Thoughts on Christkindlmarkt

This trip has been everything I expected and more.  It was like being in a winter wonderland.  The markts are all different, many different themes and attractions, some more focused on children and also, the foods are all different and each markt provides its own experiences.   I have never seen more beautiful Christmas decorations and displays and the food is a German girl’s delight!   We met St. Nikolaus, Krampus and saw the Christkind in Nurnberg…..everything I hoped to experience!  An extra treat were the carols by the children and adults from the blind school.

I learned that my stollen I make tastes just like the stollen in Germany!  I was delighted.  Now I must master the terrific gingerbread.

We are very tired, but it is a good tired.   One is outside all day while visiting these markts.  I quickly learned that no one worries about their hair and that one wears a hat all day, a scarf and gloves.  Long underwear, wool socks, boots!  No earrings, they become little cold pieces of metal turning your earlobes into ice cubes!  We were already prepared for this, but I rarely wear a hat at home unless I am shoveling snow….and I got used to wearing a hat every day and even pulling my hood up over it!!

I bought a new parka from LL Bean before leaving and I loved the thought that it had fake fur around the hood.  I used to have one like that back in the ‘70’s, but I was wondering if it would look out of place now.   No one at home seems to wear them but I have always liked them.  It seems I certainly wore it to the right place as everyone had down coats and most had fur on the hoods!   It was perfect!  I was in style!

Aside from being outside all day, one walks and stands all day as all the food is at the stands with the very European system of having little tables everyone stands around.  Everyone just crowds in together and huddles with their meal or snacks and warms their hands with their mug of Gluhwein.   There is no gluhwein like the kind we had on this trip.  We buy it at home – even the kind sold in Nurnberg at the stands, but it certainly isn’t as tasty as what we had at the markts.   Some of the stands had cookie jars with bars of gingerbread to go with your gluhwein – there is just no other treat so tasty when your hands are cold and the snow is pouring around you. 

The snow was wonderful, the temperatures 27-34 degrees every day and Jim suffered in silence, although he did put on a face for one of the photos at the Salzburg markt when the snow was falling heavily!!   It was fun being able to be out in the snow (they put cinders on the sidewalks) and not have to worry about driving.  We walked, or in Austria took the bus to and from the station.

Most of the decorations and items I would have liked to buy were the sort I probably would have had trouble getting back into the country….real nuts, greens, twigs and things that probably would be frowned upon and truthfully, most of them were too big to carry home.  So, sadly I left them all there.  Also, these handmade delights are also very expensive.

Hopefully, there will be another time I can return to such a great time.  Now however, we are headed home to 60 degree weather.  Heaven only knows when I will get to wear my hat again, as I have grown to like it!!

More photos have been added, especially to Munich - and video will soon be on a CD

Friday, December 7, 2012 continued

Friday was a very busy day!  After breakfast we went shopping to have a look at just some of Munich’s exciting stores.  It was fun window shopping, looking at all the decorations and at the same time stopping at the Christmas stands. 

After walking through the big market, which ends in Marienplatz, we somehow managed to end up there at noon to see and hear the glockenspiel at the town tower.  Throughout this entire trip, we seemed to end up in the right place at the right time.

Then we were off to walk to the medieval markt, known as the Munchner Adventsspecktakel.  On the way, we ran into another small one, the Weihnachtsdorf markt at the Kaiserhof Residenz .   We did a tour of that one and then continued on our way.

At the Medieval Markt, all the people cooking and working the stands were dressed in middle ages costumes.  The stands were entirely different; one had Middle Ages dresses and costumes for men, another handmade bows and arrows, another handmade knives and sharps.   There were skins of all sorts of animals, as well as products made from them.  Best of all, were the food stands!!   All of the foods were being cooked or roasted in old time ways.  Many coal fires were burning under big grates, a pig was being roasted, chestnuts roasted and then I found a stand with a huge bubbling cauldron of oil.  Potato and breads were being fried in the oil.  This is one of the only times I had trouble reading the all-German menu on the board – BUT, I am very good at asking for help and one of the girls working there  knew a couple words of English and we figured out what I wanted.  She said, “flour or potato”  and I said potato and pointed to the oil.  Success!!  My potato pancakes were being fried while I watched them floating in the cauldron of oil.  Wow!   The most fantastic treat I think I ever had since I last ate one cooked at home by mother or aunt.

Jim did not partake of such a delight, so when we left to stroll back to the main Christkindlmarkt, he got another of those wonderful smoked pork sandwiches we had the other day, and we both got a mug of Gluhwein.   Seems a shame to miss a chance at buying stollen, so I bought a slice which is now in a tin in my suitcase!    I had just had some in Nuremberg, made in a shape of a star, so I thought I would save this piece for later!

We then went back to our hotel to shower and pack for our flight the next day.  Suitcases were made totally ready for our early flight, and then we were back out, headed back to the markt to hear the carolers at the town hall at 5:30 pm.  We arrived just as they started and Jim got some of it on video.  They were singing very traditional German songs with horn accompaniment, but after a few we decided to leave and go to eat.

We went to the Hofbrauhaus, where we have been several times before.  The photos will explain it all - but it is the biggest and best beer hall in Munich. 

To walk back to the hotel, we had to walk through the markt, which gave us a nice look at all the pretty stands before we went to bed.  And to end the evening, there were some snow flurries.   Alarm was set for 4:30 am!!

Friday, December 7, 2012

This morning we are off to shop on the pedestrian streets here in Munich, then later will go to the Medieval markt and the big Christkindl market.  Tonight our plans are to visit the Hofbrauhas to end our celebration.

We must get up in the wee hours of the morning to take the S-bahn to the airport, so this may be my last post until we are home.

Thursday, December 6, 2012

Today we walked to train station and took a 2=hour train to Salzburg, Austria.  After getting off the train, we went down the escalator at the station to the Localbahn train which took us to Oberndorf.  The chapel is about 1 mile away from the station, and eventually we couldn’t find our way, seem to lose track of the signs pointing to it.  A wonderful little boy showed us the way…he spoke English…or we might still be looking for it!

I copied a little about Oberndorf and the Stille Nacht chapel so I wouldn’t have to explain it.  See the following:
 

It was at the Romanesque parish church of St. Nikolaus in Oberndorf that the Christmas carol "Silent Night" was first performed in 1818. The story goes that Joseph Mohr had composed "Silent Night" as a poem in 1816, then on Christmas Eve 1818, Franz Xaver Gruber composed a melody to go with it.

The two creators were the first to perform it: Mohr sang tenor and played guitar, while Gruber sang bass. The reason for the guitar, and indeed for the performance of the song itself, is said to be that the organ was not working that night.

TheSilent Night Memorial Chapel, which stands on the original site of the St. Nikolaus Church, was consecrated on August 15, 1937, after 13 years of construction

It was great seeing the same place that I watch on webcam on Christmas Eve when they have a big celebration to sing Silent Night.  It was one of the highlights of the trip for me.  Soon after coming out of the chapel and museum, it started to snow and didn’t stop all day and evening!!

We returned to Salzburg station and took a bus into the old town to the markt.   We had a great time, ate more sausages and had gluhwein in the snow and was surprised by a visit by St. Nikolaus who gave treats to the children.  And, as usual Krampus was there also – he is supposed to frighten children into being good, but Krampus is not a mean character but rather a humorous one.  One of the came after me hitting me with his tail, the other one grabbed me, took off my hat and messed up my hair.  I kept saying I’d be good, but I don’t think he understood English!

It was a beautiful time, many stands at the markt, but Austria seemed more commercial that the one in Nurnberg  and the one here in Munich.  Each is different however, and seem to have different things.

We ended the evening having a bite to eat at the train station..which is almost a small city in itself.

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Wednesday, December 5th

The hotel’s internet was out this morning.  They were working on it, and she told me it was ready as we were going to the train station.   So, yesterday’s post and this one will be done tonight, hopefully if I am still awake after our return.  We had a terrific breakfast and will take the 11:50 am train to Nuremberg.   The train ride is an hour and our tickets say we will leave Nuremberg to return to Munich at 8:27.  Nuremberg has Germany’s largest and most popular Christkindlmarkt, so we are expecting it be crowded. 

AND…..Nuremberg was fantastic!!  We were able to see the Christkindl give gifts to the children and we got to take her picture and adults got a postcard!!   The market was too wonderful to describe and it is late at night and we must get up early to catch the train to Salzburg.

We did watch a blind children’s choral group sing carols at the markt, and they were magnificent and I should mention, it started snowing during their performance. 

The whole Christmas markt experience is magical and the decorations are wonderful.  I hope to post some pictures either now, or perhaps on Friday….but Jim’s video will be the best description of the markts. 

Tomorrow, Salzburg, Austria and Oberndorf where Silent Night was sung the first time!!

Tuesday December 4th

We arrived at our hotel a bit later than expected.  Our flight into LHR ended with the pilot not being able to park because the automatic stairs that were supposed to connect to our plan broke down on the tarmac in front of us.  We sat with engines running while repairmen frantically worked to either get it to move out of the way so we could park, or move into place so we could get off the plane!!   Finally, they were moved out of the way so the pilot could park and we could get off.    Many flights in LHR just park on the tarmac and one walks down the steps and onto the buses which take you to the terminal.  Gone are the days when moved the stairs into place, they are all remote control these days!

When we arrived in Munich,  all of us passengers were waiting for luggage to come in and the sign kept saying it was delayed.  It seems they had hired a new firm to move bags from planes to terminal and that new firm did not have enough staff for all the planes that had just arrived!  Eventually we got our bags and took the S-Bahn (sort of a subway) into the city of Munich. 

We walkted to our hotel, the Cocoon.  It is great!!  It is a funky sort of place and our room is a cocoon.   The photos will explain it all.

After getting organized, we took a walk into the Marienplatz and the Christkindlmarkt.   Just beautiful and fantastic!  We had a mug of gluhwein and then also got a sandwich of hot Schinken (pork) to go with it.   The sign at the booth said it was “port”.  Good thing our German is better than that!     There were so many wonderful choices of food, and so many places to buy gluhwein.  I wanted a mug from each place!   We shall return there on Friday when we stay here in Munich all day.

Around 8 pm all of a sudden it started sleeting, which quickly turned to snow!   It was so beautiful!!  It didn’t last long, but long enough to make me happy walking through the market in the snow!   The markets did close around 8:30, and it seems the gluhwein stands stayed open as long as folks were drinking!  

CHRISTMAS MARKETS 2012

HO!  HO!  HO!  It's off to the Christmas Markets we go!! Thanks to British Aiways miles, we are going on a whirlwind 4 night trip to Germany and Austria, with flights and hotel covered by our miles. We will be staying in Munich, and will take to the train to Nuremberg and Salzburg, including a side trip to Oberndorf where Stille Nacht (Silent Night) was sung for the first time.

What is fun about this trip is that we have been to all of these places before (except for the little town of Oberndorf) so we know our way around, know where we like to eat, etc. We can just focus on the markets at each place, some cities having more than one.

Check our the web cams in Munich and Salzburg (where they are live) and next week watch for me waving and drinking my Gluwein (hot spiced wine) while eating sausages and gingerbread. Photos will be updated and loaded in on what I hope will be a daily basis.

Plans are already made to go to the Hofbrauhaus as soon as possible after the plane lands!!! I want to see the big tree in Marienplatz and then off to the Hofbrauhaus for refreshment!

Thoughts on Germany

The first thing have I have to say about Germany is that it is CLEAN.  Every place, everywhere is CLEAN.  In all of our hotels, you could have taken a Q-tip and cleaned corners with it and have it come back sparkling white.  Even ladies rooms in the smallest of places, were always sparkly and clean.  Everything had a shine to it.

 The second thing is that it is a much more economical place to travel than France or Italy.  Hotel rooms were lower priced and meals were the same. 

 Traveling on the roads there is similar to UK and Ireland in that you have to know the names of the towns in the direction you want to go.  Routes are marked on the motorways ("A" roads) but on the "B" roads, it is anyone's guess what the route number is - unless you stare down at the grass along the roadside.  Only then, you may see a small sign (much smaller than a mile marker in the US) that has the route number on it.  Best bet, just follow the voice on the Garmin.  We didn't use maps.  Took one again this time, next time will just leave them at home.  There were so many twists and turns and roundabouts and road changes going from Beilstein to Bacharach that even Jim said we would never have found it without GPS. 

 Audi’s drive faster than other cars.  If you see an Audi coming up behind you, get out of the way.  Jim doing the equivalent to 90 on the motorway, with Audi's flying by.....9 out of 10, it was always an Audi.  Our little Opel was a trouper, but no match for an Audi!  And, even though usually I pick the smallest car Avis has - this time I had upgraded to the next size due to plans to use the motorways.

 There is no sauerkraut like the sauerkraut in Germany and even in the Alsace region in France, where they call it simply cabbage - it is wonderful.

 Germans are like the Swiss, they do like their ice cream.  Sometimes difficult to find a place serving food during the day - one had to separate out all the Eis Cafe's.  Both men and women eating either big, really elaborate sundaes there or else eating their midday meal in a bakery with these fantastic pieces of cake or strudel.  Sweets are not Jim's favorite although he did eat an ice cream sundae of the first days we were there.

 I ate more fruit and fiber while in Germany than ever.  Wonder brown breads with all sorts of wonderful seeds, including nice, crunchy sunflower seeds.  Breads were crunchy on the outside, moist and wonderful on the inside.  Fresh fruit salads every day - big cherries, strawberries, pineapple...terrific!

The lunchmeat for breakfast is not our favorite.  I haven't had what we old folks in Baltimore call "summer baloney" in years.  I had it every morning in Germany, usually with tomatoes and also a soft or hard boiled egg.  Muselix was the second runner up, and like in Switzerland it cannot be beat.  Many nice things to eat, but the Germans really go for the lunch meat and cheeses - even Brie and Camenbert for breakfast.   And I guess it isn't surprising that no one eats lunch meat sandwiches for lunch!!!!  It is amazing to watch them eat.  First they go to the buffet and come back with a BIG bowl of fruit, then they go get a bowl of whatever sort of cereal and then it's the lunchmeat, cheeses and bread.....and then, they go for slices of cakes - more like pound cake than a coffee cake. 

Well, since the German's all eat like this and then consume beer all hours of the day - they also ride bikes!  They have serious bikes with big tires, many gears - and they ride all over the country.  If they aren't on their bikes, they are hiking - serious hikers, seen way out in the country. 

Every afternoon I felt myself being thirsty for a beer - didn't even mind what food came with it - started looking for my afternoon beer!!!

(The last of photos from England have been uploaded)

On the way home

Currently we are at 34,000 feet above the Atlantic Ocean and on our way home.

We left Bacharach and drove an uneventful hour to Frankfurt Airport, dropped off car at' Terminal 1 and took Skytrain to Terminal 2 for our flight to London Heathrow.  We were lucky there and had jet way attached to plane so all we had to do was walk right in to the Airbus.  So many times in these larger airports, one must take a bus  out to the tarmac where the plane is parked.

Flight to LHR was 1.5 hours, we landed, got our bags, went through immigration and had just passed through customs when my mobile phone rang - our taxi driver from Swan Cars wanting to tell us where to meet him.  It was all timed perfectly and 30 minutes or so afterwards we were at Ann's house around 2:30 PM.

It was very warm, near 80 and after saying hello we were sitting on her patio having a beer and immediately felt right at home.  We spent the next 3 days catching up and just relaxing, and since Ann & George had a previous engagement to attend a birthday party for a dear friend and neighbor - we were invited to attend as well.  It was our first English garden party - and was quite the experience.  It seems if you say "party"' women seem to get their best cocktail dresses out, their high heels and head off in fancy dress.  The men arrived in plaid shirts, jeans (some in shorts), carrying cases of beer and ready to drink!!  There was music playing, a dance floor at the back of the house - and lots of food.   There were burgers cooked on the grill and later little English sandwiches with different fillings and various salads.  Sandra, Ann's friend celebrating her birthday, was vegetarian and also had the best veggie burgers I have ever tasted.  We have nothing like them to compare at home.

One night we went to dinner at The Harvester, and then Ann & George had their wonderful Sunday afternoon barbque .  George always cooks chicken, burgers, and those wonderful little English bangers on the grill and Ann's sets out various salads, potatoes and other goodies.  Shortly after this wonerful meal, the George and Jim  had to take naps and Ann and I along with her son David watched TV.  Her other son Steven disappeared as too, probably napping as well.  We were all stuffed from a wonderful meal.  We drank beer, Shandy's (half beer/half lemonade), sherry and lemonade....and ate and ate!!  I might mention here that we do not have any sort of beverage in the USA that compares to the clear lemonade they use in these drinks.  It is also the mixer that is used with Pimm's and it is very sad that we don't have the proper mixer in the US.

Saturday morning Ann dropped us off in Walton to shop.  I've known Walton since I first met Ann, and it is amazing how much it has developed over the years.  It is no longer just a tiny village with small shops.  After looking around a picking up a few things we headed to Sainsbury's for my tea shopping trip.  I'm sure everyone will be happy to know that I now have a new supply of my favorite tea - 960 tea bags to be exact.  That should keep me happy for awhile.  Also picked up a pack of McVitties's biscuits coated with  milk chocolate.  I could have had 2 grocery carts full - and been barred from entering the USA with all my favorite English goodies that I would have liked to bring home.

We were also treated to George's wonderful fry up one morning.  Eggs, bacon, tomatoes, beans, and toast.  We certainly were treated royally and await the day they will come see us so we can return the favor.  Ann and I have known one another 50 years (scary thought) and I have been trying all that time to get her to come see us.  I do think we may be getting closer to the event and that we may see them before we are all old and gray!

We left their house this Monday at 1 pm, and after arriving at LHR went straight to the BA kiosk which wouldn't give us a seat or a boarding pass and printed out a slip for us to take the Flight Manager desk.  Uh-oh.  Well, no real queue there and within 15 minutes we did have seats and our boarding passes.  It seems this was the result of not having internet access at Ann's and not being able to check-in on line.  The woman at the desk actually had to call and get us seats, couldn't do it herself on her computer.  She said unfortunately, BA expects people to check in online.  They also over book flights.  She was very nice, understood of course that everyone doesn't have a computer over there.  And as our luck has it, Ann's son Steven does have a work iPhone but had so many cranks calls on it that his work had disconnected his old one and he had to wait a few days for his new number  - or else he could have helped  us check in.  And, the little town of Hersham and Walton do not have cyber cafes!    In the end, we are sitting here in our World Travler Plus seats, with the footrests, bigger seats and had a traditional English roast with potoatoes and beans for our meal - with a cloth napkin, real silverware and glass for our wine.  And, before that we had cocktails, and before that a warm cloth to wipe hands and face.  Hoping BA offers this seat again next for next year....as we don"t really want to spend the extra $$ or miles to do this again!  There are only 24 seats in this separate class....and we are sitting in front of the sardine class in the back.

Either later today or tomorrow I will add the rest of my photos and some thoughts on Germany. When you see this posted, you will know we are home, and I will be planning the trip for next year!

Last night in Germany

I just uploaded the last of our photos from Bacharach.  Due to being so excited about passing trains at dinner, I forgot to photograph our entrees.  I had the house specialty which is pork tenderloin and mushrooms with a garlic, herb Hollandaise made with Riesling wine and Jim had saddle of lamb in a succulent sauce.  After dinner, Jim went upstairs when Fatima called me over to talk.  She was so concerned and asked if room was clean and suitable since she didn't have a chance to check it first.  She showed me the 2012 award from TripAdvisor - which she was delighted to get.  I told her I'd give a good review for both  TripAdvisor and Rick.  Another of Rick's tour groups will be here in a couple days, and Rick himself will be here in July.  Fatima and Kurt have been here for 30 years now; and they are very hard working, and Kurt is a great cook.  He told me he must look older than he did 15 yrs ago...Fatima asked me if she looked older - I told her that us girls don't get old looking, just the men!    I was informed that our room, #10 was the "sunset room" - and that Kurt had made the sunset! She gave me a wonderful big chocolate bar and off I came upstairs.

We will get breakfast at 8 am; Fatima had even offered to make it earlier for us so we had plenty of time to get to the airport.  She said as long as we leave by 8:45 it will be good for our drive to Frankfurt Airport.  Of course, as luck has it, we return the car at one terminal, then have to take the shuttle to Terminal 2 where our BA flight will take us to London Heathrow.   We are parked right outside the front wall of the hotel - Fatima had a free parking ticket that someone gave her because they did not use all the days, so she gave it to us so we could keep the car near.  We will return it to her tomorrow so someone else can use the remaining time on it.  Check out their website: Hotel Kranenturm  where there is a photo of our hosts.

No time to write in the morning,  so we will be off to visit Ann & George in England.  No internet at their house, so I will not be back online until we return home on May 28th. At that time I will upload any additional photos and report in on our stay in Hersham.

Bacharach

Lots of winding roads and farms brought us to Bacharach.  We have stayed here before, arrived early and recognized Kurt the owner pulling up in his car.  He let us in and told us Fatima would be with us shortly.  We took a look out on the terrace (where we are going to have dinner) and  shortly Fatima showed up.  We haven't been here for about 14 years - and last time it was cold outside and we ate inside.  Kurt is the chef.   We couldn't remember the terrace.  We also found that much more of the town is open.  I suppose last time we were here very early in the season.

Since we were early, Fatima suggested we take a walk "downtown"  and have lunch.  Rooms were being cleaned, the Rick Steves "Best of Europe" tour folks had just left this morning. So, you will see what we saw - the whole town- in a few short photos!  Our room faces the Rhein, train tracks are below our window.  Trains go by aout every 10 minutes, both freight and passenger.  Windows close tighly and Fatima now has new little AC/ fans in the wall to bring in fresh air.  I love train spotting and this is truly wonderful.  Jim says he now knows why he forgot most things about Bacharach - he was trying to forget the trains!!

We are headed back out to shop, when we arrived, stores all closing for afternoon!

Another interesting note is that they now have wifi in the lobby and in the rooms "if you leave door open" Fatima said.  Little Dell Mini has done it again.  I'm at the far end of the room by the window (so I can spot trains) and I am pulling in a strong signal!  Good thing, because I was able to check in for our flight tomorrow and get better seats for the flight to London!!!

Leaving the Mosel, headed to the Rhine

We are leaving Beilstein this morning (about an hour's drive), headed for Bacharach.  We have been there before and are staying at the same hotel.  It is another very small village, but this time on the much bigger Rhein River.  Be in touch from there...

Beilstein Day 1

Too busy yesterday to write after we arrived.  Take a look at the photos and you will understand why!  The whole town is just what you see on the photos, a few hotels that all have restaurants, one little shop, one bus stop and one mailbox.  There is a ferry that will take pedestrians, bikes and cars across the river and well, then there are the swans.

One particular swan has her nest outside our hotel, the town has put up a barrier so no one bothers here.  She does pose for photos - and I was lucky enough to see her eggs.  You can see them communicate with one another.  Daddy swan had been across the river all day - then at sunset she started craning her neck and apparently calling him - he jumped in the water and swam over.  He let her take a swim and get settled back on the eggs - he chased away an intrusive dog.  Most folks have their dogs on leash, these folks had been in our restaurant and let their dog loose - they laughed, thought it was funny that Daddy swan had to get up, flap his wings and honk loudly to scare the dog.  We didn't like those people.  David at our hotel  said there will be baby swans in 2-3 weeks - long time to sit on eggs!!

As with the other family places we have stayed at, the same family members work night and day in the restaurant and hotel.  David, our host, told us his mother owns the hotel.  Pretty much all the hotels here are named Lipmann something or other, we are staying in the big one on the river, Haus Lipmann which was built in 1727.


Most people come here to hike or ride bikes - you can even rent bikes here.  We are a bit too lazy (or old and tired) for all that activity.  A ride in the car is always nice!


Rain was predicted but now has been cancelled, the sun is starting to come out.  If I can get Jim and his Kindle off the balcony before dinner (we just had breakfast!), we will take a ride along the river, or perhaps across the river on the ferry to ride down the other side.  Original plans were to visit Burg Eltz, a castle nearby.  It is a castle that Rick says is his favorite in all of Europe.  We know that the outside is in scaffolding for renovation, and we also know castles mean many steps and much walking straight uphill.  We have decided to skip it!

It is the Moselle River by the way (if you are in France); here in Germany it is the Mosel - so I have spelled it different ways.  After a bit one starts thinking in the other language - knodel instead of dumpling, etc.  Kuchen instead of cake.

Speaking of food, David told us he would reserve the same table for us tonight out on the terrace.  So, our plans for dinner are in place!

Opel goes to Beilstein

We had a great dinner in one of Rick's recommended restaurants.  Down a dark alley, up dark stairs....into what looked like a cave with all stone walls, candles burning in niches of the walls - it was beautiful.  Our food was great, the hostess and owner was great, however towards the end of our meal in came a swarm of 13 very loud tourists (English or Australian, not Americans).  When we first saw them we thought it was the Rick tour that is in town - we had met a couple earlier up at the peak of Merkur and then ran into them again in town.  But no, not American accents.  We could have sat there awhile longer, but left because of them yelling back and forth to one another.

I tried my luck at the casino - slot machines and peasants are sent to the basement - all very pretty grey granite on the way, but not the elaborate gold and chandeliers where the tables are located.  I tried my 10 euro on the penny machine.  What I found unusual (and somewhat disappointing) was that the machines are all the same ones we have at home!  All in English and only difference is the euro denomination.

There was a light rain last night and clouds this morning as we head to Beilstein.  Always cool in the mornings, but today it is supposed to be in high 70's again.  Beilstein is located on the Mosel River and I except to have internet there as well.  Funny, despite this hotel in Baden-Baden saying you needed to connect in lounges, I have been able to do so in our room thanks to my little Dell Mini.  Jim's Kindle won't connect and I saw a guy in the lounge with an Apple computer.  Mini has always been notorious for finding a connection....for which I am forever grateful!!!

Baden-Baden Day 2

Today we went on our own walking tour of the city (Rick's walking tour) and if you check out photos, you can see that this is really a beautiful town.  It is really a resort, not at all city like and one doesn't feel as if you are in a city.

There are the traditional spas and the more modern ones.  In the traditional ones, it is nudity all the way, and on some days, the sexes are separated, other days they are not.  One pays for as many hours as you wish and basically go from hot pool to hotter pool to even hotter pool....and then cold splashes, back scrubs, etc.  The brochures show young, pretty people....Rick mentions you can see silently aging bodies in the mist.   Judging from all the folks we've seen with towels, Jim would have been thrown out in 5 minutes for making wise cracks about fat, ugly people!!!

We did take a bus ride up to the highest peak, then a funicular, hoping to see insane paragliders jumping off.  Even though it was sunny below, it was misty and apparently not quite the right wind conditions.   A man riding up on the funicular was going to check out the site before jumping off at a future date.   It was definitely more fun sitting up there having a beer than contemplating jumping off.....

We returned to our room, taking a rest and then finishing a bottle of wine we had bought (where???) oh, in the vineyards yesterday!!!   Now we will head out to dinner, then off to the casino to try MY luck at a slot machine.  To play the tables (which we don't anyway) men can rent a tie and jacket for 11 euro so that they will be allowed in.  Peasants like us (aka budget travelers per Rick) have no dress code.  So, I shall see if I can win enough to pay for trip.  Ha ha ha.

A candle was lit in the Catholic church for the friends flying off to the west.....may your plane land safely and may your bags arrive with you!!!

Continuing in Black Forest to Baden-Baden

The last night at our hotel in Colmar we had a wonderful meal at our hotel.  Marc, owner of hotel is also the chef, no Michelin stars but has many Michelin awards.  This is only our 3rd time having a multiple course very French meal.  The first time was in Gigondas on our excellent adventure through the vineyards, the second was at the Jules Verne restaurant at the Eiffel Tower.  The meal was excellent and took us 3 hours to get through the multiple courses and the wine!  

This morning, we were on the road again after breakfast, headed first to the heart of the Black Forest to a town called Furtwangen where we visited the German clock museum.  Not only was it fantastic, but we had free parking and free entrance because today was a special museum day in the area.  We could have also visited the Black Forest museum in Triberg for free, but we chose to have lunch instead and look at all the touristy stores!

We arrived here in Baden-Baden at 3:30pm and were lucky enough to secure one of the last places to park in front of our hotel.  They have only 5 places, and charge 4 euros but it is great having car right here instead of up the road in a free lot.  Up the road is just that - this isn't really a hill town, but it sure acts like it.  One walks down steep hills, then walks up steps back to the top!

It is Sunday, we just went on a stroll long enough to check one or two squares out and I picked up dessert at a bakery.  We made reservations for dinner at 7:30,  to be sure we get a decent meal on a Sunday night at a good place.  A piece of cherry tarte was 2.20 euro at the bakery - much less expensive than one at restaurant and usually better tasting from a bakery.  And, I can eat it anytime I want later tonight!   We will stay in after dinner, and take the walking tour tomorrow of the town.  This is a beautiful spa town, very lazy, many cafes and just right for strolling and sitting and sipping beverage of your choice!

The hotel has two lobbies, one with internet access.  I'm sitting next to their big computer and router and my connection speed is LOW!  Photos will not load in a timely manner.  I am not going to sit here forever and wait for them to upload.  Cannot complain, this room is only 85 euros with breakfast and this nice parking lot right in front of the house!   We have a bottle of wine and some French rolls (oh my, guess now they are German rolls) and I prefer to be in our nice room rather than the lobby!!  Internet is available only from 8am to 9:30 (or you turn into a pumpkin.)

There are two churches closeby, one directly connected to this hotel and the bells ring every 15 mintes.  We just had a concert of bells a few minutes ago as it was 6 pm and time for the angelus.  Now someone is playing the organ and choir is singing.  We think it's great - others may hate it.

Off to have my glass of wine....!

Colmar Day 2 and the Route du Vin

After a quick breakfast of croissants and cafe creme, off we went to visit 3 towns on the Route du Vin (the wine road).  We visited Riquewihr, Kayserburg and Eguisheim.  We did wine tasting at a couple of vineyards and had 4 bottles of wine in the back of the Opel!   There are vineyards everywhere, and even grape vines growing in gardens among the flowers.  Lunch we had in Eguisheim before our drive back to Colmar.  Jim had a hamburger with French beef, while I had a Baba au Rhum with strawberries.  Somehow I have to fit in my fancy desserts!!!

Taking a rest now, windows open, it is sunny and 68 degrees today.  While I'm writing this, there is a man out on the street playing an accordion - all sounds very French!  Birds singing and chirping loudly - heard my favorite cuckoo birds when out in the country side of the vineyards.

Epinal and Colmar

Exciting ride to Epinal through the Alps, up and down through many switchbacks.  I took us about 2 hours in all, scenery exciting with many villages and lakes.  The cemetery was beautiful, rhododenrons in bloom.  I expected to be told where to go to see Rob's name on the wall, but never to be greeted the way we were.  Once they know you are next of kin, they actually take you to the spot, the man in charge, Andy, sort of a curator I guess (and a veteran) took an American flag and French flag and marked the part of the wall.  The girl working there took a photo and then printed out a remembrance card with that photo.  They gave me the flags and also a packet of other information.
Andy said that since Rob was in the 3rd Infantry division that he had seen a lot of fighting and had 4 D-days: North Africa, Sicily, Anzio and the south of France.  He also said he had 2 Purple Hearts and had been wounded in battle.  Most of this I did not know.  He was the younger of 3 boys from my father's previous marriage.  My brother Frank is still going strong in his 80's.

Two more hours of driving up and down the Alps, through tight, twisty turns took us to Colmar.  This hotel as did our last, has a cark park in the back.  We walked the town, getting lost a couple of times - it twists and turns and goes around in circles - no walking around the block or taking short cuts!  The hotel is called Hotel les Tetes, in an historic building built in 1609.  It previously was built by a famous merchant and winemaker.  It is now a hotel and restaurant and is so popular that when we arrived in the afternoon it was too late for reservation for dinner!  We made reservation for Saturday night instead.

Lunch was tarte flambe - with crust so thin it was like crisp, thin tissue paper!  Very light, very tasty!  Check out photos!

The owner of the hotel, Mme. Rohfritsch recommended 2 restaurants to us, and after walking around we decided on Chez Hansi, a traditional Alsation place.  When our hotel called for reservations, they too were already full!  We were disappointed when we were called to tell of this sad situation but took a walk looking for another place to eat.  Just so happened we walked by and asked at Chez Hansi and they had a table!   There was a steady stream of folks coming to the door seconds after we arrived and they were all turned away!!  Our waitress told us that folks previously at our table had to leave early for the woman to attend some acitivity - so good for us!!   Dinner was magnificent and I had the sauerkraut and fish meal that Josef, the chef at our favorite restaurant at home had recommended.  Well, the sauerkraut is the French version of it and truly a meal not to be missed!!

On the road to Epinal Cemetery and Memorial

After breakfast we shall be leaving to drive into France to Epinal before heading to Colmar.  Last night I received an email from hotel in Colmar wanting to confirm our reservation for this Fri and Sat night.  It was marked "urgent".  Yes, what would one do without a computer (or smart phone) and wi-fi??  One would have had their room cancelled for sure.  We are finding most places connected even if they don't mention it.  For some hotels, it is not a selling point I suppose and this trip, I was more interested in finding hotels with free parking.  Unlike last years trip to France, we have not paid 1 euro for parking, except at Linderhof Castle.

Will be back, hopefully connected in France!!

Staufen

Beautiful drive, up and down winding mountain roads, through little villages, farms with cows, and then vineyards.
The photos say it all - this is only a tiny little town with a ruined castle up on the hill above the vineyards.  Any green you see in the hills are grapes!
We will splurge for dinner in the restaurant here at the hotel, a rather fancy fine dining candlelit place.  Interesting enough, the check in for the hotel is in the kitchen and one of the chefs went outside to show us where to park!
After breakfast tomorrow we head to the cemetery at Epinal, France; and after a quick visit and maybe lunch, we will head to Colmar for 2 nights on the France side of the Alsace before returning to the Black Forest.

Leaving Bavaria

This morning as we leave Fussen, we are leaving Bavaria and headed for the Black Forest.  Sunny and in the '50's - really pleasant.  The rain is over.

Next stop: Staufen.

Fussen Day 3 - and the Tirol road trip

There was an occasional flurry this morning when we headed out on our roap trip.  First we went to Weiskirsche, a church out in a meadow.  We were lucky enough to arrive at the end of the mass - complete with choir singing.  Very nice and since you weren't allowed to take video or photos during mass, of course we did!!!  I lit a candle for a special friend in WV an then we headed to Oberammergau (home of the famous Passion Play).  While we there it really started snowing and then the higher in elevation we went, the more it snowedl  Oberammergau is just another town, we didn't spend much time there although I did stop at a bakery to get a cherry turnover.  It was cold, snowy, and we thought we would get a cup of coffee too, BUT, the girl had to close the shop for lunch, so we weren't allowed to have coffee.  I thought we were in Germany, not Belgium!

So, we drove off and on our way to Ettal to visit the monastery.  Benedictine monks still live there.  Moving on, we drove to Linderhof Castle, another home of Mad King Ludwig II.  Yes, he was crackers.  We found out today his younger brother Otto also had been "sent to the madhouse"'  We are lovin' Ludwig's life story.  He was crazy!  Before touring the castle though, we had to stop for lunch at the cafe on grounds.  Then while waiting for our turn for the tour, we took some photos of the garden.  Ludwig lived there alone, never had any visitors and slept all day and stayed up all night.  Vampire.  I think he was a vampire!!!!!

After Linderhof, we took the long way home in the falling snow around Plansee (a beautiful long lake), through twisty, winding mountain roads.  At this point we had actually crossed the border into Austria and continued through Reutte, Austria before heading back across the border into Germany and our home in Fussen.

We didn't get home until after 5pm and it was still snowing.  We had dinner in our hotel tonight and after a few errands after breakfast tomorrow, we will be headed to a little town named Staufen, 3.5 hours west of here.

Fussen Day 2 - King's Castle Day

Writing this after a beautiful sunny day beneath the Alps, spent at Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein Castles, the first home of King Ludwig I and the second of his son, King Ludwig II who only lived a short time at his own designed Neuschwanstein before the government officials came to meet him with a psychiatrist and took him away.  Strangely, he was found drowned in a lake the next day.  Mystery! to this day.  Certainly sound like Mad King Ludwig, as he is known, was bumped off.

We rode in (2 miles from hotel) and parked.  Took our ticket reservation (provided by the hotel) and picked up our tickets.  For each castle, you are assigned a time for the English speaking tour.  One goes to Hohenschwangau first, a short "10 minute walk" - straight up into heaven.  Panting and thinking, "here were are",  we were encountered with oodles of steps to get up into the castle rooms.  No photos allowed in either castle - so, can't provide an inside peek.

One walks downhill (hooray!) back to the castle grounds where one can either ride a shuttle bus or take a horse and carriage.  It was recommended by our hotel (and Rick) that we take bus up and horses down.  For one thing, the bus can go higher and is cheaper (1.80 euro, horses 6 euro) and the bus drops one off at St. Mary's Bridge where one can walk across the valley and get a wonderful photo of Neuschwanstein.   I had no intention of doing it and just sent Jim.  However, I managed to creep inch by inch and these are my photos you will see!!!  Can't believe I did it!

After the bridge, one walks downhill (very steep) to the castle, takes the tour after climbing up hundreds of steps, then walks downhill to the horses and takes a peaceful ride down.  Our driver whistled to his horses, before he even left, basically telling them it was time to go to work.  Here and there on the way down, he'd give them a whistle or two.  He also cursed at folks who walked in front of the horses (fools I'd day) and let out a loud burp!  Quite the character.

After arrival at the bottom of the hill - time for beer and white sausages!!   Later we drove back to the hotel.
Now, the expected storms that are going across Europe have arrived.  Raining with the following prediction for tomorrow:  Evening light rain followed by a mix of rain and snow overnight. Low 34F. Winds W at 10 to 15 mph. Chance of precip 80%.  We brought warm clothes, but what I brought wasn't quite that warm, so up in the hills I bought a fleece jacket for 25 euros.  It's very nice and will keep me warm tonight and tomorrow.  This is what the locals call basically "the final  cold day  of winter".  Jim talked to woman at the truck stop who made her food and we also talked to the fellow here at the hotel - and they both told us the same story.


So, we are getting ready to go eat.  We have been sitting in this very nice room since we got back, just had a little bottle of Franconian wine we bought in Rothenburg.  Now we will look at restaurant next door, or else return to our own hotel restaurant where we ate last night.  No need to walk around in pouring rain.


We decided to go next door to dinner and it was fabulous.  Comfort food on a cold rainy night.  See photos.  Wi-fi connection at night is the pits, I think their bandwidth is poor for so many users.  We are having an early evening, it's 8:45 pm to prepare for tomorrow.  

Fussen Day 1

We have arrived!    We are settled in and now going out to explore.  This is true Bavaria/Tirol country beneath the Alps.  Photos have been updated, on the way here we stopped at Dinkelsbuhl for a look around.  It is another cute little walled town, but not quite as nice as Rothenburg.

On the way, we drove part of the way on the A7 & A8, the autoroutes, and the rest on the two lane road B17, which is also known as the Romantic Road.  On the way, we stopped at a "truck stop" for sandwiches.  Fun, out in the country side and 2 big sandwiches, a beer and soda (for the driver) was only 10 euro.  Amazing.

We spent the evening having dinner at our hotel, then took a stroll around town.  Nice, pretty and any mountains you see in the background are the Alps.  Just beautiful.

Put an update at end of Rothenburg also'

Rothenburg

Written on May 14, 2012 but there was no internet!


Today after breakfast we took a taxi to Avis Rental, a sort of mysterious place.  I had a problem  finding its actual location and no one in Nüremberg, including the taxi driver was clear on exactly where it was located.  Google and many different maps were no help, even the Avis web site.  He did get us to the general area and we were able to spot it.  We are now have wheels - an Opel.

With the help of little Garmin, and the hotel owner's direction, we drove right to the front door of our hotel in an hour and a half.  Cars are not allowed in this little walled city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, but you can drive in if you have a hotel reservation.   We met Herr Hocher, owner of Hotel Spitzweg (which was built in 1535 and only has 10 rooms) and he assisted Jim in getting the car parked  in the back of the hotel.   Jim said apparently German men can be bossy too as Herr Hocher told me to go in and sit down as he directed and told Jim how to park the car.  He's a very funny man, when I  first walked in was outside and followed me in.  He asked me if we were from Oklahoma and then asked me "doesn't your husband talk to old people?" as he tried to engage Jim who was sitting in the car and he wouln't respond.  So, he had me take him out to meet Jim!!  He's quite an amusing character.

We are still in Franconia but have now entered the land of German cuteness.  Check out the photos.  Great shopping to be done here, wonderful Christmas shops, teddy bear shops and anything else you could possibly image.  We also visited and bought a couple bottles of Franconian white wine from a store that belongs to the actual vintners.

Lunch was a bowl of soup at a sunny table.  Liver dumpling soup for the German girl and Jim had Hungarian goulash soup.   Around 50 degrees here, however, one has a duty to sit outside and drink beer.  It simply has to be done.

I also had a Schneeballen covered with cinnamon sugar - this is traditional Rotherburg item.  Rick Steves says they are awful, but they are great.  The poor soul is from the west coast and has never had fried dough I suppose.  They are similar to strips of pie crust dough rolled into a big baseball looking type thing and taste similar to crunchy fried dough.

Tonight we are going on the Night Watchman's tour which we missed the last time we were here as many restaurants stop serving by the time the tour is over (9pm).   I had wanted to eat at Altfranische Weinstube am Klosterhof and Herr Hocher told us they do serve late, and to walk over there to make a reservation.  Rick Steves said it seems designed for gnomes to celebrate their anniversaries as it's a very dark pub, lit by candelight in a 600 year old building.  We initially had trouble finding it, but when I spied the little door - I just knew it was the right place.  Small door for the gnomes.  When we walked inside during the day, it was like walking into pitch black.  A woman took our reservation - she wasn't a gnome.

**Addendum:  we had a terrific meal in the above noted restaurant.  In the whole big room there were only 2 small electric lamps, the rest was candles - with 2 candles on each table.  The meal was excellent - and such great atmosphere.  The whole meal and wine was only 25 euros.  Eating in Germany is very economical!  Afterwards, we took one more stroll around before heading for out hotel for the night'

Nurenberg Day 2

This morning we went to breakfast (another feast) , then took the tram out to the Nazi Documentation Center and Rally Grounds.  Yesterday it was 84 degrees, a storm came in last night and this morning it was 60!!!  At least it was not raining and at least it wasn't hot like yesterday.  Cooler weather is much better for lots of walking and hill climbing!  The Nazi site covered 4 miles.

The Nazi Documention Center is an educational center to teach about it all came about.  It was an incredible leaning experience.  Afterwards we went out to the Rally Grounds.  I could write all day and not describe the horror stories.  Rick Steves describes it as mass hypnosis and the rally grounds held up to 250,000 people during his demonstrations..  One has to see the films they show (from the 1930's) to even get a small idea of what was happening.  The story is called Fascination and Terror.

We spent the afternoon back in the walled city, seeing things we missed yesterday.  Sunday we will get a taxi after breakfast to pick up our car at Avis and drive 1.5 hr. to Rothenburg.  We will have no internet access there as we are staying in an house that was built in the 1500's.  The owner's son-in-law has a hotel nearby and we could go there to use internet, but don't think we will have time.  We have been to Rothenburg before and there are things we don't want to miss this time.  Rothenburg is also a walled city.

So, our adventure continues and most likely I will be doing an update on Monday after we arrive in Fussen.

Nurenberg Day 1

We had a 2 hour train ride this morning, and arrived here at 12:30.  The hotel was right inside the wall, across from the train station, no more than 5 minute walk.
We spent the day walking around and new photos are in the album.  This is a beautiful town, and very popular at Christmas time with the Christkindlmarkt.  I want to come back in the winter when it snows and is cold!

It is very late, we had great time today and one of us is already asleep.  Internet was slow with getting photos uploaded, so this will be short.

Hotel is fantastic, had free drinks earlier on the terrace, met a very nice young lady named Michaela who was our waitress, told us history of the town which has existed since 950.  The walls were here way before the town!   Afterwards we ate dinner in a beer garden on Konigstrasse, the main drag.

Looking forward to a great breakfast tomorrow and then we are off to the Nazi grounds which is a tram ride away.

Leaving Frankfurt

It has been reported that email notifier is not working.  Sorry folks, you will have to check back daily!!

Note that Viking boat in Frankfurt photos is one of those fantastic Viking Cruise long boats.  It was incredible to see!  Now I want to take a Viking river cruise.

Had traditional German breakfast and I tried not to eat everything.  Chocolate croissants and I passed them by for good German dark bread.  Neither of us will be needing lunch!

A relaxing morning, train station is across the street and we will be going there shortly for our 2.5 hour ride to Nurenberg.  I already have tickets which I bought at home from DB (Deutsch Bahn) train site at special sale price of 49 euros for the two of us!!

Next stop.....Nurenberg.

Frankfurt Day 1

Our flight to London was late leaving BWI because it was late coming in, as a result we arrived late in London. Plus, landing at LHR is never done quickly.

The pilot circled for 20 minutes prior to taking 20 more minutes to descend, land and park us where buses would take us to the terminal. We landed at 10am and were supposed to be boarding our flight to Frankfurt at 10:30, so we figured, no way!

British Airways rocks! On entering the terminal there was a British Airways woman standing there with a big sign that said FRANKFURT Flight 904. She gave us big orange papers that said EXPRESS - and said "follow me". We litterly did a fast jog aftter her to the Fast Track security, she waited for us and then took us to the gate! Amazing - British Airways remains our favorite airline! One can wait in line for a long time for security at Heathrow, and then the gates are miles apart - we both feel like we have already lost 5 lbs.

Arrived in Frankfurt and I turned on my UK mobile phone to call home, and wow, a text message from BA. Basically it said we are sorry to tell you that even though you got the plane, your bags didn't, please go to baggage service desk. Ah, we walked up and the woman knew who we were and told us bags were on the flight that would arrive at 4:30 pm and we should have them late this afternoon. That's good and we are looking forward to seeing them. Meanwhile, we have anything important (pills, electronics and clean underwear, in our little carry on bags. Even my makeup - I don't have to go out looking like a hag.

And, we are glad to be here, instead of arriving on the 4:30 plane ourselves. We took the shuttle from Terminal 2 to Terminal 1 where one is able to catch the big DB trains or local regional trains. We took the S-Bahn 3 stops, got off and walked across the street to our hotel. Basically, the airport is 10 mintues from the airport by the regional S-Bahn.

Some new photos were added after we took a walk and had dinner. On return to hotel, still no bags. Nice girl here at hotel called BA for us with our tracking number, and it seems out bags are at the airport but there is some sort of red tape where the airport has to officially release our bags to BA. We are dead tired, one of us is asleep and snoring. The other one is headed downstairs shortly at 10pm and the girl is going to try and call them again.


What is not convenient is that tomorrow at 10:18 am we have train tickets to Nurenberg. So, the saga continues......

Some new photos were added after we took a walk and had dinner. On return to hotel, still no bags. Nice girl here at hotel called BA for us with our tracking number, and it seems out bags are at the airport but there is some sort of red tape where the airport has to officially release our bags to BA. We are dead tired, one of us is asleep and snoring. The other one is headed downstairs shortly at 10pm and the girl is going to try and call them again.

And the good news is.....she brought the bags up to our room at 10:45pm.  It was just a custody issue with the airport and BA comes through again!!! Phew!

Germany 2012 - the homeland

It's that time of year again.  This year it's Germany and the Alsace region of France.  We will be flying into Frankfurt with a one night layover before getting the train to Nürnberg.  Plan then is as follows:
Nürnberg - 2 nights and  pick up the car on way out of town
Rothenburg - 1 night
Füssen - 3 nights
Staufen - 1 night
Colmar (France) - 2 nights
Baden-Baden - 2 nights
Beistein - 2 nights
Bacharach - 1 night
AND 3 nights in Hersham, Walton-on-Thames, Surrey, England at Ann & George's home.

Webcams are minimal in Germany, but I did add a few.   Some of the towns we are going to are too small for a traffic light, let alone a webcam.  I also added some links to provide more information on the towns if anyone is interested. 

And please remember for those of you who do not sign into Blogger and make comments as "anonymous" - please put your initials or first name so I know who is making the comment!!!

Photos will be added along the way....right now they are "under construction".  You should be able to click on the photo and be taken to the album.  Much testing has been going on to assure you will be able to see them!!

And best of all, for those of you who manage to lose the URL for this blog while I am away, you can now sign up so that when I add a new post or photos, you will receive an email.  How nifty is that?!   On the top right column, put in your email address, it will notify me, I will OK it and then you will receive an email to confirm that you really want it.  Easy as can be!