May 24, 2012

Last night in Germany

I just uploaded the last of our photos from Bacharach.  Due to being so excited about passing trains at dinner, I forgot to photograph our entrees.  I had the house specialty which is pork tenderloin and mushrooms with a garlic, herb Hollandaise made with Riesling wine and Jim had saddle of lamb in a succulent sauce.  After dinner, Jim went upstairs when Fatima called me over to talk.  She was so concerned and asked if room was clean and suitable since she didn't have a chance to check it first.  She showed me the 2012 award from TripAdvisor - which she was delighted to get.  I told her I'd give a good review for both  TripAdvisor and Rick.  Another of Rick's tour groups will be here in a couple days, and Rick himself will be here in July.  Fatima and Kurt have been here for 30 years now; and they are very hard working, and Kurt is a great cook.  He told me he must look older than he did 15 yrs ago...Fatima asked me if she looked older - I told her that us girls don't get old looking, just the men!    I was informed that our room, #10 was the "sunset room" - and that Kurt had made the sunset! She gave me a wonderful big chocolate bar and off I came upstairs.

We will get breakfast at 8 am; Fatima had even offered to make it earlier for us so we had plenty of time to get to the airport.  She said as long as we leave by 8:45 it will be good for our drive to Frankfurt Airport.  Of course, as luck has it, we return the car at one terminal, then have to take the shuttle to Terminal 2 where our BA flight will take us to London Heathrow.   We are parked right outside the front wall of the hotel - Fatima had a free parking ticket that someone gave her because they did not use all the days, so she gave it to us so we could keep the car near.  We will return it to her tomorrow so someone else can use the remaining time on it.  Check out their website: Hotel Kranenturm  where there is a photo of our hosts.

No time to write in the morning,  so we will be off to visit Ann & George in England.  No internet at their house, so I will not be back online until we return home on May 28th. At that time I will upload any additional photos and report in on our stay in Hersham.

Bacharach


Lots of winding roads and farms brought us to Bacharach.  We have stayed here before, arrived early and recognized Kurt the owner pulling up in his car.  He let us in and told us Fatima would be with us shortly.  We took a look out on the terrace (where we are going to have dinner) and  shortly Fatima showed up.  We haven't been here for about 14 years - and last time it was cold outside and we ate inside.  Kurt is the chef.   We couldn't remember the terrace.  We also found that much more of the town is open.  I suppose last time we were here very early in the season.

Since we were early, Fatima suggested we take a walk "downtown"  and have lunch.  Rooms were being cleaned, the Rick Steves "Best of Europe" tour folks had just left this morning. So, you will see what we saw - the whole town- in a few short photos!  Our room faces the Rhein, train tracks are below our window.  Trains go by aout every 10 minutes, both freight and passenger.  Windows close tighly and Fatima now has new little AC/ fans in the wall to bring in fresh air.  I love train spotting and this is truly wonderful.  Jim says he now knows why he forgot most things about Bacharach - he was trying to forget the trains!!

We are headed back out to shop, when we arrived, stores all closing for afternoon!

Another interesting note is that they now have wifi in the lobby and in the rooms "if you leave door open" Fatima said.  Little Dell Mini has done it again.  I'm at the far end of the room by the window (so I can spot trains) and I am pulling in a strong signal!  Good thing, because I was able to check in for our flight tomorrow and get better seats for the flight to London!!!


Leaving the Mosel, headed to the Rhine

We are leaving Beilstein this morning (about an hour's drive), headed for Bacharach.  We have been there before and are staying at the same hotel.  It is another very small village, but this time on the much bigger Rhein River.  Be in touch from there...

May 23, 2012

Beilstein Day 1

Too busy yesterday to write after we arrived.  Take a look at the photos and you will understand why!  The whole town is just what you see on the photos, a few hotels that all have restaurants, one little shop, one bus stop and one mailbox.  There is a ferry that will take pedestrians, bikes and cars across the river and well, then there are the swans.

One particular swan has her nest outside our hotel, the town has put up a barrier so no one bothers here.  She does pose for photos - and I was lucky enough to see her eggs.  You can see them communicate with one another.  Daddy swan had been across the river all day - then at sunset she started craning her neck and apparently calling him - he jumped in the water and swam over.  He let her take a swim and get settled back on the eggs - he chased away an intrusive dog.  Most folks have their dogs on leash, these folks had been in our restaurant and let their dog loose - they laughed, thought it was funny that Daddy swan had to get up, flap his wings and honk loudly to scare the dog.  We didn't like those people.  David at our hotel  said there will be baby swans in 2-3 weeks - long time to sit on eggs!!

As with the other family places we have stayed at, the same family members work night and day in the restaurant and hotel.  David, our host, told us his mother owns the hotel.  Pretty much all the hotels here are named Lipmann something or other, we are staying in the big one on the river, Haus Lipmann which was built in 1727.


Most people come here to hike or ride bikes - you can even rent bikes here.  We are a bit too lazy (or old and tired) for all that activity.  A ride in the car is always nice!


Rain was predicted but now has been cancelled, the sun is starting to come out.  If I can get Jim and his Kindle off the balcony before dinner (we just had breakfast!), we will take a ride along the river, or perhaps across the river on the ferry to ride down the other side.  Original plans were to visit Burg Eltz, a castle nearby.  It is a castle that Rick says is his favorite in all of Europe.  We know that the outside is in scaffolding for renovation, and we also know castles mean many steps and much walking straight uphill.  We have decided to skip it!

It is the Moselle River by the way (if you are in France); here in Germany it is the Mosel - so I have spelled it different ways.  After a bit one starts thinking in the other language - knodel instead of dumpling, etc.  Kuchen instead of cake.

Speaking of food, David told us he would reserve the same table for us tonight out on the terrace.  So, our plans for dinner are in place!


May 22, 2012

Opel goes to Beilstein

We had a great dinner in one of Rick's recommended restaurants.  Down a dark alley, up dark stairs....into what looked like a cave with all stone walls, candles burning in niches of the walls - it was beautiful.  Our food was great, the hostess and owner was great, however towards the end of our meal in came a swarm of 13 very loud tourists (English or Australian, not Americans).  When we first saw them we thought it was the Rick tour that is in town - we had met a couple earlier up at the peak of Merkur and then ran into them again in town.  But no, not American accents.  We could have sat there awhile longer, but left because of them yelling back and forth to one another.

I tried my luck at the casino - slot machines and peasants are sent to the basement - all very pretty grey granite on the way, but not the elaborate gold and chandeliers where the tables are located.  I tried my 10 euro on the penny machine.  What I found unusual (and somewhat disappointing) was that the machines are all the same ones we have at home!  All in English and only difference is the euro denomination.

There was a light rain last night and clouds this morning as we head to Beilstein.  Always cool in the mornings, but today it is supposed to be in high 70's again.  Beilstein is located on the Mosel River and I except to have internet there as well.  Funny, despite this hotel in Baden-Baden saying you needed to connect in lounges, I have been able to do so in our room thanks to my little Dell Mini.  Jim's Kindle won't connect and I saw a guy in the lounge with an Apple computer.  Mini has always been notorious for finding a connection....for which I am forever grateful!!!

May 21, 2012

Baden-Baden Day 2


Today we went on our own walking tour of the city (Rick's walking tour) and if you check out photos, you can see that this is really a beautiful town.  It is really a resort, not at all city like and one doesn't feel as if you are in a city.

There are the traditional spas and the more modern ones.  In the traditional ones, it is nudity all the way, and on some days, the sexes are separated, other days they are not.  One pays for as many hours as you wish and basically go from hot pool to hotter pool to even hotter pool....and then cold splashes, back scrubs, etc.  The brochures show young, pretty people....Rick mentions you can see silently aging bodies in the mist.   Judging from all the folks we've seen with towels, Jim would have been thrown out in 5 minutes for making wise cracks about fat, ugly people!!!

We did take a bus ride up to the highest peak, then a funicular, hoping to see insane paragliders jumping off.  Even though it was sunny below, it was misty and apparently not quite the right wind conditions.   A man riding up on the funicular was going to check out the site before jumping off at a future date.   It was definitely more fun sitting up there having a beer than contemplating jumping off.....

We returned to our room, taking a rest and then finishing a bottle of wine we had bought (where???) oh, in the vineyards yesterday!!!   Now we will head out to dinner, then off to the casino to try MY luck at a slot machine.  To play the tables (which we don't anyway) men can rent a tie and jacket for 11 euro so that they will be allowed in.  Peasants like us (aka budget travelers per Rick) have no dress code.  So, I shall see if I can win enough to pay for trip.  Ha ha ha.

A candle was lit in the Catholic church for the friends flying off to the west.....may your plane land safely and may your bags arrive with you!!!

May 20, 2012

Continuing in Black Forest to Baden-Baden


The last night at our hotel in Colmar we had a wonderful meal at our hotel.  Marc, owner of hotel is also the chef, no Michelin stars but has many Michelin awards.  This is only our 3rd time having a multiple course very French meal.  The first time was in Gigondas on our excellent adventure through the vineyards, the second was at the Jules Verne restaurant at the Eiffel Tower.  The meal was excellent and took us 3 hours to get through the multiple courses and the wine!  

This morning, we were on the road again after breakfast, headed first to the heart of the Black Forest to a town called Furtwangen where we visited the German clock museum.  Not only was it fantastic, but we had free parking and free entrance because today was a special museum day in the area.  We could have also visited the Black Forest museum in Triberg for free, but we chose to have lunch instead and look at all the touristy stores!

We arrived here in Baden-Baden at 3:30pm and were lucky enough to secure one of the last places to park in front of our hotel.  They have only 5 places, and charge 4 euros but it is great having car right here instead of up the road in a free lot.  Up the road is just that - this isn't really a hill town, but it sure acts like it.  One walks down steep hills, then walks up steps back to the top!

It is Sunday, we just went on a stroll long enough to check one or two squares out and I picked up dessert at a bakery.  We made reservations for dinner at 7:30,  to be sure we get a decent meal on a Sunday night at a good place.  A piece of cherry tarte was 2.20 euro at the bakery - much less expensive than one at restaurant and usually better tasting from a bakery.  And, I can eat it anytime I want later tonight!   We will stay in after dinner, and take the walking tour tomorrow of the town.  This is a beautiful spa town, very lazy, many cafes and just right for strolling and sitting and sipping beverage of your choice!

The hotel has two lobbies, one with internet access.  I'm sitting next to their big computer and router and my connection speed is LOW!  Photos will not load in a timely manner.  I am not going to sit here forever and wait for them to upload.  Cannot complain, this room is only 85 euros with breakfast and this nice parking lot right in front of the house!   We have a bottle of wine and some French rolls (oh my, guess now they are German rolls) and I prefer to be in our nice room rather than the lobby!!  Internet is available only from 8am to 9:30 (or you turn into a pumpkin.)

There are two churches closeby, one directly connected to this hotel and the bells ring every 15 mintes.  We just had a concert of bells a few minutes ago as it was 6 pm and time for the angelus.  Now someone is playing the organ and choir is singing.  We think it's great - others may hate it.

Off to have my glass of wine....!

May 19, 2012

Colmar Day 2 and the Route du Vin

After a quick breakfast of croissants and cafe creme, off we went to visit 3 towns on the Route du Vin (the wine road).  We visited Riquewihr, Kayserburg and Eguisheim.  We did wine tasting at a couple of vineyards and had 4 bottles of wine in the back of the Opel!   There are vineyards everywhere, and even grape vines growing in gardens among the flowers.  Lunch we had in Eguisheim before our drive back to Colmar.  Jim had a hamburger with French beef, while I had a Baba au Rhum with strawberries.  Somehow I have to fit in my fancy desserts!!!

Taking a rest now, windows open, it is sunny and 68 degrees today.  While I'm writing this, there is a man out on the street playing an accordion - all sounds very French!  Birds singing and chirping loudly - heard my favorite cuckoo birds when out in the country side of the vineyards.

Epinal and Colmar


Exciting ride to Epinal through the Alps, up and down through many switchbacks.  I took us about 2 hours in all, scenery exciting with many villages and lakes.  The cemetery was beautiful, rhododenrons in bloom.  I expected to be told where to go to see Rob's name on the wall, but never to be greeted the way we were.  Once they know you are next of kin, they actually take you to the spot, the man in charge, Andy, sort of a curator I guess (and a veteran) took an American flag and French flag and marked the part of the wall.  The girl working there took a photo and then printed out a remembrance card with that photo.  They gave me the flags and also a packet of other information.
Andy said that since Rob was in the 3rd Infantry division that he had seen a lot of fighting and had 4 D-days: North Africa, Sicily, Anzio and the south of France.  He also said he had 2 Purple Hearts and had been wounded in battle.  Most of this I did not know.  He was the younger of 3 boys from my father's previous marriage.  My brother Frank is still going strong in his 80's.

Two more hours of driving up and down the Alps, through tight, twisty turns took us to Colmar.  This hotel as did our last, has a cark park in the back.  We walked the town, getting lost a couple of times - it twists and turns and goes around in circles - no walking around the block or taking short cuts!  The hotel is called Hotel les Tetes, in an historic building built in 1609.  It previously was built by a famous merchant and winemaker.  It is now a hotel and restaurant and is so popular that when we arrived in the afternoon it was too late for reservation for dinner!  We made reservation for Saturday night instead.

Lunch was tarte flambe - with crust so thin it was like crisp, thin tissue paper!  Very light, very tasty!  Check out photos!

The owner of the hotel, Mme. Rohfritsch recommended 2 restaurants to us, and after walking around we decided on Chez Hansi, a traditional Alsation place.  When our hotel called for reservations, they too were already full!  We were disappointed when we were called to tell of this sad situation but took a walk looking for another place to eat.  Just so happened we walked by and asked at Chez Hansi and they had a table!   There was a steady stream of folks coming to the door seconds after we arrived and they were all turned away!!  Our waitress told us that folks previously at our table had to leave early for the woman to attend some acitivity - so good for us!!   Dinner was magnificent and I had the sauerkraut and fish meal that Josef, the chef at our favorite restaurant at home had recommended.  Well, the sauerkraut is the French version of it and truly a meal not to be missed!!

May 18, 2012

On the road to Epinal Cemetery and Memorial

After breakfast we shall be leaving to drive into France to Epinal before heading to Colmar.  Last night I received an email from hotel in Colmar wanting to confirm our reservation for this Fri and Sat night.  It was marked "urgent".  Yes, what would one do without a computer (or smart phone) and wi-fi??  One would have had their room cancelled for sure.  We are finding most places connected even if they don't mention it.  For some hotels, it is not a selling point I suppose and this trip, I was more interested in finding hotels with free parking.  Unlike last years trip to France, we have not paid 1 euro for parking, except at Linderhof Castle.

Will be back, hopefully connected in France!!


May 17, 2012

Staufen

Beautiful drive, up and down winding mountain roads, through little villages, farms with cows, and then vineyards.
The photos say it all - this is only a tiny little town with a ruined castle up on the hill above the vineyards.  Any green you see in the hills are grapes!
We will splurge for dinner in the restaurant here at the hotel, a rather fancy fine dining candlelit place.  Interesting enough, the check in for the hotel is in the kitchen and one of the chefs went outside to show us where to park!
After breakfast tomorrow we head to the cemetery at Epinal, France; and after a quick visit and maybe lunch, we will head to Colmar for 2 nights on the France side of the Alsace before returning to the Black Forest.

Leaving Bavaria

This morning as we leave Fussen, we are leaving Bavaria and headed for the Black Forest.  Sunny and in the '50's - really pleasant.  The rain is over.

Next stop: Staufen.

May 16, 2012

Fussen Day 3 - and the Tirol road trip


There was an occasional flurry this morning when we headed out on our roap trip.  First we went to Weiskirsche, a church out in a meadow.  We were lucky enough to arrive at the end of the mass - complete with choir singing.  Very nice and since you weren't allowed to take video or photos during mass, of course we did!!!  I lit a candle for a special friend in WV an then we headed to Oberammergau (home of the famous Passion Play).  While we there it really started snowing and then the higher in elevation we went, the more it snowedl  Oberammergau is just another town, we didn't spend much time there although I did stop at a bakery to get a cherry turnover.  It was cold, snowy, and we thought we would get a cup of coffee too, BUT, the girl had to close the shop for lunch, so we weren't allowed to have coffee.  I thought we were in Germany, not Belgium!

So, we drove off and on our way to Ettal to visit the monastery.  Benedictine monks still live there.  Moving on, we drove to Linderhof Castle, another home of Mad King Ludwig II.  Yes, he was crackers.  We found out today his younger brother Otto also had been "sent to the madhouse"'  We are lovin' Ludwig's life story.  He was crazy!  Before touring the castle though, we had to stop for lunch at the cafe on grounds.  Then while waiting for our turn for the tour, we took some photos of the garden.  Ludwig lived there alone, never had any visitors and slept all day and stayed up all night.  Vampire.  I think he was a vampire!!!!!

After Linderhof, we took the long way home in the falling snow around Plansee (a beautiful long lake), through twisty, winding mountain roads.  At this point we had actually crossed the border into Austria and continued through Reutte, Austria before heading back across the border into Germany and our home in Fussen.

We didn't get home until after 5pm and it was still snowing.  We had dinner in our hotel tonight and after a few errands after breakfast tomorrow, we will be headed to a little town named Staufen, 3.5 hours west of here.

May 15, 2012

Fussen Day 2 - King's Castle Day

Writing this after a beautiful sunny day beneath the Alps, spent at Hohenschwangau and Neuschwanstein Castles, the first home of King Ludwig I and the second of his son, King Ludwig II who only lived a short time at his own designed Neuschwanstein before the government officials came to meet him with a psychiatrist and took him away.  Strangely, he was found drowned in a lake the next day.  Mystery! to this day.  Certainly sound like Mad King Ludwig, as he is known, was bumped off.

We rode in (2 miles from hotel) and parked.  Took our ticket reservation (provided by the hotel) and picked up our tickets.  For each castle, you are assigned a time for the English speaking tour.  One goes to Hohenschwangau first, a short "10 minute walk" - straight up into heaven.  Panting and thinking, "here were are",  we were encountered with oodles of steps to get up into the castle rooms.  No photos allowed in either castle - so, can't provide an inside peek.

One walks downhill (hooray!) back to the castle grounds where one can either ride a shuttle bus or take a horse and carriage.  It was recommended by our hotel (and Rick) that we take bus up and horses down.  For one thing, the bus can go higher and is cheaper (1.80 euro, horses 6 euro) and the bus drops one off at St. Mary's Bridge where one can walk across the valley and get a wonderful photo of Neuschwanstein.   I had no intention of doing it and just sent Jim.  However, I managed to creep inch by inch and these are my photos you will see!!!  Can't believe I did it!

After the bridge, one walks downhill (very steep) to the castle, takes the tour after climbing up hundreds of steps, then walks downhill to the horses and takes a peaceful ride down.  Our driver whistled to his horses, before he even left, basically telling them it was time to go to work.  Here and there on the way down, he'd give them a whistle or two.  He also cursed at folks who walked in front of the horses (fools I'd day) and let out a loud burp!  Quite the character.

After arrival at the bottom of the hill - time for beer and white sausages!!   Later we drove back to the hotel.
Now, the expected storms that are going across Europe have arrived.  Raining with the following prediction for tomorrow:  Evening light rain followed by a mix of rain and snow overnight. Low 34F. Winds W at 10 to 15 mph. Chance of precip 80%.  We brought warm clothes, but what I brought wasn't quite that warm, so up in the hills I bought a fleece jacket for 25 euros.  It's very nice and will keep me warm tonight and tomorrow.  This is what the locals call basically "the final  cold day  of winter".  Jim talked to woman at the truck stop who made her food and we also talked to the fellow here at the hotel - and they both told us the same story.


So, we are getting ready to go eat.  We have been sitting in this very nice room since we got back, just had a little bottle of Franconian wine we bought in Rothenburg.  Now we will look at restaurant next door, or else return to our own hotel restaurant where we ate last night.  No need to walk around in pouring rain.


We decided to go next door to dinner and it was fabulous.  Comfort food on a cold rainy night.  See photos.  Wi-fi connection at night is the pits, I think their bandwidth is poor for so many users.  We are having an early evening, it's 8:45 pm to prepare for tomorrow.  

May 14, 2012

Fussen Day 1

We have arrived!    We are settled in and now going out to explore.  This is true Bavaria/Tirol country beneath the Alps.  Photos have been updated, on the way here we stopped at Dinkelsbuhl for a look around.  It is another cute little walled town, but not quite as nice as Rothenburg.

On the way, we drove part of the way on the A7 & A8, the autoroutes, and the rest on the two lane road B17, which is also known as the Romantic Road.  On the way, we stopped at a "truck stop" for sandwiches.  Fun, out in the country side and 2 big sandwiches, a beer and soda (for the driver) was only 10 euro.  Amazing.

We spent the evening having dinner at our hotel, then took a stroll around town.  Nice, pretty and any mountains you see in the background are the Alps.  Just beautiful.

Put an update at end of Rothenburg also'

Rothenburg

Written on May 14, 2012 but there was no internet!


Today after breakfast we took a taxi to Avis Rental, a sort of mysterious place.  I had a problem  finding its actual location and no one in Nüremberg, including the taxi driver was clear on exactly where it was located.  Google and many different maps were no help, even the Avis web site.  He did get us to the general area and we were able to spot it.  We are now have wheels - an Opel.

With the help of little Garmin, and the hotel owner's direction, we drove right to the front door of our hotel in an hour and a half.  Cars are not allowed in this little walled city of Rothenburg ob der Tauber, but you can drive in if you have a hotel reservation.   We met Herr Hocher, owner of Hotel Spitzweg (which was built in 1535 and only has 10 rooms) and he assisted Jim in getting the car parked  in the back of the hotel.   Jim said apparently German men can be bossy too as Herr Hocher told me to go in and sit down as he directed and told Jim how to park the car.  He's a very funny man, when I  first walked in was outside and followed me in.  He asked me if we were from Oklahoma and then asked me "doesn't your husband talk to old people?" as he tried to engage Jim who was sitting in the car and he wouln't respond.  So, he had me take him out to meet Jim!!  He's quite an amusing character.

We are still in Franconia but have now entered the land of German cuteness.  Check out the photos.  Great shopping to be done here, wonderful Christmas shops, teddy bear shops and anything else you could possibly image.  We also visited and bought a couple bottles of Franconian white wine from a store that belongs to the actual vintners.

Lunch was a bowl of soup at a sunny table.  Liver dumpling soup for the German girl and Jim had Hungarian goulash soup.   Around 50 degrees here, however, one has a duty to sit outside and drink beer.  It simply has to be done.

I also had a Schneeballen covered with cinnamon sugar - this is traditional Rotherburg item.  Rick Steves says they are awful, but they are great.  The poor soul is from the west coast and has never had fried dough I suppose.  They are similar to strips of pie crust dough rolled into a big baseball looking type thing and taste similar to crunchy fried dough.

Tonight we are going on the Night Watchman's tour which we missed the last time we were here as many restaurants stop serving by the time the tour is over (9pm).   I had wanted to eat at Altfranische Weinstube am Klosterhof and Herr Hocher told us they do serve late, and to walk over there to make a reservation.  Rick Steves said it seems designed for gnomes to celebrate their anniversaries as it's a very dark pub, lit by candelight in a 600 year old building.  We initially had trouble finding it, but when I spied the little door - I just knew it was the right place.  Small door for the gnomes.  When we walked inside during the day, it was like walking into pitch black.  A woman took our reservation - she wasn't a gnome.

**Addendum:  we had a terrific meal in the above noted restaurant.  In the whole big room there were only 2 small electric lamps, the rest was candles - with 2 candles on each table.  The meal was excellent - and such great atmosphere.  The whole meal and wine was only 25 euros.  Eating in Germany is very economical!  Afterwards, we took one more stroll around before heading for out hotel for the night'



May 13, 2012

Nurenberg Day 2

This morning we went to breakfast (another feast) , then took the tram out to the Nazi Documentation Center and Rally Grounds.  Yesterday it was 84 degrees, a storm came in last night and this morning it was 60!!!  At least it was not raining and at least it wasn't hot like yesterday.  Cooler weather is much better for lots of walking and hill climbing!  The Nazi site covered 4 miles.

The Nazi Documention Center is an educational center to teach about it all came about.  It was an incredible leaning experience.  Afterwards we went out to the Rally Grounds.  I could write all day and not describe the horror stories.  Rick Steves describes it as mass hypnosis and the rally grounds held up to 250,000 people during his demonstrations..  One has to see the films they show (from the 1930's) to even get a small idea of what was happening.  The story is called Fascination and Terror.

We spent the afternoon back in the walled city, seeing things we missed yesterday.  Sunday we will get a taxi after breakfast to pick up our car at Avis and drive 1.5 hr. to Rothenburg.  We will have no internet access there as we are staying in an house that was built in the 1500's.  The owner's son-in-law has a hotel nearby and we could go there to use internet, but don't think we will have time.  We have been to Rothenburg before and there are things we don't want to miss this time.  Rothenburg is also a walled city.

So, our adventure continues and most likely I will be doing an update on Monday after we arrive in Fussen.


May 11, 2012

Nurenberg Day 1

We had a 2 hour train ride this morning, and arrived here at 12:30.  The hotel was right inside the wall, across from the train station, no more than 5 minute walk.
We spent the day walking around and new photos are in the album.  This is a beautiful town, and very popular at Christmas time with the Christkindlmarkt.  I want to come back in the winter when it snows and is cold!

It is very late, we had great time today and one of us is already asleep.  Internet was slow with getting photos uploaded, so this will be short.

Hotel is fantastic, had free drinks earlier on the terrace, met a very nice young lady named Michaela who was our waitress, told us history of the town which has existed since 950.  The walls were here way before the town!   Afterwards we ate dinner in a beer garden on Konigstrasse, the main drag.

Looking forward to a great breakfast tomorrow and then we are off to the Nazi grounds which is a tram ride away.

Leaving Frankfurt

It has been reported that email notifier is not working.  Sorry folks, you will have to check back daily!!

Note that Viking boat in Frankfurt photos is one of those fantastic Viking Cruise long boats.  It was incredible to see!  Now I want to take a Viking river cruise.

Had traditional German breakfast and I tried not to eat everything.  Chocolate croissants and I passed them by for good German dark bread.  Neither of us will be needing lunch!

A relaxing morning, train station is across the street and we will be going there shortly for our 2.5 hour ride to Nurenberg.  I already have tickets which I bought at home from DB (Deutsch Bahn) train site at special sale price of 49 euros for the two of us!!

Next stop.....Nurenberg.




May 10, 2012

Frankfurt Day 1

Our flight to London was late leaving BWI because it was late coming in, as a result we arrived late in London. Plus, landing at LHR is never done quickly.

The pilot circled for 20 minutes prior to taking 20 more minutes to descend, land and park us where buses would take us to the terminal. We landed at 10am and were supposed to be boarding our flight to Frankfurt at 10:30, so we figured, no way!

British Airways rocks! On entering the terminal there was a British Airways woman standing there with a big sign that said FRANKFURT Flight 904. She gave us big orange papers that said EXPRESS - and said "follow me". We litterly did a fast jog aftter her to the Fast Track security, she waited for us and then took us to the gate! Amazing - British Airways remains our favorite airline! One can wait in line for a long time for security at Heathrow, and then the gates are miles apart - we both feel like we have already lost 5 lbs.

Arrived in Frankfurt and I turned on my UK mobile phone to call home, and wow, a text message from BA. Basically it said we are sorry to tell you that even though you got the plane, your bags didn't, please go to baggage service desk. Ah, we walked up and the woman knew who we were and told us bags were on the flight that would arrive at 4:30 pm and we should have them late this afternoon. That's good and we are looking forward to seeing them. Meanwhile, we have anything important (pills, electronics and clean underwear, in our little carry on bags. Even my makeup - I don't have to go out looking like a hag.

And, we are glad to be here, instead of arriving on the 4:30 plane ourselves. We took the shuttle from Terminal 2 to Terminal 1 where one is able to catch the big DB trains or local regional trains. We took the S-Bahn 3 stops, got off and walked across the street to our hotel. Basically, the airport is 10 mintues from the airport by the regional S-Bahn.

Some new photos were added after we took a walk and had dinner. On return to hotel, still no bags. Nice girl here at hotel called BA for us with our tracking number, and it seems out bags are at the airport but there is some sort of red tape where the airport has to officially release our bags to BA. We are dead tired, one of us is asleep and snoring. The other one is headed downstairs shortly at 10pm and the girl is going to try and call them again.


What is not convenient is that tomorrow at 10:18 am we have train tickets to Nurenberg. So, the saga continues......

Some new photos were added after we took a walk and had dinner. On return to hotel, still no bags. Nice girl here at hotel called BA for us with our tracking number, and it seems out bags are at the airport but there is some sort of red tape where the airport has to officially release our bags to BA. We are dead tired, one of us is asleep and snoring. The other one is headed downstairs shortly at 10pm and the girl is going to try and call them again.

And the good news is.....she brought the bags up to our room at 10:45pm.  It was just a custody issue with the airport and BA comes through again!!! Phew!







May 03, 2012

Germany 2012 - the homeland

It's that time of year again.  This year it's Germany and the Alsace region of France.  We will be flying into Frankfurt with a one night layover before getting the train to Nürnberg.  Plan then is as follows:
Nürnberg - 2 nights and  pick up the car on way out of town
Rothenburg - 1 night
Füssen - 3 nights
Staufen - 1 night
Colmar (France) - 2 nights
Baden-Baden - 2 nights
Beistein - 2 nights
Bacharach - 1 night
AND 3 nights in Hersham, Walton-on-Thames, Surrey, England at Ann & George's home.

Webcams are minimal in Germany, but I did add a few.   Some of the towns we are going to are too small for a traffic light, let alone a webcam.  I also added some links to provide more information on the towns if anyone is interested. 

And please remember for those of you who do not sign into Blogger and make comments as "anonymous" - please put your initials or first name so I know who is making the comment!!!

Photos will be added along the way....right now they are "under construction".  You should be able to click on the photo and be taken to the album.  Much testing has been going on to assure you will be able to see them!!

And best of all, for those of you who manage to lose the URL for this blog while I am away, you can now sign up so that when I add a new post or photos, you will receive an email.  How nifty is that?!   On the top right column, put in your email address, it will notify me, I will OK it and then you will receive an email to confirm that you really want it.  Easy as can be!

June 23, 2011

Thoughts on travel in France

We love France, we love the south of France, we love Nice!! It is a quieter country than Italy where everyone shouts at one another. Nice of course being so near to the Italian border, is sort of half Italian and half French. One is just likely to be greated at a cafe by Buon Giorno and Bon Jour. After buying a quick lunch of pizza one day, as we left the young man said " merci" - when Jim said "grazie" to him, he gave a big smile and shook Jim's hand.

The French are very nice and can be very helpful. When Jim went to get car out of garage in Cassis, there seemed to be no way to pay. Our credit cards do not work with automated machines in most of Europe, their have adopted chip and pin cards, and it seemed this machine didn't take any bills either. A helpful woman in her car stopped to help and sent him to the second floor of the garage to the office. Someone along the line another woman stopped to ask if she could help. The man at the office took the parking ticket and said there was a special tourist rate and only charged 15 euro for 2 days!! A couple girls helped us figure out the machine for buying Metro tickets in Paris. Many very nice people.

Most people speak a little English, the few we found who didn't (one being the girl I bought train tickets from to go to Marseille) did fine with my bit of "train French" - simply knowing the words for roundtrip (aller-retour) and today (aujourd'hui).

When you get into the city, it is just like NYC. Get out of my way or I'll knock you over. Occasionally one says "pardon" or "excusez-moi" but mostly they are similar to New Yorkers in Time Square who ignore you. Try walking down the street to the crosswalk with your rolling luggage, carryon bag and purse or camera bag - young folks just stand in front of you and don't move. Of course, if they are speaking French, you know they live there - but others seem to do the same thing and they aren't speaking French. Of course the Germans are pushy and will get by, given my heritage, I almost knocked over a young lady standing in my way on the way to the airport bus.

Food and wine are great even in the smallest of cafe's. No such thing as a greasy spoon or hole-in-the wall. We did discover in Nice that one place had warm croissants - so we ate our breakfast there! Hotels all offer breakfast, which includes cereals, cold cuts and eggs (hard boiled) and croissants but we could get coffee and croissants for the price of one breakfast. Besides, we didn't really feel we needed all that food in such warm weather.

Hot and sunny everywhere. Even though temperatures in the mid to high 70's, it felt much hotter, the sea was warm. Cool breezes on the sea coast but not chilly, even at night.

There are many tolls on the highway, but the roads are in excellent condition. Pretty easy getting from one place to another. Having little Garmin most of the time was a success - we never opened a map and I was sorry I carried those heavy Michelin maps over there. What little Nuvi Garmin did not tell you is that your hotel was on the side of the street where the bus lane was and you couldn't drop your bags off!! Good thing this was in Nice, we just returned the car and walked to the hotel. At least we already knew our way around there.
In Cassis, Nuvi tried to send us into the sea - but she didn't know that after a certain time in the morning they closed the road to traffic!! We found the back of the hotel, I walked around, and Michelle who I had talked to book the room told me to bring the bags around and where to park the car a short distance away. So, we did get there!! In Villefranche, we rode around with Nuvi "recalculating" several times - only because what looked like a dead end was a tiny road down to the sea!! We finally got it right when we stopped and I got out to look over the wall and see the rest of the little road!! Parking in small resort like Villefranche costs as much as NYC!! But, it was a breeze being able to throw luggage in the car and just drive off. If one takes a train there, there is a long walk downhill along the seacoast (which is OK, we've done that before) but it is an impossible climb up the hill back to the train station and requires a taxi ride. We have decided we like having a car!

So now, we are off to planning trip for next year! I want to go to Germany, but not sure Jim can tolerate 2 weeks of being around other people like me. He did say he would try! If not there, we may do the west coast of France, visit Bordeaux wine region and San Sebastian/Bilbao region where France borders Spain. That would be another foodie trip!! Stay tuned....

On the way home....

We had our last breakfast at our favorite cafe this morning - fresh hot croissants and cafe creme. Then after going back to hotel to pick up our bags, we walked a few blocks to the number 98 bus stop for the trip to the airport. 4 euros each, great deal!! In previous times leaving Nice we had to be at airport very early and had to pay for a taxi to get there. Not only was this later flight great in that aspect, but we also got to see Nice airport open and active! We had time to sit and get a drink and sandwich before our flight left. It was a 2 hr flight to LHR.

We actually landed 15 minutes early in London which gave us a good 2 hrs to connect to our next flight. Ha! What we had time for was to me to run into Harrods to get our Christmas pudding, to use les toilets and then make our way to our next flight. Terminal 5 is huge and after much walking and then a electric train ride out to the new satellite terminal C we had a few quick minutes to by a coffee at Starbucks before boarding the flight. Sadly, I did not have enough time to browse in my favorite English shops in Terminal 5.

Our flight left sort of on time, we had started to be pushed out and then were pushed backed in for a vapor lock in the gas tank. Pilot said it would take only a few minutes, and he was right. So now, instead of being a few minutes earlier landing, we will arrive on time.

We have already had our gin & tonic, our meal, tea and dessert and I'm writing this before I take a nap. I'm watching Rango, a Johnny Depp movie where his voice is the voice of a lizard. I like it!!

Battery running low on little Mini…..

Next entry will be a "thoughts on France"' Stayed tuned.

Nice Day 4

We decided not to go to beach today. Spent time wandering around all our favorite spots, sitting and people watching, enjoying our lbreakfast of warm croissants and cafe creme, and our last salad and wine lunch. We had to stay in town near the hotel today so we could check-in on line and get the best seats possible for flights home. So, we started organizing and cramming all of our possessions into our suitcases. Check-in accomplished, we were back out strolling around. We had our last Nice meal at a restaurant where we ate the last time - another Italian one. Ah, one more nightime stroll and it was off to bed! In the morning, we shall have plenty of time for those wonderful croissants one last time, and then we will be off to get the bus to the airport.

June 19, 2011

Nice Day 3

Here we are at the Beau Rivage last night for drinks (oops, aperitifs) before dinner.

Other photos will be in album. We had a great time, started off with our aperitifs at 7:30 at the beach bar and didn't leave our table until after 11pm. Ah, this was something we were really looking forward to and it was just as great as the last time we were there. We got home well after midnight - and there were more people in the streets and out and about than there were at noon. It was Saturday night in Nice and a great time!! One almost hated to come in, but we were tired!


Shopping/sightseeing in the old town this morning, then off to beach in the afternoon. We may be going over to the old town tonight - some of the areas are more Italian than others....Jim says we are going to "little Italy". Ravioli was first made here in Nice and there are tons of shops selling homemade ravioli all shapes and sizes and fillings. How wonderful to just go to the store and buy fresh ravioli!! Looking forward to eating some tonight - every place has Italian and French food. This is just the perfect place!!

June 18, 2011

Nice Day 2

Last night's dinner - we both had scampi and linguine with an Asian touch - and gelato later walking home.

Spent the morning wandering through some of our favorite spots, and looking in our favorite shops. Aside from the tram's arrival and Place Massena having a bit of a makeover, Nice is pretty much the same place.

This afternoon we went to the beach - my favorite beach in the whole world. Well, second favorite, as Vernazza's rocks are really my favorite. Nice is fantastic for the beach - NO sand. Marvelous. You can come to the beach, then walk and shop, go eat lunch, no sand sticking to you. If only I could take this beach to Ocean City!!! Check out the photo album!


Tonight we are going to our special dinner on the beach at the Beau Rivage. We have been there in the past and I hope the food is still as good because the view cannot be beat!




June 16, 2011

Nice Day 1



We are here in Nice! Yikes, traffic awful, bus lane in front of hotel so you couldn't stop. After circling the block we decided to ditch the car at Avis which is at the Gare SNCF (train station) and walk to our hotel, dragging our little rolling cases up the Avenue Jean Medecin and eventually to Hotel Lafayette . At least we know where we are from being here so many times in the past. We are both in one of our favorite places on earth. Hotel pictures of room will be done tomorrow after it's cleaned. We threw all our stuff around before I remembered to take a photo!



We have been to the old town, did some shopping already. Lunch was had at an Italian pizza place - we got to talk a little Italian. It was just a small place run by a couple Italians. We are very near the border to Italy. We sat on a bench just watch the sea, people on the beach and the flights going in Nice airport.



Meals are less expensive here and tonight we will eat well for less euros!! We are finished with the car and will take the bus or train if we decide to go to Monte Carlo/Monaco.

Villefranche Day 2

Woke up this morning to a Disney cruise ship in the harbor. Markets set up and all sorts of goings on so the cruise folks will buy, buy, buy. We even had to pay to park because I suppose the free parking area was used for buses to take them around!


We went to the beach today, then took a drive around Cap Ferrat - beautiful estates and villas - but tiny one lane roads (with 2 lane traffic). After a drive around the whole area we returned home. It was one of the reasons we wanted to have a car here - but too difficult to try and get anywhere. We came back and had salads (and wine) on the quai - and are now back on our balcony and our air conditioned room. Only in the high 70's but the sun is very hot. Nice breeze and just beautiful here.
****highlight of the evening was watching the Disney ship leave the port and tooting "When You Wish Upon A Star"........second highlight was dinner in our now favorite Villefranche cafe....we ate there last night too...and ate there the last time we were here. We have now dubbed Le Cosmos our favorite!

June 15, 2011

Villefranche Day 1

Breakfast in the garden and then in a few minutes will be off to Villefranche. Miss Garmin Nuvi, whose voice irritates Jim, will guide us right there. Best thing besides little Dell mini that I even bought!! And yes, you can change the voice, but they all irritate Jim. He does admit she is helpful and is so much easier than maps - which I wish I had not dragged along.
Next stop: Villefranche sur le Mer and supposedly free wi-fi!

We have arrived, took us awhile to find the hotel. We had stayed there before and one of us knew you could take the car to the front of it; of course, the driver was sure you couldn't. Nuvi's instructions were a bit difficult to follow - but eventually we ended up at front door of hotel - street was very teeny and windy down to the harbor - but the street was there!!!!!
We dropped off our bags and had salads on the quai - sitting here on this gorgeous balcony (check out the photos) while writing this. I am right at same spot where I saw Rod Stewart a few years ago - will keep my eye out for him!!

June 14, 2011



Last night we had seafood on the harbor. Mine was salted cod with mussels, carrots, green beans, egg and potato all with a big boil of aioli (garlic mayonnaise). Jim had frito misto -- fried tidbits of all sea creatures. A fine meal.

This morning, after breakfast on our terrace we were off to Plage de Pampelonne. To go to the beach Bridgitte Bardot made famous was on Jim's bucket list. We have now completed the adventure. The beaches are really beautiful, that whole area is gorgeous as we drove by in the car. We peasants parked at the public lot and went to the public beach. One needs reservations for the beach and lunch at the big places. We sat and watch people being brought in from their yachts by dinghy. Over head, helicopters were also bringing folks in for lunch. We stopped by the Monoprix after coming home and had our lunch on our terrace. Very sad. Tonight we go in town again for a bit of the even better good life!!

June 13, 2011

St. Tropez Day 1



We are here!! One and half hour drive from Cassis, and little Nuvi took us right to the driveway of the hotel!! Never even had to open a map. Free parking here and we are about 10 min walk to all the excitement at the harbor that you see here.We had lunch at the harbor, did a bit of looking in shops and then came back to the hotel and currently are having snacks and wine on our terrace. Tonight we will eat at the harbor and pick out a yacht....

Check out photos - some from Cassis have been uploaded and some for St. Tropez!

June 12, 2011

Cassis Day 2

We took a walk after breakfast, visited all the little shops and the market. There was this very small artsy market with paintings, handmade jewelry and the sort. The most beautiful flowers were there - and they were not real! I wanted to take them all home!!
Back to hotel to change and on the way to the beach I had ice cream cone. Well, it was sorbet actually - one scoop of cassis and one scoop of limoncello. I may have to go there for dinner! However, we were smart today and made a reservation for 9pm at the cafe we really wanted to eat at last night.
Pebble beach (whoo-hooo! No sand!) was great, water beautiful but bone chilling. We each got our feet wet anyway, after all, it is the Mediterranean Sea and one must do it.
We are back at hotel now - Jim on balcony reading the great Kindle - a wonderful creation as he did not have to drag tons of books along this trip. I'm sitting inside in front of the open french doors -- the view is just beyond belief.
To be continued - I feel an outing coming to the Grand Marnier crepe stand.
Later:
Ah yes, while Jim was napping I did go get a crepe.....and watched the woman sprinkle it with lots of Grand Marnier. My kind of snack.
Dinner was great, we both had fish soup and the fish which turned out to be grouper. Finished with Pannacotte with strawberry couolis for dessert.....and a free Limoncello on the house! Hey, what country is this???
To St. Tropez tomorrow!!

June 11, 2011

Cassis Day 1

There is no internet, no wifi here at the Hotel le Golfe. BUT, sitting on the harbor, our own sidewalk cafe right beneath us and the price of 110 euros a night make up for it.

This morning (Saturday) we took a short walk to Avis, trailing all our wordly possessions behind us. Off we went in our new ride (a 4-door Peugot) to Cassis which was only 30 minutes away. Our Garmin took us right to Cassis. Garmin Nuvi, herein further known as Nuvi, could get us to harbor, but cars were not allowed. As Rick said in "The Book", hotels were signed but hard to find. The roads are tiny, winding down to the harbor and all one way with many roundabouts. We felt like Chevy Chase in European vacation - just how many more times are we going around in the roundabout AND what Chevy didn't have was an irritating voice saying "recalculating". Eventually we got down to the harbor and right in back of our hotel. I walked around front - WOW - the hotel's sidewalk cafe sits right on the harbor and it was gorgeous! Jim took our bags in and we left them there until our room was ready. We took the car to the car park and there it will stay until we bail it out on Monday when we leave for St. Tropez. We surveyed the harbor, had lunch, checked out the beach and then headed back to our room.....and our balcony. We are still here - can't take our eyes off the view!
We were not sure of what time to eat, we can see all the cafe tables from our balcony and many tables were empty. We went out at 7:30 to shop for where we wanted to eat. Quickly we learned that we were out of luck due to not having a reservation. We finally found a cafe with good priced menu, not far from oour hotel. And, they were able to seat us. For 24 euro we had a 3 course meal. This was a cheaper menu, as one can also find 30 euro and higher menus. For the uninitiated "Menu" means what they use to call a fixed price meal. For one price you have your choise of various items for the 3 courses. All are written in French, but we can usually understand what we are getting and an occasional waiter who speaks as much English as I do Frfench will help assist with an item I can't figure out.
We have already decided not to take the boat ride tomorrow to the calanques. Seeing photos, well, sort of been there and done that in Capri last year. Everyone has them, and they all want you to pay and go see them. We saw them in Italy....and will skip doing it here. It will not only save a few euros but put us on the beach!! And there are many places to eat ice cream, plus the Grand Marnier crepe stand to keep me busy. Check out new photos.

June 10, 2011

Aix-en-Provence Day 3 (Marseille)

Took train to Marseille today after breakfast of croissant, tartine and cafe creme. Well, I had the tartine, Jim had the croissant. For those not familiar, tartine is nothing but a baguette with butter. Yummy.

We had a great time in Marseille, will put some photos in album. Hot and sunny here. Easy trip over on the train, walked to the harbor and walked some of the old back streets. We took the tourist train which takes you to the far parts of the harbor and then up to Notre Dame de la Garde. It sits high above the city - you can see if far away in some of the photos. The wrist on the baby Jesus that Mary is holding is 42 inches!! The whole statue weighs 9 tons. Incredible. Most of the back streets are grimey and questionable, but the tourist area around the harbor is quite nice. The harbor is HUGE and beautiful. We split a sandwich before hopping on the Metro to the train station and then coming home. Arrived back here around 5:30pm. We will have late night dinner here in Aix, again watching the sights on the Cours Mirabeau and then tomorrow we will be driving to Cassis, about 30 minutes from here. I'm not sure of internet connection there, but hey, we will be staying in a room over looking the harbor. The good life is really starting to begin!!

June 09, 2011

Aix-en-Provence Day 2

After our usual breakfast of croissants and cafe creme, we were off to the markets. We went to a big flower market, produce market and then to a clothing one which seemed to cover the whole Cours Mireabeau (the main street) . By the way, I always seem to get a real dislike for French women by this point. No matter what age, I don't think I saw one woman who wears a size larger than 2. It just isn't fair. So many cute things to buy, if you were a size 2. But, I did buy a pair of white Birkenstock sandals for 33 euros and a bar of local soap that smells like peaches!!

We had lunch today at a side walk cafe, I had a Grand Marnier crepe and Jim had one of those terrific pizzas with paper thin crust. Think I want to start making my own thin crusts at home. On the way back to the hotel, I bought a purse. Oh, I think I bought a sac - am I correct Tom?? It's so terrific I have decided to use it for the rest of the trip. I look totally out of place with my one from home - I now will look like every other woman on the street with my big sac tucked under my arm. To further blend in I'm trying desperately to shrink to a size 2, so far no success - and I've only been looking at all the pastries in the windows. I did sample the local famous pastry calissons d' Aix and was glad I did because it wasn't anything special and I was glad I didn't buy a bag of them! I will save calories for something yummy!

June 08, 2011

Aix-en-Provence Day 1

A few more photos added to Avignon. Rained last night into early morning. Blue skies and sun is shining this morning. Now we are off to Aix - 1 hr. 15min bus ride. See you there!
Hello from Aix - arrived on the bus and eventually found our hotel. Probably would have less confusing if we got off at the right stop (train station), instead of going around corner to the bus station. But , eventually we found our way. Check out the room in the photo albums, I started to add a few from our orientation walk! We had pizza for lunch - I had slice of 3 cheeses, emmenthal, goat and I forget the third. It was terrific. They serve it folded over in 2, wrapped in paper and then off you go to a bench! Jim did the mushroom. We walked a bit, found the Monoprix, went downstairs to the grocery part and Jim picked out 2 bottles of wine while I found some fresh duck foie gras. Next was a baquette and then we headed home. I have a great big old fashioned bath tub -- couldn't find any cool soaps or bath salts. I will definitely be on the search tomorrow!! Later we will head to the Cours Mirabeau to eat at a cafe. Will take more photos then....it's a very pretty tree lined street. There are teeny streets and squares all over....much to check out tomorrow, plus the markets.

June 07, 2011

Avignon Day 2 continued

Check out the photo links on the right. There are some photos of Paris and Avignon. Fairly decent wi-fi connection here, got some uploaded while I could. Sunny and bright, we visited the Palace of the Popes and the big park on top of the hill - had to be two thousand steps to get there. There is a little tourist train that takes you up there but we couldn't find it and rather than waste time looking, off we went up the steps! Definitely worth it for the view and to see the St. Benezet Bridge or what there is left of it! Bridge has been knocked down several times by icy floods - they gave up fixing it. It was built in 1171. A little old. They have a nursey rhyme about it. After lunch in the park, then then easy walk down! We have walked most of Avignon's streets, some of them pedestrian free - it is a very small walled city. Back to hotel, my char duties out of the way - I wash our underwear/shirts every afternoon and they are dry by morning. Particularly nice having a terrace to dry them on - we are on first floor - terrace is actually a balcony of sorts. Tonight we are headed out to dinner in one of the small squares and tomorrow we will get the bus to Aix.

Avignon Day 2

This is the Palace of the Popes. At one time, Avignon was actually the Vatican! Wonderful meal last night, in a little restaurant recommended by hotel's Sylvie. She's great, we are scrapping plans to go by train tomorrow to Aix and going by bus. She's very helpful. Today we will see take the tour of the Palace and see all the sights there are to see.....and eat and drink wine of course. Wine is wonderful, no additives to muck it up!

June 06, 2011

Avignon Day 1




We finished our last night in Paris by eating at our favorite cafe in the Montmarte. Haughty, isn't it? We laughed, because since it is where we ate the last time we figured it must be our favorite and usual spot! Better than TV, sitting there watching the folks who walked by while sipping on our wine. I had incredible chicken with mushroom sauce and Jim had incredible veal with a mustard sauce. Prices were really good, considering where we were and the entertainment provided by the passersby. We finished eating around 10:30 pm and on the way to the Metro you could see the lightning flashing across the city below. As we got to the bottom of the hill, it started raining. However, quickly we got one the Metro stops and rode home in dry comfort!! So far, the rain has not ruined any of our plans.


This morning, it started raining while we were having our croissants and coffee, but by the time we went back to the hotel, got our bags and left, it had stopped! Had one transfer on the Metro to take our to Gare de Lyon. Pretty painless and we are currently on the TGV zipping along to the south, and in 2.5 hours we will arrive at the Avignon TGV station. It is not in the center of town, so we will have to ride the shuttle bus into the center of the city. Our hotel is a short walk away from where the bus drops us off.
Meanwhile I shall sit here and play video games to pay the time. I have comfy little table and even a place to plug in little Dell Mini - all on my second class ticket! We stopped and bought a sandwich and drink and will have lunch before reaching Avignon.

We are here in Avignon - sunny, wifi only works on our little terrace. Very old building with thick walls! Cute little walled town......

June 05, 2011

Paris Day 3

This morning after cafe creme and croissants and une tartine for me, off we went to the sewers. Interesting, smelly but that's about it. Tom, read about it in a book - it was that thrilling to be there in person! Then we took a tree shaded walk from there along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower and Trocedaro. After lunch in the Champs du Mars parc, we strolled home for a rest. Tonight - off to the Pigale and Montmarte with lots of walking!!
Will not pay for internet from now forward because won't be here all day tomorrow. We leave for Avignon on 11am TGV. We are supposed to have wi-fi in Avignon! Sorry, no photos today, internet is very slow, TV cable just went out. For a minute, we thought we were home with Comcast!

June 04, 2011

Paris Day 2

After breakfast of croissants and cafe creme at the cafe next to our hotel, we were off to Notre Dame and Ile St. Louis.




Very hot today, 85F and being a weekend the city is really crowded. We bought sandwiches and a little carafe of wine and sat on the edge of the Seine to eat. Many, many boat tours! I can't ever remember seeing so many at one time! We walked and walked and have plans for staying in our own neighboorhood tonight to eat. The river and the Eiffel Tower are both a short walk from us and we were thinking about the Bateau Mouche. Rain is predicted, not sure when it will arrive, umbrellas in hand, we will continue on!!


Late evening: After we ate , we took a ride on the Bateau Mouche on the Seine. We saw parts of Paris by water we had not seen before! We started at the Eiffel Tower, which was twinkling at 10pm and it was not quite dark yet! Later videos in the dark, this photographer screwed up. Too bad. A late night glass of wine was had at the same place we ate - Cafe du Marche and somewhere around 1pm we walked across the street to our hotel and went to bed! For those wondering, we both had the daily special plats - steak!








June 03, 2011

Paris- day 1

Things never seem to work out the way you plan, but then, here I am sitting in our hotel room in Paris with no complaints. The BA flight coming into BWI was late coming from London, therefore, our flight was late leaving. Seems they had a strong headwind, so we had a strong tailwind and made up the time. Great, don't you think? Until we got over LHR (London airport for you newbies) and the pilot told us all this good news...and then added that due to air congestion we would have to circle for 20 minutes, which in total would put us in almost 30 minutes late!!!

Then they had to wait for the bus to arrive to take us all to the other end of Terminal 5. Oh, well, missed the connection to Paris! BA is good, nice man quickly put us on another flight that left in half hour, so we still had to run! The new flight went into Orly instead of Charles de Gaulle - so with Rick's help we had to mastermind plans to get into the city from there. During the 50 minutes bus ride, I recalled taking that same Air France bus back in 1969 and 1971. So, then we're off the bus, onto the Metro for 2 stops - and we are home on Rue Cler. This is our 5th visit to our favorite neighborhood. The twinkling Eiffel Tower is nearby and so is our favorite cafe. And with all the air delays we only had a 30 minute delay getting into our hotel. All is well and wine and food are waiting.


Late in the evening:


Confit du Canard - favorite dish in our favorite Cafe Marche on Rue Cler. Fried duck, fried potatoes and salad. Ah, and there was wine too! And a walk to the Eiffel Tower.

Then finally, sleep in a bed instead of an airplane seat!

May 31, 2011

France 2011

HERE WE GO AGAIN!

We are off to Paris and then the south of France. Please follow along and enjoy the trip!
Itinerary:
Paris - 3 days
Avignon - 2 days
Aix-en-Provence - 3 days
Cassis - 2 days
St. Tropez - 2 days
Villefrance - 2 days
Nice - 4 days

I will try to post photos, you will see the links on the right side of the page. I have albums set up and ready to go, depending on upload speeds. If that doesn't work out, I will post photos in the blog as I did for Italy.
Please remember that if you leave a comment and put yourself as "anonymous", please put your first name of initials after the text of your comment so I know who it is from!!
There are new webcams and French music in The Box.
Also, please feed the fish while I am gone - it keeps the cat busy watching them swim around.

Talk to you while we are on the road......or in the air, or on the tracks!

June 01, 2010

Next trip

Plans are already in the works. France and the Riviera, definitely Nice and St. Tropez.....

American Airlines and British Airways

Despite the cabin crew strike, British Airways quickly booked us on a flight from Milan to JFK; then from JFK to BWI on American Airlines, on the same day we expected to leave. Pretty nifty, since we had paid for our seats with our BA miles.

I wasn't able to book online because all I had was a booking reference from BA. And, perhaps I could have if I had remembered by AA ID and password; but since it has been many years since I used it I didn't remember. We didn't even have an e-ticket; however when we got to the desk at check-in, and I told them BA had booked us, they found us right away. We are sitting in the middle of the plane - however in Row 11 - so it is not quite as awful as being in the tail of the plane - and at least we are sitting next to one anothe and aren't quite packed in like sardines. We have to get our bags at JFK to clear customs, but we already have our boarding passes for connecting AA flight home; so once clearing customs we can use the fast bag drop. Onward flight has us both in window seats, Jim in row 2 and me behind in row 3. Again, at least we are in forward section of plane. Bad deal: it is American Eagle. Prop plane no doubt. It is against my religion to fly on prop planes. First and last time we did this was on the way home from Jamaica; I swore never again to arrive in JFK and fly American home. If you are reading this on the blog, you know we made it home and the propellers didn't stop working. Prefer jets, thank you.

We are in the middle of our flight and have already decided we do not like the long haul up front. It is just great leaving city in Europe early in the morning, flying into Heathrow, doing a bit a shopping, getting an English bite to eat and checking bags through to BWI. This is a real pain. Bags have to be picked up at JFK for customs/immigration/security, have to drop them off, find our gate, do all this stuff while dead tired and still get on another flight. So we won't intentionally ever do this again. Also, even though this is same plane (767) it is configured differently, there is more leg room - seats are tiny bit wider. Good you think? Nope. Seats do not recline as much as on BA 767, nor do they have fancy headrest where you can tilt the sides down and rest your head. There is no TV in front of me (on the back of the seat in front of me) , nor can I choose movies, TV shows, music videos that I would like to watch. I am stuck with whatever they want to show which happens to be dumb stuff. We both have our own ear buds, but if we didn't, they want to sell them to you. BA offers head sets for free. We do have a blanket & pillow, the meal was free, yucky and not enough. BA has better food. BA gives you free alcoholic beverages and also wine. One would have to pay and we didn't. I am bored silly. Like to have my gin & tonic, wine , watch movies and take a nap. Watched 3 episodes of Harry Potter on way home last time. I've played solitaire on my iPod, wrote this info for blog. Read all the magazines.

We shall see how the rest of this plays out. So far we are not crazy about flying into USA and tranferring. Always like to transfer in Europe - which is what makes BA ideal. Due to this snafu with the strike, I am not able to pick up my plum pudding from Harrods for Christmas dinner OR my Glenmorangie Scotch from duty free. Major disappointment!!

Landed in JFK, actually got through everything rather quickly, and walked back out to the gate to board the American Eagle flight home. Lo and behold! Jet engines!!! Not only that, my window seat (and Jim's behind me) is a single seat, across from the galley and about 15 ft from the pilot --

Really great, boarded at 3:10, pulled away from the gate 10 minutes early - actual flight time 38 minutes - actual time to get out of JFK - don't ask. At 4:10 we were still waiting to get up to our runway, a few minutes afterwards pilot announces that we are to go back to gate for get more fuel. Were we going to BWI on fumes???? Due to thunderstorms, we are being rerouted and needed more fuel. So, we were supposed to land at 5:30pm and we are now just at cruising level. No way to let Beth know, who will we waiting for us at 5:30pm, paying the high hourly parking rate. So, sort of count on AA not always having a full tank.

Thanks to Beth, our land pilot, we are home safe and sound.

May 30, 2010

Thoughts on travel in Italy

So, our holiday in Italy is at it's end. Beautiful sights, wonderful food, fantastic wine, nice people. Mostly everyone, even in remote areas spoke some English. Many were quite fluent in English. Only an occasional person spoke only a few English words.

We have been to Italy before, so we were expecting loud, quick moving pace. We sooned learned however, that standing in line for a boat, bus or anything at all, meant nothing. One could be standing in line for 30 minutes waiting for a means of transportation to have folks walk up and go right in front of you. If you are wondering if this was because we were not Italian, that isn't the case. They all push and shove in front of one another. German folks push in front of every one too. If you stand and wait like you have good sense, you will lose. So, after about 4 to 5 days we learned to push and shove our way to whatever it was we wanted - even gelato!! This morning at the airport, where one usually is expected to queue up for British Airways, we found ourselves waiting for boarding at American Airlines - and noted that if this was England they would be killed for not abiding by the queue rules.

They stand in the middle of busy sidewalks and have conversations - we learned to plow right past them, sometimes through them. Push them aside and ride your wheeled luggage over their feet - it's what one does to get around. By all means, stop and fuss over a baby or young child of any age. Babies are sacred, must be fussed over, patted on the head and are definitely show stoppers. One baby can stop traffic anywhere - for all friends to stop and fuss.

Toilets. For the most part the hole in the ground Turkish toilets are minimal. Times have changed. However, now there are porcelan bowls, about 12 inches off the ground and with flushable water. No toilet seats - even in the fancy Vatican facilites. Most of the them flush only half the time; some Italian lady came out of a stall where I was waiting - fussing, making gestures it wouldn't flush. Toilet paper - smart travelers carry a roll with them, or a least a pack of tissues. Even in cafe rest rooms, toilet paper can be a non entity. Some co-ed toilets - individual stalls, everyone comes out and washes hands together. Being a savvy traveler, I was able to show a male traveler how to turn on the spigot - with the foot pedal of course!! Apparently some folks are not used to flushing at all - one had to go in behind them and flush first before using. These were Italian folks - who just aren't used to bathroom faciities as we know them. It was always a relief to get back to our hotel or B&B where there was a toilet as we know it. However, even in your hotel room, bright light is not always a priority. And, towels do get thinner as you go further south.

Pickpockets and thieves: while I bought our rail tickets for our trip from the ticket machines, Jim guarded our bags and kept waving away the thieves that try to steal your tickets. Polizia sort of just watch them. All train stations, tourist areas, have signs saying watch your bags, be careful of pickpockets. A man at our hotel had his wallet stollen on the Circumvesuviana train. Poor dude just didn't know he shouldn't carry a wallet at all!!

Tickets. Want to buy a ticket for a bus to go across country?? No where near where the bus is - one buys tickets at a tabacchi - but not necessarily the one near where the buses pull in. Could be 1/4 mile away - missed bus one morning for trying to locate the right one. Buses come in and park, and it's anyone's guess as to what bus yours will be - and it might be early or it might be late - or they might tell you it is not going at all despite posted times.

On time: what's that? If your train does arrive on time, don't expect it to get to your destination on time. Oh, hope you don't have connecting train.... Why isn't the bus or boat leaving, where's the driver??? Sitting across the road in the shade having a smoke. Simple explanation.

Big coach brings you into town where there is supposed to be small shuttle. Yup, there is the shuttle, there is the driver and there is not schedule. Driver says " No Go".

Food: just beyond belief, the freshest tomato sauce - really cooked tomatoes, olive oil, maybe a little fresh basil. One can easily just come to Italy to eat great food and see beautiful things.

Wi-fi access: they don't advertise as having it. If you ask, perhaps they do! Or, in some places charge 6 euro an hour. Some charge to use their computer, many were amazed that I had laptop with me! It's not something Italian folks seem to do. Even last 4 star hotel in Milan - wi-fi was free if you had own computer; they charged you to use theirs.

Traffic. Red lights are a suggestion. If you want to cross street - just walk out in front of them. Watch out for the Vespa's or scooters on the sidewalk; if you want to get someplace, just go - or you would be waiting to cross all day. Best bet on busy street, walk out behind a pregnant woman or a nun - if you need to feel safe. Once you get the hang of it, you too could cross the street in Napoli.
Gelato: one gets used to buying it was proprietor's that make their own...... it does make a difference!!

Organization: there is none. No order to anything - Malpensa airport was great example; it amazed me that we even got up in the air at all - 15 minutes late of course! We have used Linate in the past - did not seem quite a chaotic as Malpensa. British Airways can board a 767 in less than 30 minutes - we have done it. It wasn't American Airlines ( we don't think) , but theI talian staff - just no organization. What has surprised us on the whole trip is the comparison to Greece.

When we went to Greece we expected it to be very different from the rest of Europe. However, they are very organized, have buses which take you from one town to another where the next bus is waiting for you. Bus drivers sell tickets, or you buy them in a kiosk right next to bus stand. They are very traveler friendly. Everyone in Greece had wi-fi, bright bathrooms, and toilet seats!! We were amazed that Italy is still back where it was many years ago with no changes made to join the modern world.

I can now buy train tickets in Italian - bought the tickets for going all over the country at the local machines. I also know can use the ATM (Bancomat) machines that don't have English translation. And, I can buy gelato if they don't speak English. All the important things.....

So, go to Italy! Eat, drink and join the chaos - and don't be in a hurry!!

Milan Day 1



Arrived on our last train from Monterosso around 2pm. Staying at 4-star hotel within sight of train station. This is a business hotel district and one can get a terrific room for good rates on the weekend, we have stayed here before. Tomorrow we will have short walk there to ride bus to Malpensa airport. We will get the 7:10 bus giving us enought time to check-in and clear security, as the bus ride is almost 1 hour.

We took the Metro to the Duomo, had been there before, but it's sort of the place to go. Today is Sunday, many places closed.

We returned to our hotel after watching a big May Day celebration by the Filipino community - little girls, and big ones in a May procession. Later we returned to the Galleria for our last big splurge dinner - we had Osso Bucco and Milanese rice - traditional dishes invented here. Our waiter took a photo, it is a bit blurry, but festive none the less.




Tomorrow we will learn what it is like on American Airlines. The owner of our hotel in Monterosso said they make you pay for everything. He once pay 6 euro for a beer, and he said it wasn't a very good beer. We are dressing warm, we are used to planes being cold, but we are used to our free booze and blankets on British Airways!!! We cannot check in on line, so hopefully we will get decent seats for the long haul to JFK. Wish us luck - we are spoiled British Airways customers!





May 29, 2010

Monterosso Day 3

After breakfast today we took a little stroll around the seafront, mostly sightseeing, people watching and a little shopping. Made dinner reservations and then returned to our room. Jim is sunning himself on our balcony - I washed his shirt which is drying on our balcony. This it Italy, a balcony without clothes drying is a barren sight.
We took a walk on the beach, got our feet wet in the Mediterranean Sea. Stopped for gelato on the way back and then later went out to dinner. Sitting on our balcony was like going to the movies - with the sea at our doorstep.

Later, out to dinner at the Belvedere, where we had the house speciality. It's a big Grecian looking urn, that is a terra cotta crock. Inside are mussels, gameroni, a white fish, a lobster and a whole octopus. We have had this before in the past and it was just as wonderful. They serve toasted bread to soak in the broth. A most magnificent meal!!!!






Monterosso Day 2


Breakfast at our hotel was a rather extravagant affair with even Mortadella and brie - besides the usual. I was disappointed that there was no foccacia, despite their big spread. Ah, but you could have as much cafe as you wanted - a definite plus!
On the train again, 15 minutes up the road to town #1 Riomaggiore. After a brief visit, we headed over the easy trail, the Via dell'Amore which leads right into town #2 Manarola. After a brief stop for a piece of foccacia (I had been deprived earlier), we headed up to the cemetary - for the fantastic views of the town. After a photo shoot, we decended down, on the train again and over to Vernazza.


Lunch in Vernazza - pizza with pesto! We ate our pizza and drank our Coke at the harbor, then walked around the corner to the rocks - where one can sunbathe - or sit and cool off your feet. I chose the later, and after my desinated rock time, left Jim there and went off shopping. A few souvenirs - bags of trofie (pasta only available in this shape here in Ligure region), a tiny jar of pesto for myself as Jim doesn't like it and couple other small things for those at home.
Back on the train, 5 minuto and we are home in Monterosso. A brief rest on the balcony, shower (when you shut the water off it still sounds like it's on (it's the sea!) - and while stepping out of the shower you can not only hear but see the Mediterranean practically at our doorstep.
Last night before leaving Vernazza we made reservations for Gambero Rosso's, next door to Gianni's. We will leave here in a little while for drinks on the harbor before we eat at Gambero's. Vernazza's harbor is tiny, faces the square - all of this I'm talking about is tucked in a tiny little area.....and this is the beauty of my most favorite place.
 

Monterosso Day 1


Trained from Firenze to Pisa, changed trains and here we are in Monterosso! This is always by far, the best part of our trips. This year we went to a new hotel because our old one wasn't free one of the nights we planned to be here.


Best hotel here that we have stayed in......our balcony opens up with a view of the beach and the sea. We are listening to the surf and can see #4 town, my favorite Vernazza, in the distance.
We walked only minutes from train to hotel, greeted by the manager who took us upstairs to this magnificent room; she told us (one is always TOLD in Italy) to bring down our documents (passports) and she would give us a glass of wine. Nice touch because most hotels want them immediately and one must dig them out of the money belt, getting half undressed in the lobby. It's the law, they need your passport information or they get fined. We did as she said, then were sat at the little bar, given a glass of wine and some Italian bar snacks - pretzels, other crunchy things. We asked for her to make dinner reservations at Gianni Franzi's for us tonight - this is my favorite restaurant in the whole world. It is over in Vernazza. She checked the train schedule to make sure we could get back before last train. The old gentlemen who owns the hotel asked us what time, we told him 7:30 or 8pm - only saying 7:30 because we knew we didn't want to miss 10:30 train. He said "you go at 8". Yes sir, we know 7:30 is too early to eat in Italy. We are going to eat at 8pm as we were told.
We already know where we are going to eat the next 2 nights; even Ella, the manager, told us we should eat the Belvedere on our last night. We have been there before, and plan to mind and go eat there on our last night. That one is here in Monterosso. Tomorrow we will go to Gambero Rosso's, our other Vernazza favorite which is next door to Gianni's on the square.
After our glass of wine, and discussion of next year's plan down to which room we shouod stay in - we went off to lunch at my favorite lunch spotl. Even got to sit at the same table - always ordered the same thing - Insalada Caprese, white wine. Local wine is white, you drink white wine here. A bit of stroll through the tiny town, then back to hotel for a rest, showers and getting ready to go off to Vernazza. 5 min train trip between towns - there is a treacherous hiking trail - forget that! Besides, there are notices around town that it is closed due to landslide. Train if fine - it comes eventully - they do however have schedules!


Addendum to above: Ah, Vernazza harbor and dinner at Gianni's - trofie pesto as primi platti for me, mussels with spahetti for Jim; and he haad the baby octupus and I had the gamberoni. I knew what I wanted before I sat down, my "usual". After a fine meal with 2 bottles of Gianni's wine, we hopped back on the train to Monterosso at 10: 40pm. Not only did we see the sunset over the Mediterranean while at Gianni's, there was a full moon.
Back on our balcony, Jim poured a glass of wine, but I had other ideas. I could through this little computer into the gelati stand outside our balcony. In fact, I could my flavor from here--BUT, already know what flavor! 3 minutes later I was back on the balcony with my cioccolatto gelato. We slept with the balcony doors open, listening to the sea.