, we walked a few blocks to the number 98 bus stop for the trip to the airport. 4 euros each, great deal!! In previous times leaving Nice we had to be at airport very early and had to pay for a taxi to get there. Not only was this later flight great in that aspect, but we also got to see Nice airport open and active! We had time to sit and get a drink and sandwich before our flight left. It was a 2 hr flight to LHR.

We actually landed 15 minutes early in London which gave us a good 2 hrs to connect to our next flight. Ha! What we had time for was to me to run into Harrods to get our Christmas pudding, to use les toilets and then make our way to our next flight. Terminal 5 is huge and after much walking and then a electric train ride out to the new satellite terminal C we had a few quick minutes to by a coffee at Starbucks before boarding the flight. Sadly, I did not have enough time to browse in my favorite English shops in Terminal 5.

Our flight left sort of on time, we had started to be pushed out and then were pushed backed in for a vapor lock in the gas tank. Pilot said it would take only a few minutes, and he was right. So now, instead of being a few minutes earlier landing, we will arrive on time.

We have already had our gin & tonic, our meal, tea and dessert and I'm writing this before I take a nap. I'm watching Rango, a Johnny Depp movie where his voice is the voice of a lizard. I like it!!

Battery running low on little Mini…..

Next entry will be a "thoughts on France"' Stayed tuned.

Nice Day 4

We decided not to go to beach today. Spent time wandering around all our favorite spots, sitting and people watching, enjoying our lbreakfast of warm croissants and cafe creme, and our last salad and wine lunch. We had to stay in town near the hotel today so we could check-in on line and get the best seats possible for flights home. So, we started organizing and cramming all of our possessions into our suitcases. Check-in accomplished, we were back out strolling around. We had our last Nice meal at a restaurant where we ate the last time - another Italian one. Ah, one more nightime stroll and it was off to bed! In the morning, we shall have plenty of time for those wonderful croissants one last time, and then we will be off to get the bus to the airport.

Nice Day 3

Here we are at the Beau Rivage last night for drinks (oops, aperitifs) before dinner.

Other photos will be in album. We had a great time, started off with our aperitifs at 7:30 at the beach bar and didn't leave our table until after 11pm. Ah, this was something we were really looking forward to and it was just as great as the last time we were there. We got home well after midnight - and there were more people in the streets and out and about than there were at noon. It was Saturday night in Nice and a great time!! One almost hated to come in, but we were tired!

Shopping/sightseeing in the old town this morning, then off to beach in the afternoon. We may be going over to the old town tonight - some of the areas are more Italian than others....Jim says we are going to "little Italy". Ravioli was first made here in Nice and there are tons of shops selling homemade ravioli all shapes and sizes and fillings. How wonderful to just go to the store and buy fresh ravioli!! Looking forward to eating some tonight - every place has Italian and French food. This is just the perfect place!!

Nice Day 2

Last night's dinner - we both had scampi and linguine with an Asian touch - and gelato later walking home.

Spent the morning wandering through some of our favorite spots, and looking in our favorite shops. Aside from the tram's arrival and Place Massena having a bit of a makeover, Nice is pretty much the same place.

This afternoon we went to the beach - my favorite beach in the whole world. Well, second favorite, as Vernazza's rocks are really my favorite. Nice is fantastic for the beach - NO sand. Marvelous. You can come to the beach, then walk and shop, go eat lunch, no sand sticking to you. If only I could take this beach to Ocean City!!! Check out the photo album!

Tonight we are going to our special dinner on the beach at the Beau Rivage. We have been there in the past and I hope the food is still as good because the view cannot be beat!

Nice Day 1

We are here in Nice! Yikes, traffic awful, bus lane in front of hotel so you couldn't stop. After circling the block we decided to ditch the car at Avis which is at the Gare SNCF (train station) and walk to our hotel, dragging our little rolling cases up the Avenue Jean Medecin and eventually to Hotel Lafayette . At least we know where we are from being here so many times in the past. We are both in one of our favorite places on earth. Hotel pictures of room will be done tomorrow after it's cleaned. We threw all our stuff around before I remembered to take a photo!

We have been to the old town, did some shopping already. Lunch was had at an Italian pizza place - we got to talk a little Italian. It was just a small place run by a couple Italians. We are very near the border to Italy. We sat on a bench just watch the sea, people on the beach and the flights going in Nice airport.

Meals are less expensive here and tonight we will eat well for less euros!! We are finished with the car and will take the bus or train if we decide to go to Monte Carlo/Monaco.

Villefranche Day 2

Woke up this morning to a Disney cruise ship in the harbor. Markets set up and all sorts of goings on so the cruise folks will buy, buy, buy. We even had to pay to park because I suppose the free parking area was used for buses to take them around!

We went to the beach today, then took a drive around Cap Ferrat - beautiful estates and villas - but tiny one lane roads (with 2 lane traffic). After a drive around the whole area we returned home. It was one of the reasons we wanted to have a car here - but too difficult to try and get anywhere. We came back and had salads (and wine) on the quai - and are now back on our balcony and our air conditioned room. Only in the high 70's but the sun is very hot. Nice breeze and just beautiful here.

****highlight of the evening was watching the Disney ship leave the port and tooting "When You Wish Upon A Star"........second highlight was dinner in our now favorite Villefranche cafe....we ate there last night too...and ate there the last time we were here. We have now dubbed Le Cosmos our favorite!

Villefranche Day 1

Breakfast in the garden and then in a few minutes will be off to Villefranche. Miss Garmin Nuvi, whose voice irritates Jim, will guide us right there. Best thing besides little Dell mini that I even bought!! And yes, you can change the voice, but they all irritate Jim. He does admit she is helpful and is so much easier than maps - which I wish I had not dragged along.
Next stop: Villefranche sur le Mer and supposedly free wi-fi!

We have arrived, took us awhile to find the hotel. We had stayed there before and one of us knew you could take the car to the front of it; of course, the driver was sure you couldn't. Nuvi's instructions were a bit difficult to follow - but eventually we ended up at front door of hotel - street was very teeny and windy down to the harbor - but the street was there!!!!!
We dropped off our bags and had salads on the quai - sitting here on this gorgeous balcony (check out the photos) while writing this. I am right at same spot where I saw Rod Stewart a few years ago - will keep my eye out for him!!

Last night we had seafood on the harbor. Mine was salted cod with mussels, carrots, green beans, egg and potato all with a big boil of aioli (garlic mayonnaise). Jim had frito misto -- fried tidbits of all sea creatures. A fine meal.

This morning, after breakfast on our terrace we were off to Plage de Pampelonne. To go to the beach Bridgitte Bardot made famous was on Jim's bucket list. We have now completed the adventure. The beaches are really beautiful, that whole area is gorgeous as we drove by in the car. We peasants parked at the public lot and went to the public beach. One needs reservations for the beach and lunch at the big places. We sat and watch people being brought in from their yachts by dinghy. Over head, helicopters were also bringing folks in for lunch. We stopped by the Monoprix after coming home and had our lunch on our terrace. Very sad. Tonight we go in town again for a bit of the even better good life!!

St. Tropez Day 1

We are here!! One and half hour drive from Cassis, and little Nuvi took us right to the driveway of the hotel!! Never even had to open a map. Free parking here and we are about 10 min walk to all the excitement at the harbor that you see here.We had lunch at the harbor, did a bit of looking in shops and then came back to the hotel and currently are having snacks and wine on our terrace. Tonight we will eat at the harbor and pick out a yacht....

Check out photos - some from Cassis have been uploaded and some for St. Tropez!

Cassis Day 2

We took a walk after breakfast, visited all the little shops and the market. There was this very small artsy market with paintings, handmade jewelry and the sort. The most beautiful flowers were there - and they were not real! I wanted to take them all home!!
Back to hotel to change and on the way to the beach I had ice cream cone. Well, it was sorbet actually - one scoop of cassis and one scoop of limoncello. I may have to go there for dinner! However, we were smart today and made a reservation for 9pm at the cafe we really wanted to eat at last night.
Pebble beach (whoo-hooo! No sand!) was great, water beautiful but bone chilling. We each got our feet wet anyway, after all, it is the Mediterranean Sea and one must do it.
We are back at hotel now - Jim on balcony reading the great Kindle - a wonderful creation as he did not have to drag tons of books along this trip. I'm sitting inside in front of the open french doors -- the view is just beyond belief.
To be continued - I feel an outing coming to the Grand Marnier crepe stand.
Later:
Ah yes, while Jim was napping I did go get a crepe.....and watched the woman sprinkle it with lots of Grand Marnier. My kind of snack.
Dinner was great, we both had fish soup and the fish which turned out to be grouper. Finished with Pannacotte with strawberry couolis for dessert.....and a free Limoncello on the house! Hey, what country is this???
To St. Tropez tomorrow!!

Cassis Day 1

There is no internet, no wifi here at the Hotel le Golfe. BUT, sitting on the harbor, our own sidewalk cafe right beneath us and the price of 110 euros a night make up for it.

This morning (Saturday) we took a short walk to Avis, trailing all our wordly possessions behind us. Off we went in our new ride (a 4-door Peugot) to Cassis which was only 30 minutes away. Our Garmin took us right to Cassis. Garmin Nuvi, herein further known as Nuvi, could get us to harbor, but cars were not allowed. As Rick said in "The Book", hotels were signed but hard to find. The roads are tiny, winding down to the harbor and all one way with many roundabouts. We felt like Chevy Chase in European vacation - just how many more times are we going around in the roundabout AND what Chevy didn't have was an irritating voice saying "recalculating". Eventually we got down to the harbor and right in back of our hotel. I walked around front - WOW - the hotel's sidewalk cafe sits right on the harbor and it was gorgeous! Jim took our bags in and we left them there until our room was ready. We took the car to the car park and there it will stay until we bail it out on Monday when we leave for St. Tropez. We surveyed the harbor, had lunch, checked out the beach and then headed back to our room.....and our balcony. We are still here - can't take our eyes off the view!
We were not sure of what time to eat, we can see all the cafe tables from our balcony and many tables were empty. We went out at 7:30 to shop for where we wanted to eat. Quickly we learned that we were out of luck due to not having a reservation. We finally found a cafe with good priced menu, not far from oour hotel. And, they were able to seat us. For 24 euro we had a 3 course meal. This was a cheaper menu, as one can also find 30 euro and higher menus. For the uninitiated "Menu" means what they use to call a fixed price meal. For one price you have your choise of various items for the 3 courses. All are written in French, but we can usually understand what we are getting and an occasional waiter who speaks as much English as I do Frfench will help assist with an item I can't figure out.
We have already decided not to take the boat ride tomorrow to the calanques. Seeing photos, well, sort of been there and done that in Capri last year. Everyone has them, and they all want you to pay and go see them. We saw them in Italy....and will skip doing it here. It will not only save a few euros but put us on the beach!! And there are many places to eat ice cream, plus the Grand Marnier crepe stand to keep me busy. Check out new photos.

Aix-en-Provence Day 3 (Marseille)

Took train to Marseille today after breakfast of croissant, tartine and cafe creme. Well, I had the tartine, Jim had the croissant. For those not familiar, tartine is nothing but a baguette with butter. Yummy.

We had a great time in Marseille, will put some photos in album. Hot and sunny here. Easy trip over on the train, walked to the harbor and walked some of the old back streets. We took the tourist train which takes you to the far parts of the harbor and then up to Notre Dame de la Garde. It sits high above the city - you can see if far away in some of the photos. The wrist on the baby Jesus that Mary is holding is 42 inches!! The whole statue weighs 9 tons. Incredible. Most of the back streets are grimey and questionable, but the tourist area around the harbor is quite nice. The harbor is HUGE and beautiful. We split a sandwich before hopping on the Metro to the train station and then coming home. Arrived back here around 5:30pm. We will have late night dinner here in Aix, again watching the sights on the Cours Mirabeau and then tomorrow we will be driving to Cassis, about 30 minutes from here. I'm not sure of internet connection there, but hey, we will be staying in a room over looking the harbor. The good life is really starting to begin!!

Aix-en-Provence Day 2

After our usual breakfast of croissants and cafe creme, we were off to the markets. We went to a big flower market, produce market and then to a clothing one which seemed to cover the whole Cours Mireabeau (the main street) . By the way, I always seem to get a real dislike for French women by this point. No matter what age, I don't think I saw one woman who wears a size larger than 2. It just isn't fair. So many cute things to buy, if you were a size 2. But, I did buy a pair of white Birkenstock sandals for 33 euros and a bar of local soap that smells like peaches!!

We had lunch today at a side walk cafe, I had a Grand Marnier crepe and Jim had one of those terrific pizzas with paper thin crust. Think I want to start making my own thin crusts at home. On the way back to the hotel, I bought a purse. Oh, I think I bought a sac - am I correct Tom?? It's so terrific I have decided to use it for the rest of the trip. I look totally out of place with my one from home - I now will look like every other woman on the street with my big sac tucked under my arm. To further blend in I'm trying desperately to shrink to a size 2, so far no success - and I've only been looking at all the pastries in the windows. I did sample the local famous pastry calissons d' Aix and was glad I did because it wasn't anything special and I was glad I didn't buy a bag of them! I will save calories for something yummy!

Aix-en-Provence Day 1

A few more photos added to Avignon. Rained last night into early morning. Blue skies and sun is shining this morning. Now we are off to Aix - 1 hr. 15min bus ride. See you there!
Hello from Aix - arrived on the bus and eventually found our hotel. Probably would have less confusing if we got off at the right stop (train station), instead of going around corner to the bus station. But , eventually we found our way. Check out the room in the photo albums, I started to add a few from our orientation walk! We had pizza for lunch - I had slice of 3 cheeses, emmenthal, goat and I forget the third. It was terrific. They serve it folded over in 2, wrapped in paper and then off you go to a bench! Jim did the mushroom. We walked a bit, found the Monoprix, went downstairs to the grocery part and Jim picked out 2 bottles of wine while I found some fresh duck foie gras. Next was a baquette and then we headed home. I have a great big old fashioned bath tub -- couldn't find any cool soaps or bath salts. I will definitely be on the search tomorrow!! Later we will head to the Cours Mirabeau to eat at a cafe. Will take more photos then....it's a very pretty tree lined street. There are teeny streets and squares all over....much to check out tomorrow, plus the markets.

Avignon Day 2 continued

Check out the photo links on the right. There are some photos of Paris and Avignon. Fairly decent wi-fi connection here, got some uploaded while I could. Sunny and bright, we visited the Palace of the Popes and the big park on top of the hill - had to be two thousand steps to get there. There is a little tourist train that takes you up there but we couldn't find it and rather than waste time looking, off we went up the steps! Definitely worth it for the view and to see the St. Benezet Bridge or what there is left of it! Bridge has been knocked down several times by icy floods - they gave up fixing it. It was built in 1171. A little old. They have a nursey rhyme about it. After lunch in the park, then then easy walk down! We have walked most of Avignon's streets, some of them pedestrian free - it is a very small walled city. Back to hotel, my char duties out of the way - I wash our underwear/shirts every afternoon and they are dry by morning. Particularly nice having a terrace to dry them on - we are on first floor - terrace is actually a balcony of sorts. Tonight we are headed out to dinner in one of the small squares and tomorrow we will get the bus to Aix.

Avignon Day 2

This is the Palace of the Popes. At one time, Avignon was actually the Vatican! Wonderful meal last night, in a little restaurant recommended by hotel's Sylvie. She's great, we are scrapping plans to go by train tomorrow to Aix and going by bus. She's very helpful. Today we will see take the tour of the Palace and see all the sights there are to see.....and eat and drink wine of course. Wine is wonderful, no additives to muck it up!

Avignon Day 1

We finished our last night in Paris by eating at our favorite cafe in the Montmarte. Haughty, isn't it? We laughed, because since it is where we ate the last time we figured it must be our favorite and usual spot! Better than TV, sitting there watching the folks who walked by while sipping on our wine. I had incredible chicken with mushroom sauce and Jim had incredible veal with a mustard sauce. Prices were really good, considering where we were and the entertainment provided by the passersby. We finished eating around 10:30 pm and on the way to the Metro you could see the lightning flashing across the city below. As we got to the bottom of the hill, it started raining. However, quickly we got one the Metro stops and rode home in dry comfort!! So far, the rain has not ruined any of our plans.

This morning, it started raining while we were having our croissants and coffee, but by the time we went back to the hotel, got our bags and left, it had stopped! Had one transfer on the Metro to take our to Gare de Lyon. Pretty painless and we are currently on the TGV zipping along to the south, and in 2.5 hours we will arrive at the Avignon TGV station. It is not in the center of town, so we will have to ride the shuttle bus into the center of the city. Our hotel is a short walk away from where the bus drops us off.
Meanwhile I shall sit here and play video games to pay the time. I have comfy little table and even a place to plug in little Dell Mini - all on my second class ticket! We stopped and bought a sandwich and drink and will have lunch before reaching Avignon.

We are here in Avignon - sunny, wifi only works on our little terrace. Very old building with thick walls! Cute little walled town......

Paris Day 3

This morning after cafe creme and croissants and une tartine for me, off we went to the sewers. Interesting, smelly but that's about it. Tom, read about it in a book - it was that thrilling to be there in person! Then we took a tree shaded walk from there along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower and Trocedaro. After lunch in the Champs du Mars parc, we strolled home for a rest. Tonight - off to the Pigale and Montmarte with lots of walking!!
Will not pay for internet from now forward because won't be here all day tomorrow. We leave for Avignon on 11am TGV. We are supposed to have wi-fi in Avignon! Sorry, no photos today, internet is very slow, TV cable just went out. For a minute, we thought we were home with Comcast!

Paris Day 2

After breakfast of croissants and cafe creme at the cafe next to our hotel, we were off to Notre Dame and Ile St. Louis.

Very hot today, 85F and being a weekend the city is really crowded. We bought sandwiches and a little carafe of wine and sat on the edge of the Seine to eat. Many, many boat tours! I can't ever remember seeing so many at one time! We walked and walked and have plans for staying in our own neighboorhood tonight to eat. The river and the Eiffel Tower are both a short walk from us and we were thinking about the Bateau Mouche. Rain is predicted, not sure when it will arrive, umbrellas in hand, we will continue on!!

Late evening: After we ate , we took a ride on the Bateau Mouche on the Seine. We saw parts of Paris by water we had not seen before! We started at the Eiffel Tower, which was twinkling at 10pm and it was not quite dark yet! Later videos in the dark, this photographer screwed up. Too bad. A late night glass of wine was had at the same place we ate - Cafe du Marche and somewhere around 1pm we walked across the street to our hotel and went to bed! For those wondering, we both had the daily special plats - steak!

Paris- day 1

Things never seem to work out the way you plan, but then, here I am sitting in our hotel room in Paris with no complaints. The BA flight coming into BWI was late coming from London, therefore, our flight was late leaving. Seems they had a strong headwind, so we had a strong tailwind and made up the time. Great, don't you think? Until we got over LHR (London airport for you newbies) and the pilot told us all this good news...and then added that due to air congestion we would have to circle for 20 minutes, which in total would put us in almost 30 minutes late!!!

Then they had to wait for the bus to arrive to take us all to the other end of Terminal 5. Oh, well, missed the connection to Paris! BA is good, nice man quickly put us on another flight that left in half hour, so we still had to run! The new flight went into Orly instead of Charles de Gaulle - so with Rick's help we had to mastermind plans to get into the city from there. During the 50 minutes bus ride, I recalled taking that same Air France bus back in 1969 and 1971. So, then we're off the bus, onto the Metro for 2 stops - and we are home on Rue Cler. This is our 5th visit to our favorite neighborhood. The twinkling Eiffel Tower is nearby and so is our favorite cafe. And with all the air delays we only had a 30 minute delay getting into our hotel. All is well and wine and food are waiting.

Late in the evening:

Confit du Canard - favorite dish in our favorite Cafe Marche on Rue Cler. Fried duck, fried potatoes and salad. Ah, and there was wine too! And a walk to the Eiffel Tower.

Then finally, sleep in a bed instead of an airplane seat!