We love France, we love the south of France, we love Nice!! It is a quieter country than Italy where everyone shouts at one another. Nice of course being so near to the Italian border, is sort of half Italian and half French. One is just likely to be greated at a cafe by Buon Giorno and Bon Jour. After buying a quick lunch of pizza one day, as we left the young man said " merci" - when Jim said "grazie" to him, he gave a big smile and shook Jim's hand.
The French are very nice and can be very helpful. When Jim went to get car out of garage in Cassis, there seemed to be no way to pay. Our credit cards do not work with automated machines in most of Europe, their have adopted chip and pin cards, and it seemed this machine didn't take any bills either. A helpful woman in her car stopped to help and sent him to the second floor of the garage to the office. Someone along the line another woman stopped to ask if she could help. The man at the office took the parking ticket and said there was a special tourist rate and only charged 15 euro for 2 days!! A couple girls helped us figure out the machine for buying Metro tickets in Paris. Many very nice people.
Most people speak a little English, the few we found who didn't (one being the girl I bought train tickets from to go to Marseille) did fine with my bit of "train French" - simply knowing the words for roundtrip (aller-retour) and today (aujourd'hui).
When you get into the city, it is just like NYC. Get out of my way or I'll knock you over. Occasionally one says "pardon" or "excusez-moi" but mostly they are similar to New Yorkers in Time Square who ignore you. Try walking down the street to the crosswalk with your rolling luggage, carryon bag and purse or camera bag - young folks just stand in front of you and don't move. Of course, if they are speaking French, you know they live there - but others seem to do the same thing and they aren't speaking French. Of course the Germans are pushy and will get by, given my heritage, I almost knocked over a young lady standing in my way on the way to the airport bus.
Food and wine are great even in the smallest of cafe's. No such thing as a greasy spoon or hole-in-the wall. We did discover in Nice that one place had warm croissants - so we ate our breakfast there! Hotels all offer breakfast, which includes cereals, cold cuts and eggs (hard boiled) and croissants but we could get coffee and croissants for the price of one breakfast. Besides, we didn't really feel we needed all that food in such warm weather.
Hot and sunny everywhere. Even though temperatures in the mid to high 70's, it felt much hotter, the sea was warm. Cool breezes on the sea coast but not chilly, even at night.
There are many tolls on the highway, but the roads are in excellent condition. Pretty easy getting from one place to another. Having little Garmin most of the time was a success - we never opened a map and I was sorry I carried those heavy Michelin maps over there. What little Nuvi Garmin did not tell you is that your hotel was on the side of the street where the bus lane was and you couldn't drop your bags off!! Good thing this was in Nice, we just returned the car and walked to the hotel. At least we already knew our way around there.
In Cassis, Nuvi tried to send us into the sea - but she didn't know that after a certain time in the morning they closed the road to traffic!! We found the back of the hotel, I walked around, and Michelle who I had talked to book the room told me to bring the bags around and where to park the car a short distance away. So, we did get there!! In Villefranche, we rode around with Nuvi "recalculating" several times - only because what looked like a dead end was a tiny road down to the sea!! We finally got it right when we stopped and I got out to look over the wall and see the rest of the little road!! Parking in small resort like Villefranche costs as much as NYC!! But, it was a breeze being able to throw luggage in the car and just drive off. If one takes a train there, there is a long walk downhill along the seacoast (which is OK, we've done that before) but it is an impossible climb up the hill back to the train station and requires a taxi ride. We have decided we like having a car!
So now, we are off to planning trip for next year! I want to go to Germany, but not sure Jim can tolerate 2 weeks of being around other people like me. He did say he would try! If not there, we may do the west coast of France, visit Bordeaux wine region and San Sebastian/Bilbao region where France borders Spain. That would be another foodie trip!! Stay tuned....
June 23, 2011
On the way home....
We had our last breakfast at our favorite cafe this morning - fresh hot croissants and cafe creme. Then after going back to hotel to pick up our bags, we walked a few blocks to the number 98 bus stop for the trip to the airport. 4 euros each, great deal!! In previous times leaving Nice we had to be at airport very early and had to pay for a taxi to get there. Not only was this later flight great in that aspect, but we also got to see Nice airport open and active! We had time to sit and get a drink and sandwich before our flight left. It was a 2 hr flight to LHR.
We actually landed 15 minutes early in London which gave us a good 2 hrs to connect to our next flight. Ha! What we had time for was to me to run into Harrods to get our Christmas pudding, to use les toilets and then make our way to our next flight. Terminal 5 is huge and after much walking and then a electric train ride out to the new satellite terminal C we had a few quick minutes to by a coffee at Starbucks before boarding the flight. Sadly, I did not have enough time to browse in my favorite English shops in Terminal 5.
Our flight left sort of on time, we had started to be pushed out and then were pushed backed in for a vapor lock in the gas tank. Pilot said it would take only a few minutes, and he was right. So now, instead of being a few minutes earlier landing, we will arrive on time.
We have already had our gin & tonic, our meal, tea and dessert and I'm writing this before I take a nap. I'm watching Rango, a Johnny Depp movie where his voice is the voice of a lizard. I like it!!
Battery running low on little Mini…..
Next entry will be a "thoughts on France"' Stayed tuned.
We actually landed 15 minutes early in London which gave us a good 2 hrs to connect to our next flight. Ha! What we had time for was to me to run into Harrods to get our Christmas pudding, to use les toilets and then make our way to our next flight. Terminal 5 is huge and after much walking and then a electric train ride out to the new satellite terminal C we had a few quick minutes to by a coffee at Starbucks before boarding the flight. Sadly, I did not have enough time to browse in my favorite English shops in Terminal 5.
Our flight left sort of on time, we had started to be pushed out and then were pushed backed in for a vapor lock in the gas tank. Pilot said it would take only a few minutes, and he was right. So now, instead of being a few minutes earlier landing, we will arrive on time.
We have already had our gin & tonic, our meal, tea and dessert and I'm writing this before I take a nap. I'm watching Rango, a Johnny Depp movie where his voice is the voice of a lizard. I like it!!
Battery running low on little Mini…..
Next entry will be a "thoughts on France"' Stayed tuned.
Nice Day 4
We decided not to go to beach today. Spent time wandering around all our favorite spots, sitting and people watching, enjoying our lbreakfast of warm croissants and cafe creme, and our last salad and wine lunch. We had to stay in town near the hotel today so we could check-in on line and get the best seats possible for flights home. So, we started organizing and cramming all of our possessions into our suitcases. Check-in accomplished, we were back out strolling around. We had our last Nice meal at a restaurant where we ate the last time - another Italian one. Ah, one more nightime stroll and it was off to bed! In the morning, we shall have plenty of time for those wonderful croissants one last time, and then we will be off to get the bus to the airport.
June 19, 2011
Nice Day 3
Here we are at the Beau Rivage last night for drinks (oops, aperitifs) before dinner.
Other photos will be in album. We had a great time, started off with our aperitifs at 7:30 at the beach bar and didn't leave our table until after 11pm. Ah, this was something we were really looking forward to and it was just as great as the last time we were there. We got home well after midnight - and there were more people in the streets and out and about than there were at noon. It was Saturday night in Nice and a great time!! One almost hated to come in, but we were tired!
Shopping/sightseeing in the old town this morning, then off to beach in the afternoon. We may be going over to the old town tonight - some of the areas are more Italian than others....Jim says we are going to "little Italy". Ravioli was first made here in Nice and there are tons of shops selling homemade ravioli all shapes and sizes and fillings. How wonderful to just go to the store and buy fresh ravioli!! Looking forward to eating some tonight - every place has Italian and French food. This is just the perfect place!!
June 18, 2011
Nice Day 2
Last night's dinner - we both had scampi and linguine with an Asian touch - and gelato later walking home.Spent the morning wandering through some of our favorite spots, and looking in our favorite shops. Aside from the tram's arrival and Place Massena having a bit of a makeover, Nice is pretty much the same place.
This afternoon we went to the beach - my favorite beach in the whole world. Well, second favorite, as Vernazza's rocks are really my favorite. Nice is fantastic for the beach - NO sand. Marvelous. You can come to the beach, then walk and shop, go eat lunch, no sand sticking to you. If only I could take this beach to Ocean City!!! Check out the photo album!
Tonight we are going to our special dinner on the beach at the Beau Rivage. We have been there in the past and I hope the food is still as good because the view cannot be beat!
June 16, 2011
Nice Day 1
We are here in Nice! Yikes, traffic awful, bus lane in front of hotel so you couldn't stop. After circling the block we decided to ditch the car at Avis which is at the Gare SNCF (train station) and walk to our hotel, dragging our little rolling cases up the Avenue Jean Medecin and eventually to Hotel Lafayette . At least we know where we are from being here so many times in the past. We are both in one of our favorite places on earth. Hotel pictures of room will be done tomorrow after it's cleaned. We threw all our stuff around before I remembered to take a photo!
We have been to the old town, did some shopping already. Lunch was had at an Italian pizza place - we got to talk a little Italian. It was just a small place run by a couple Italians. We are very near the border to Italy. We sat on a bench just watch the sea, people on the beach and the flights going in Nice airport.
Meals are less expensive here and tonight we will eat well for less euros!! We are finished with the car and will take the bus or train if we decide to go to Monte Carlo/Monaco.
Villefranche Day 2
Woke up this morning to a Disney cruise ship in the harbor. Markets set up and all sorts of goings on so the cruise folks will buy, buy, buy. We even had to pay to park because I suppose the free parking area was used for buses to take them around!
We went to the beach today, then took a drive around Cap Ferrat - beautiful estates and villas - but tiny one lane roads (with 2 lane traffic). After a drive around the whole area we returned home. It was one of the reasons we wanted to have a car here - but too difficult to try and get anywhere. We came back and had salads (and wine) on the quai - and are now back on our balcony and our air conditioned room. Only in the high 70's but the sun is very hot. Nice breeze and just beautiful here.
****highlight of the evening was watching the Disney ship leave the port and tooting "When You Wish Upon A Star"........second highlight was dinner in our now favorite Villefranche cafe....we ate there last night too...and ate there the last time we were here. We have now dubbed Le Cosmos our favorite!June 15, 2011
Villefranche Day 1
Breakfast in the garden and then in a few minutes will be off to Villefranche. Miss Garmin Nuvi, whose voice irritates Jim, will guide us right there. Best thing besides little Dell mini that I even bought!! And yes, you can change the voice, but they all irritate Jim. He does admit she is helpful and is so much easier than maps - which I wish I had not dragged along.
Next stop: Villefranche sur le Mer and supposedly free wi-fi!
We have arrived, took us awhile to find the hotel. We had stayed there before and one of us knew you could take the car to the front of it; of course, the driver was sure you couldn't. Nuvi's instructions were a bit difficult to follow - but eventually we ended up at front door of hotel - street was very teeny and windy down to the harbor - but the street was there!!!!!
We dropped off our bags and had salads on the quai - sitting here on this gorgeous balcony (check out the photos) while writing this. I am right at same spot where I saw Rod Stewart a few years ago - will keep my eye out for him!!
Next stop: Villefranche sur le Mer and supposedly free wi-fi!
We have arrived, took us awhile to find the hotel. We had stayed there before and one of us knew you could take the car to the front of it; of course, the driver was sure you couldn't. Nuvi's instructions were a bit difficult to follow - but eventually we ended up at front door of hotel - street was very teeny and windy down to the harbor - but the street was there!!!!!
We dropped off our bags and had salads on the quai - sitting here on this gorgeous balcony (check out the photos) while writing this. I am right at same spot where I saw Rod Stewart a few years ago - will keep my eye out for him!!
June 14, 2011
Last night we had seafood on the harbor. Mine was salted cod with mussels, carrots, green beans, egg and potato all with a big boil of aioli (garlic mayonnaise). Jim had frito misto -- fried tidbits of all sea creatures. A fine meal.
This morning, after breakfast on our terrace we were off to Plage de Pampelonne. To go to the beach Bridgitte Bardot made famous was on Jim's bucket list. We have now completed the adventure. The beaches are really beautiful, that whole area is gorgeous as we drove by in the car. We peasants parked at the public lot and went to the public beach. One needs reservations for the beach and lunch at the big places. We sat and watch people being brought in from their yachts by dinghy. Over head, helicopters were also bringing folks in for lunch. We stopped by the Monoprix after coming home and had our lunch on our terrace. Very sad. Tonight we go in town again for a bit of the even better good life!!
June 13, 2011
St. Tropez Day 1
We are here!! One and half hour drive from Cassis, and little Nuvi took us right to the driveway of the hotel!! Never even had to open a map. Free parking here and we are about 10 min walk to all the excitement at the harbor that you see here.We had lunch at the harbor, did a bit of looking in shops and then came back to the hotel and currently are having snacks and wine on our terrace. Tonight we will eat at the harbor and pick out a yacht....Check out photos - some from Cassis have been uploaded and some for St. Tropez!
June 12, 2011
Cassis Day 2
We took a walk after breakfast, visited all the little shops and the market. There was this very small artsy market with paintings, handmade jewelry and the sort. The most beautiful flowers were there - and they were not real! I wanted to take them all home!!
Back to hotel to change and on the way to the beach I had ice cream cone. Well, it was sorbet actually - one scoop of cassis and one scoop of limoncello. I may have to go there for dinner! However, we were smart today and made a reservation for 9pm at the cafe we really wanted to eat at last night.
Pebble beach (whoo-hooo! No sand!) was great, water beautiful but bone chilling. We each got our feet wet anyway, after all, it is the Mediterranean Sea and one must do it.
We are back at hotel now - Jim on balcony reading the great Kindle - a wonderful creation as he did not have to drag tons of books along this trip. I'm sitting inside in front of the open french doors -- the view is just beyond belief.
To be continued - I feel an outing coming to the Grand Marnier crepe stand.
Later:
Ah yes, while Jim was napping I did go get a crepe.....and watched the woman sprinkle it with lots of Grand Marnier. My kind of snack.
Dinner was great, we both had fish soup and the fish which turned out to be grouper. Finished with Pannacotte with strawberry couolis for dessert.....and a free Limoncello on the house! Hey, what country is this???
To St. Tropez tomorrow!!
Back to hotel to change and on the way to the beach I had ice cream cone. Well, it was sorbet actually - one scoop of cassis and one scoop of limoncello. I may have to go there for dinner! However, we were smart today and made a reservation for 9pm at the cafe we really wanted to eat at last night.
Pebble beach (whoo-hooo! No sand!) was great, water beautiful but bone chilling. We each got our feet wet anyway, after all, it is the Mediterranean Sea and one must do it.
We are back at hotel now - Jim on balcony reading the great Kindle - a wonderful creation as he did not have to drag tons of books along this trip. I'm sitting inside in front of the open french doors -- the view is just beyond belief.
To be continued - I feel an outing coming to the Grand Marnier crepe stand.
Later:
Ah yes, while Jim was napping I did go get a crepe.....and watched the woman sprinkle it with lots of Grand Marnier. My kind of snack.
Dinner was great, we both had fish soup and the fish which turned out to be grouper. Finished with Pannacotte with strawberry couolis for dessert.....and a free Limoncello on the house! Hey, what country is this???
To St. Tropez tomorrow!!
June 11, 2011
Cassis Day 1
There is no internet, no wifi here at the Hotel le Golfe. BUT, sitting on the harbor, our own sidewalk cafe right beneath us and the price of 110 euros a night make up for it.
This morning (Saturday) we took a short walk to Avis, trailing all our wordly possessions behind us. Off we went in our new ride (a 4-door Peugot) to Cassis which was only 30 minutes away. Our Garmin took us right to Cassis. Garmin Nuvi, herein further known as Nuvi, could get us to harbor, but cars were not allowed. As Rick said in "The Book", hotels were signed but hard to find. The roads are tiny, winding down to the harbor and all one way with many roundabouts. We felt like Chevy Chase in European vacation - just how many more times are we going around in the roundabout AND what Chevy didn't have was an irritating voice saying "recalculating". Eventually we got down to the harbor and right in back of our hotel. I walked around front - WOW - the hotel's sidewalk cafe sits right on the harbor and it was gorgeous! Jim took our bags in and we left them there until our room was ready. We took the car to the car park and there it will stay until we bail it out on Monday when we leave for St. Tropez. We surveyed the harbor, had lunch, checked out the beach and then headed back to our room.....and our balcony. We are still here - can't take our eyes off the view!
We were not sure of what time to eat, we can see all the cafe tables from our balcony and many tables were empty. We went out at 7:30 to shop for where we wanted to eat. Quickly we learned that we were out of luck due to not having a reservation. We finally found a cafe with good priced menu, not far from oour hotel. And, they were able to seat us. For 24 euro we had a 3 course meal. This was a cheaper menu, as one can also find 30 euro and higher menus. For the uninitiated "Menu" means what they use to call a fixed price meal. For one price you have your choise of various items for the 3 courses. All are written in French, but we can usually understand what we are getting and an occasional waiter who speaks as much English as I do Frfench will help assist with an item I can't figure out.
We have already decided not to take the boat ride tomorrow to the calanques. Seeing photos, well, sort of been there and done that in Capri last year. Everyone has them, and they all want you to pay and go see them. We saw them in Italy....and will skip doing it here. It will not only save a few euros but put us on the beach!! And there are many places to eat ice cream, plus the Grand Marnier crepe stand to keep me busy. Check out new photos.
This morning (Saturday) we took a short walk to Avis, trailing all our wordly possessions behind us. Off we went in our new ride (a 4-door Peugot) to Cassis which was only 30 minutes away. Our Garmin took us right to Cassis. Garmin Nuvi, herein further known as Nuvi, could get us to harbor, but cars were not allowed. As Rick said in "The Book", hotels were signed but hard to find. The roads are tiny, winding down to the harbor and all one way with many roundabouts. We felt like Chevy Chase in European vacation - just how many more times are we going around in the roundabout AND what Chevy didn't have was an irritating voice saying "recalculating". Eventually we got down to the harbor and right in back of our hotel. I walked around front - WOW - the hotel's sidewalk cafe sits right on the harbor and it was gorgeous! Jim took our bags in and we left them there until our room was ready. We took the car to the car park and there it will stay until we bail it out on Monday when we leave for St. Tropez. We surveyed the harbor, had lunch, checked out the beach and then headed back to our room.....and our balcony. We are still here - can't take our eyes off the view!
We were not sure of what time to eat, we can see all the cafe tables from our balcony and many tables were empty. We went out at 7:30 to shop for where we wanted to eat. Quickly we learned that we were out of luck due to not having a reservation. We finally found a cafe with good priced menu, not far from oour hotel. And, they were able to seat us. For 24 euro we had a 3 course meal. This was a cheaper menu, as one can also find 30 euro and higher menus. For the uninitiated "Menu" means what they use to call a fixed price meal. For one price you have your choise of various items for the 3 courses. All are written in French, but we can usually understand what we are getting and an occasional waiter who speaks as much English as I do Frfench will help assist with an item I can't figure out.
We have already decided not to take the boat ride tomorrow to the calanques. Seeing photos, well, sort of been there and done that in Capri last year. Everyone has them, and they all want you to pay and go see them. We saw them in Italy....and will skip doing it here. It will not only save a few euros but put us on the beach!! And there are many places to eat ice cream, plus the Grand Marnier crepe stand to keep me busy. Check out new photos.
June 10, 2011
Aix-en-Provence Day 3 (Marseille)
Took train to Marseille today after breakfast of croissant, tartine and cafe creme. Well, I had the tartine, Jim had the croissant. For those not familiar, tartine is nothing but a baguette with butter. Yummy.We had a great time in Marseille, will put some photos in album. Hot and sunny here. Easy trip over on the train, walked to the harbor and walked some of the old back streets. We took the tourist train which takes you to the far parts of the harbor and then up to Notre Dame de la Garde. It sits high above the city - you can see if far away in some of the photos. The wrist on the baby Jesus that Mary is holding is 42 inches!! The whole statue weighs 9 tons. Incredible. Most of the back streets are grimey and questionable, but the tourist area around the harbor is quite nice. The harbor is HUGE and beautiful. We split a sandwich before hopping on the Metro to the train station and then coming home. Arrived back here around 5:30pm. We will have late night dinner here in Aix, again watching the sights on the Cours Mirabeau and then tomorrow we will be driving to Cassis, about 30 minutes from here. I'm not sure of internet connection there, but hey, we will be staying in a room over looking the harbor. The good life is really starting to begin!!
June 09, 2011
Aix-en-Provence Day 2
After our usual breakfast of croissants and cafe creme, we were off to the markets. We went to a big flower market, produce market and then to a clothing one which seemed to cover the whole Cours Mireabeau (the main street) . By the way, I always seem to get a real dislike for French women by this point. No matter what age, I don't think I saw one woman who wears a size larger than 2. It just isn't fair. So many cute things to buy, if you were a size 2. But, I did buy a pair of white Birkenstock sandals for 33 euros and a bar of local soap that smells like peaches!!
We had lunch today at a side walk cafe, I had a Grand Marnier crepe and Jim had one of those terrific pizzas with paper thin crust. Think I want to start making my own thin crusts at home. On the way back to the hotel, I bought a purse. Oh, I think I bought a sac - am I correct Tom?? It's so terrific I have decided to use it for the rest of the trip. I look totally out of place with my one from home - I now will look like every other woman on the street with my big sac tucked under my arm. To further blend in I'm trying desperately to shrink to a size 2, so far no success - and I've only been looking at all the pastries in the windows. I did sample the local famous pastry calissons d' Aix and was glad I did because it wasn't anything special and I was glad I didn't buy a bag of them! I will save calories for something yummy!
We had lunch today at a side walk cafe, I had a Grand Marnier crepe and Jim had one of those terrific pizzas with paper thin crust. Think I want to start making my own thin crusts at home. On the way back to the hotel, I bought a purse. Oh, I think I bought a sac - am I correct Tom?? It's so terrific I have decided to use it for the rest of the trip. I look totally out of place with my one from home - I now will look like every other woman on the street with my big sac tucked under my arm. To further blend in I'm trying desperately to shrink to a size 2, so far no success - and I've only been looking at all the pastries in the windows. I did sample the local famous pastry calissons d' Aix and was glad I did because it wasn't anything special and I was glad I didn't buy a bag of them! I will save calories for something yummy!
June 08, 2011
Aix-en-Provence Day 1
A few more photos added to Avignon. Rained last night into early morning. Blue skies and sun is shining this morning. Now we are off to Aix - 1 hr. 15min bus ride. See you there!
Hello from Aix - arrived on the bus and eventually found our hotel. Probably would have less confusing if we got off at the right stop (train station), instead of going around corner to the bus station. But , eventually we found our way. Check out the room in the photo albums, I started to add a few from our orientation walk! We had pizza for lunch - I had slice of 3 cheeses, emmenthal, goat and I forget the third. It was terrific. They serve it folded over in 2, wrapped in paper and then off you go to a bench! Jim did the mushroom. We walked a bit, found the Monoprix, went downstairs to the grocery part and Jim picked out 2 bottles of wine while I found some fresh duck foie gras. Next was a baquette and then we headed home. I have a great big old fashioned bath tub -- couldn't find any cool soaps or bath salts. I will definitely be on the search tomorrow!! Later we will head to the Cours Mirabeau to eat at a cafe. Will take more photos then....it's a very pretty tree lined street. There are teeny streets and squares all over....much to check out tomorrow, plus the markets.
Hello from Aix - arrived on the bus and eventually found our hotel. Probably would have less confusing if we got off at the right stop (train station), instead of going around corner to the bus station. But , eventually we found our way. Check out the room in the photo albums, I started to add a few from our orientation walk! We had pizza for lunch - I had slice of 3 cheeses, emmenthal, goat and I forget the third. It was terrific. They serve it folded over in 2, wrapped in paper and then off you go to a bench! Jim did the mushroom. We walked a bit, found the Monoprix, went downstairs to the grocery part and Jim picked out 2 bottles of wine while I found some fresh duck foie gras. Next was a baquette and then we headed home. I have a great big old fashioned bath tub -- couldn't find any cool soaps or bath salts. I will definitely be on the search tomorrow!! Later we will head to the Cours Mirabeau to eat at a cafe. Will take more photos then....it's a very pretty tree lined street. There are teeny streets and squares all over....much to check out tomorrow, plus the markets.
June 07, 2011
Avignon Day 2 continued
Check out the photo links on the right. There are some photos of Paris and Avignon. Fairly decent wi-fi connection here, got some uploaded while I could. Sunny and bright, we visited the Palace of the Popes and the big park on top of the hill - had to be two thousand steps to get there. There is a little tourist train that takes you up there but we couldn't find it and rather than waste time looking, off we went up the steps! Definitely worth it for the view and to see the St. Benezet Bridge or what there is left of it! Bridge has been knocked down several times by icy floods - they gave up fixing it. It was built in 1171. A little old. They have a nursey rhyme about it. After lunch in the park, then then easy walk down! We have walked most of Avignon's streets, some of them pedestrian free - it is a very small walled city. Back to hotel, my char duties out of the way - I wash our underwear/shirts every afternoon and they are dry by morning. Particularly nice having a terrace to dry them on - we are on first floor - terrace is actually a balcony of sorts. Tonight we are headed out to dinner in one of the small squares and tomorrow we will get the bus to Aix.
Avignon Day 2
This is the Palace of the Popes. At one time, Avignon was actually the Vatican! Wonderful meal last night, in a little restaurant recommended by hotel's Sylvie. She's great, we are scrapping plans to go by train tomorrow to Aix and going by bus. She's very helpful. Today we will see take the tour of the Palace and see all the sights there are to see.....and eat and drink wine of course. Wine is wonderful, no additives to muck it up!
June 06, 2011
Avignon Day 1
We finished our last night in Paris by eating at our favorite cafe in the Montmarte. Haughty, isn't it? We laughed, because since it is where we ate the last time we figured it must be our favorite and usual spot! Better than TV, sitting there watching the folks who walked by while sipping on our wine. I had incredible chicken with mushroom sauce and Jim had incredible veal with a mustard sauce. Prices were really good, considering where we were and the entertainment provided by the passersby. We finished eating around 10:30 pm and on the way to the Metro you could see the lightning flashing across the city below. As we got to the bottom of the hill, it started raining. However, quickly we got one the Metro stops and rode home in dry comfort!! So far, the rain has not ruined any of our plans.
This morning, it started raining while we were having our croissants and coffee, but by the time we went back to the hotel, got our bags and left, it had stopped! Had one transfer on the Metro to take our to Gare de Lyon. Pretty painless and we are currently on the TGV zipping along to the south, and in 2.5 hours we will arrive at the Avignon TGV station. It is not in the center of town, so we will have to ride the shuttle bus into the center of the city. Our hotel is a short walk away from where the bus drops us off.
Meanwhile I shall sit here and play video games to pay the time. I have comfy little table and even a place to plug in little Dell Mini - all on my second class ticket! We stopped and bought a sandwich and drink and will have lunch before reaching Avignon.
We are here in Avignon - sunny, wifi only works on our little terrace. Very old building with thick walls! Cute little walled town......
June 05, 2011
Paris Day 3
This morning after cafe creme and croissants and une tartine for me, off we went to the sewers. Interesting, smelly but that's about it. Tom, read about it in a book - it was that thrilling to be there in person! Then we took a tree shaded walk from there along the Seine to the Eiffel Tower and Trocedaro. After lunch in the Champs du Mars parc, we strolled home for a rest. Tonight - off to the Pigale and Montmarte with lots of walking!!
Will not pay for internet from now forward because won't be here all day tomorrow. We leave for Avignon on 11am TGV. We are supposed to have wi-fi in Avignon! Sorry, no photos today, internet is very slow, TV cable just went out. For a minute, we thought we were home with Comcast!
Will not pay for internet from now forward because won't be here all day tomorrow. We leave for Avignon on 11am TGV. We are supposed to have wi-fi in Avignon! Sorry, no photos today, internet is very slow, TV cable just went out. For a minute, we thought we were home with Comcast!
June 04, 2011
Paris Day 2
After breakfast of croissants and cafe creme at the cafe next to our hotel, we were off to Notre Dame and Ile St. Louis.Very hot today, 85F and being a weekend the city is really crowded. We bought sandwiches and a little carafe of wine and sat on the edge of the Seine to eat. Many, many boat tours! I can't ever remember seeing so many at one time! We walked and walked and have plans for staying in our own neighboorhood tonight to eat. The river and the Eiffel Tower are both a short walk from us and we were thinking about the Bateau Mouche. Rain is predicted, not sure when it will arrive, umbrellas in hand, we will continue on!!
Late evening: After we ate , we took a ride on the Bateau Mouche on the Seine. We saw parts of Paris by water we had not seen before! We started at the Eiffel Tower, which was twinkling at 10pm and it was not quite dark yet! Later videos in the dark, this photographer screwed up. Too bad. A late night glass of wine was had at the same place we ate - Cafe du Marche and somewhere around 1pm we walked across the street to our hotel and went to bed! For those wondering, we both had the daily special plats - steak!
June 03, 2011
Paris- day 1
Things never seem to work out the way you plan, but then, here I am sitting in our hotel room in Paris with no complaints. The BA flight coming into BWI was late coming from London, therefore, our flight was late leaving. Seems they had a strong headwind, so we had a strong tailwind and made up the time. Great, don't you think? Until we got over LHR (London airport for you newbies) and the pilot told us all this good news...and then added that due to air congestion we would have to circle for 20 minutes, which in total would put us in almost 30 minutes late!!!
Then they had to wait for the bus to arrive to take us all to the other end of Terminal 5. Oh, well, missed the connection to Paris! BA is good, nice man quickly put us on another flight that left in half hour, so we still had to run! The new flight went into Orly instead of Charles de Gaulle - so with Rick's help we had to mastermind plans to get into the city from there. During the 50 minutes bus ride, I recalled taking that same Air France bus back in 1969 and 1971. So, then we're off the bus, onto the Metro for 2 stops - and we are home on Rue Cler. This is our 5th visit to our favorite neighborhood. The twinkling Eiffel Tower is nearby and so is our favorite cafe. And with all the air delays we only had a 30 minute delay getting into our hotel. All is well and wine and food are waiting.
Then they had to wait for the bus to arrive to take us all to the other end of Terminal 5. Oh, well, missed the connection to Paris! BA is good, nice man quickly put us on another flight that left in half hour, so we still had to run! The new flight went into Orly instead of Charles de Gaulle - so with Rick's help we had to mastermind plans to get into the city from there. During the 50 minutes bus ride, I recalled taking that same Air France bus back in 1969 and 1971. So, then we're off the bus, onto the Metro for 2 stops - and we are home on Rue Cler. This is our 5th visit to our favorite neighborhood. The twinkling Eiffel Tower is nearby and so is our favorite cafe. And with all the air delays we only had a 30 minute delay getting into our hotel. All is well and wine and food are waiting.
Late in the evening:
Confit du Canard - favorite dish in our favorite Cafe Marche on Rue Cler. Fried duck, fried potatoes and salad. Ah, and there was wine too! And a walk to the Eiffel Tower.Then finally, sleep in a bed instead of an airplane seat!
May 31, 2011
France 2011
HERE WE GO AGAIN!We are off to Paris and then the south of France. Please follow along and enjoy the trip!
Itinerary:
Paris - 3 days
Avignon - 2 days
Aix-en-Provence - 3 days
Cassis - 2 days
St. Tropez - 2 days
Villefrance - 2 days
Nice - 4 days
I will try to post photos, you will see the links on the right side of the page. I have albums set up and ready to go, depending on upload speeds. If that doesn't work out, I will post photos in the blog as I did for Italy.
Please remember that if you leave a comment and put yourself as "anonymous", please put your first name of initials after the text of your comment so I know who it is from!!
There are new webcams and French music in The Box.
Also, please feed the fish while I am gone - it keeps the cat busy watching them swim around.
Talk to you while we are on the road......or in the air, or on the tracks!
June 01, 2010
Next trip
Plans are already in the works. France and the Riviera, definitely Nice and St. Tropez.....
American Airlines and British Airways
Despite the cabin crew strike, British Airways quickly booked us on a flight from Milan to JFK; then from JFK to BWI on American Airlines, on the same day we expected to leave. Pretty nifty, since we had paid for our seats with our BA miles.
I wasn't able to book online because all I had was a booking reference from BA. And, perhaps I could have if I had remembered by AA ID and password; but since it has been many years since I used it I didn't remember. We didn't even have an e-ticket; however when we got to the desk at check-in, and I told them BA had booked us, they found us right away. We are sitting in the middle of the plane - however in Row 11 - so it is not quite as awful as being in the tail of the plane - and at least we are sitting next to one anothe and aren't quite packed in like sardines. We have to get our bags at JFK to clear customs, but we already have our boarding passes for connecting AA flight home; so once clearing customs we can use the fast bag drop. Onward flight has us both in window seats, Jim in row 2 and me behind in row 3. Again, at least we are in forward section of plane. Bad deal: it is American Eagle. Prop plane no doubt. It is against my religion to fly on prop planes. First and last time we did this was on the way home from Jamaica; I swore never again to arrive in JFK and fly American home. If you are reading this on the blog, you know we made it home and the propellers didn't stop working. Prefer jets, thank you.
We are in the middle of our flight and have already decided we do not like the long haul up front. It is just great leaving city in Europe early in the morning, flying into Heathrow, doing a bit a shopping, getting an English bite to eat and checking bags through to BWI. This is a real pain. Bags have to be picked up at JFK for customs/immigration/security, have to drop them off, find our gate, do all this stuff while dead tired and still get on another flight. So we won't intentionally ever do this again. Also, even though this is same plane (767) it is configured differently, there is more leg room - seats are tiny bit wider. Good you think? Nope. Seats do not recline as much as on BA 767, nor do they have fancy headrest where you can tilt the sides down and rest your head. There is no TV in front of me (on the back of the seat in front of me) , nor can I choose movies, TV shows, music videos that I would like to watch. I am stuck with whatever they want to show which happens to be dumb stuff. We both have our own ear buds, but if we didn't, they want to sell them to you. BA offers head sets for free. We do have a blanket & pillow, the meal was free, yucky and not enough. BA has better food. BA gives you free alcoholic beverages and also wine. One would have to pay and we didn't. I am bored silly. Like to have my gin & tonic, wine , watch movies and take a nap. Watched 3 episodes of Harry Potter on way home last time. I've played solitaire on my iPod, wrote this info for blog. Read all the magazines.
We shall see how the rest of this plays out. So far we are not crazy about flying into USA and tranferring. Always like to transfer in Europe - which is what makes BA ideal. Due to this snafu with the strike, I am not able to pick up my plum pudding from Harrods for Christmas dinner OR my Glenmorangie Scotch from duty free. Major disappointment!!
Landed in JFK, actually got through everything rather quickly, and walked back out to the gate to board the American Eagle flight home. Lo and behold! Jet engines!!! Not only that, my window seat (and Jim's behind me) is a single seat, across from the galley and about 15 ft from the pilot --
Really great, boarded at 3:10, pulled away from the gate 10 minutes early - actual flight time 38 minutes - actual time to get out of JFK - don't ask. At 4:10 we were still waiting to get up to our runway, a few minutes afterwards pilot announces that we are to go back to gate for get more fuel. Were we going to BWI on fumes???? Due to thunderstorms, we are being rerouted and needed more fuel. So, we were supposed to land at 5:30pm and we are now just at cruising level. No way to let Beth know, who will we waiting for us at 5:30pm, paying the high hourly parking rate. So, sort of count on AA not always having a full tank.
Thanks to Beth, our land pilot, we are home safe and sound.
I wasn't able to book online because all I had was a booking reference from BA. And, perhaps I could have if I had remembered by AA ID and password; but since it has been many years since I used it I didn't remember. We didn't even have an e-ticket; however when we got to the desk at check-in, and I told them BA had booked us, they found us right away. We are sitting in the middle of the plane - however in Row 11 - so it is not quite as awful as being in the tail of the plane - and at least we are sitting next to one anothe and aren't quite packed in like sardines. We have to get our bags at JFK to clear customs, but we already have our boarding passes for connecting AA flight home; so once clearing customs we can use the fast bag drop. Onward flight has us both in window seats, Jim in row 2 and me behind in row 3. Again, at least we are in forward section of plane. Bad deal: it is American Eagle. Prop plane no doubt. It is against my religion to fly on prop planes. First and last time we did this was on the way home from Jamaica; I swore never again to arrive in JFK and fly American home. If you are reading this on the blog, you know we made it home and the propellers didn't stop working. Prefer jets, thank you.
We are in the middle of our flight and have already decided we do not like the long haul up front. It is just great leaving city in Europe early in the morning, flying into Heathrow, doing a bit a shopping, getting an English bite to eat and checking bags through to BWI. This is a real pain. Bags have to be picked up at JFK for customs/immigration/security, have to drop them off, find our gate, do all this stuff while dead tired and still get on another flight. So we won't intentionally ever do this again. Also, even though this is same plane (767) it is configured differently, there is more leg room - seats are tiny bit wider. Good you think? Nope. Seats do not recline as much as on BA 767, nor do they have fancy headrest where you can tilt the sides down and rest your head. There is no TV in front of me (on the back of the seat in front of me) , nor can I choose movies, TV shows, music videos that I would like to watch. I am stuck with whatever they want to show which happens to be dumb stuff. We both have our own ear buds, but if we didn't, they want to sell them to you. BA offers head sets for free. We do have a blanket & pillow, the meal was free, yucky and not enough. BA has better food. BA gives you free alcoholic beverages and also wine. One would have to pay and we didn't. I am bored silly. Like to have my gin & tonic, wine , watch movies and take a nap. Watched 3 episodes of Harry Potter on way home last time. I've played solitaire on my iPod, wrote this info for blog. Read all the magazines.
We shall see how the rest of this plays out. So far we are not crazy about flying into USA and tranferring. Always like to transfer in Europe - which is what makes BA ideal. Due to this snafu with the strike, I am not able to pick up my plum pudding from Harrods for Christmas dinner OR my Glenmorangie Scotch from duty free. Major disappointment!!
Landed in JFK, actually got through everything rather quickly, and walked back out to the gate to board the American Eagle flight home. Lo and behold! Jet engines!!! Not only that, my window seat (and Jim's behind me) is a single seat, across from the galley and about 15 ft from the pilot --
Really great, boarded at 3:10, pulled away from the gate 10 minutes early - actual flight time 38 minutes - actual time to get out of JFK - don't ask. At 4:10 we were still waiting to get up to our runway, a few minutes afterwards pilot announces that we are to go back to gate for get more fuel. Were we going to BWI on fumes???? Due to thunderstorms, we are being rerouted and needed more fuel. So, we were supposed to land at 5:30pm and we are now just at cruising level. No way to let Beth know, who will we waiting for us at 5:30pm, paying the high hourly parking rate. So, sort of count on AA not always having a full tank.
Thanks to Beth, our land pilot, we are home safe and sound.
May 30, 2010
Thoughts on travel in Italy
So, our holiday in Italy is at it's end. Beautiful sights, wonderful food, fantastic wine, nice people. Mostly everyone, even in remote areas spoke some English. Many were quite fluent in English. Only an occasional person spoke only a few English words.
We have been to Italy before, so we were expecting loud, quick moving pace. We sooned learned however, that standing in line for a boat, bus or anything at all, meant nothing. One could be standing in line for 30 minutes waiting for a means of transportation to have folks walk up and go right in front of you. If you are wondering if this was because we were not Italian, that isn't the case. They all push and shove in front of one another. German folks push in front of every one too. If you stand and wait like you have good sense, you will lose. So, after about 4 to 5 days we learned to push and shove our way to whatever it was we wanted - even gelato!! This morning at the airport, where one usually is expected to queue up for British Airways, we found ourselves waiting for boarding at American Airlines - and noted that if this was England they would be killed for not abiding by the queue rules.
They stand in the middle of busy sidewalks and have conversations - we learned to plow right past them, sometimes through them. Push them aside and ride your wheeled luggage over their feet - it's what one does to get around. By all means, stop and fuss over a baby or young child of any age. Babies are sacred, must be fussed over, patted on the head and are definitely show stoppers. One baby can stop traffic anywhere - for all friends to stop and fuss.
Toilets. For the most part the hole in the ground Turkish toilets are minimal. Times have changed. However, now there are porcelan bowls, about 12 inches off the ground and with flushable water. No toilet seats - even in the fancy Vatican facilites. Most of the them flush only half the time; some Italian lady came out of a stall where I was waiting - fussing, making gestures it wouldn't flush. Toilet paper - smart travelers carry a roll with them, or a least a pack of tissues. Even in cafe rest rooms, toilet paper can be a non entity. Some co-ed toilets - individual stalls, everyone comes out and washes hands together. Being a savvy traveler, I was able to show a male traveler how to turn on the spigot - with the foot pedal of course!! Apparently some folks are not used to flushing at all - one had to go in behind them and flush first before using. These were Italian folks - who just aren't used to bathroom faciities as we know them. It was always a relief to get back to our hotel or B&B where there was a toilet as we know it. However, even in your hotel room, bright light is not always a priority. And, towels do get thinner as you go further south.
Pickpockets and thieves: while I bought our rail tickets for our trip from the ticket machines, Jim guarded our bags and kept waving away the thieves that try to steal your tickets. Polizia sort of just watch them. All train stations, tourist areas, have signs saying watch your bags, be careful of pickpockets. A man at our hotel had his wallet stollen on the Circumvesuviana train. Poor dude just didn't know he shouldn't carry a wallet at all!!
Tickets. Want to buy a ticket for a bus to go across country?? No where near where the bus is - one buys tickets at a tabacchi - but not necessarily the one near where the buses pull in. Could be 1/4 mile away - missed bus one morning for trying to locate the right one. Buses come in and park, and it's anyone's guess as to what bus yours will be - and it might be early or it might be late - or they might tell you it is not going at all despite posted times.
On time: what's that? If your train does arrive on time, don't expect it to get to your destination on time. Oh, hope you don't have connecting train.... Why isn't the bus or boat leaving, where's the driver??? Sitting across the road in the shade having a smoke. Simple explanation.
Big coach brings you into town where there is supposed to be small shuttle. Yup, there is the shuttle, there is the driver and there is not schedule. Driver says " No Go".
Food: just beyond belief, the freshest tomato sauce - really cooked tomatoes, olive oil, maybe a little fresh basil. One can easily just come to Italy to eat great food and see beautiful things.
Wi-fi access: they don't advertise as having it. If you ask, perhaps they do! Or, in some places charge 6 euro an hour. Some charge to use their computer, many were amazed that I had laptop with me! It's not something Italian folks seem to do. Even last 4 star hotel in Milan - wi-fi was free if you had own computer; they charged you to use theirs.
Traffic. Red lights are a suggestion. If you want to cross street - just walk out in front of them. Watch out for the Vespa's or scooters on the sidewalk; if you want to get someplace, just go - or you would be waiting to cross all day. Best bet on busy street, walk out behind a pregnant woman or a nun - if you need to feel safe. Once you get the hang of it, you too could cross the street in Napoli.
Gelato: one gets used to buying it was proprietor's that make their own...... it does make a difference!!
Organization: there is none. No order to anything - Malpensa airport was great example; it amazed me that we even got up in the air at all - 15 minutes late of course! We have used Linate in the past - did not seem quite a chaotic as Malpensa. British Airways can board a 767 in less than 30 minutes - we have done it. It wasn't American Airlines ( we don't think) , but theI talian staff - just no organization. What has surprised us on the whole trip is the comparison to Greece.
When we went to Greece we expected it to be very different from the rest of Europe. However, they are very organized, have buses which take you from one town to another where the next bus is waiting for you. Bus drivers sell tickets, or you buy them in a kiosk right next to bus stand. They are very traveler friendly. Everyone in Greece had wi-fi, bright bathrooms, and toilet seats!! We were amazed that Italy is still back where it was many years ago with no changes made to join the modern world.
I can now buy train tickets in Italian - bought the tickets for going all over the country at the local machines. I also know can use the ATM (Bancomat) machines that don't have English translation. And, I can buy gelato if they don't speak English. All the important things.....
So, go to Italy! Eat, drink and join the chaos - and don't be in a hurry!!
We have been to Italy before, so we were expecting loud, quick moving pace. We sooned learned however, that standing in line for a boat, bus or anything at all, meant nothing. One could be standing in line for 30 minutes waiting for a means of transportation to have folks walk up and go right in front of you. If you are wondering if this was because we were not Italian, that isn't the case. They all push and shove in front of one another. German folks push in front of every one too. If you stand and wait like you have good sense, you will lose. So, after about 4 to 5 days we learned to push and shove our way to whatever it was we wanted - even gelato!! This morning at the airport, where one usually is expected to queue up for British Airways, we found ourselves waiting for boarding at American Airlines - and noted that if this was England they would be killed for not abiding by the queue rules.
They stand in the middle of busy sidewalks and have conversations - we learned to plow right past them, sometimes through them. Push them aside and ride your wheeled luggage over their feet - it's what one does to get around. By all means, stop and fuss over a baby or young child of any age. Babies are sacred, must be fussed over, patted on the head and are definitely show stoppers. One baby can stop traffic anywhere - for all friends to stop and fuss.
Toilets. For the most part the hole in the ground Turkish toilets are minimal. Times have changed. However, now there are porcelan bowls, about 12 inches off the ground and with flushable water. No toilet seats - even in the fancy Vatican facilites. Most of the them flush only half the time; some Italian lady came out of a stall where I was waiting - fussing, making gestures it wouldn't flush. Toilet paper - smart travelers carry a roll with them, or a least a pack of tissues. Even in cafe rest rooms, toilet paper can be a non entity. Some co-ed toilets - individual stalls, everyone comes out and washes hands together. Being a savvy traveler, I was able to show a male traveler how to turn on the spigot - with the foot pedal of course!! Apparently some folks are not used to flushing at all - one had to go in behind them and flush first before using. These were Italian folks - who just aren't used to bathroom faciities as we know them. It was always a relief to get back to our hotel or B&B where there was a toilet as we know it. However, even in your hotel room, bright light is not always a priority. And, towels do get thinner as you go further south.
Pickpockets and thieves: while I bought our rail tickets for our trip from the ticket machines, Jim guarded our bags and kept waving away the thieves that try to steal your tickets. Polizia sort of just watch them. All train stations, tourist areas, have signs saying watch your bags, be careful of pickpockets. A man at our hotel had his wallet stollen on the Circumvesuviana train. Poor dude just didn't know he shouldn't carry a wallet at all!!
Tickets. Want to buy a ticket for a bus to go across country?? No where near where the bus is - one buys tickets at a tabacchi - but not necessarily the one near where the buses pull in. Could be 1/4 mile away - missed bus one morning for trying to locate the right one. Buses come in and park, and it's anyone's guess as to what bus yours will be - and it might be early or it might be late - or they might tell you it is not going at all despite posted times.
On time: what's that? If your train does arrive on time, don't expect it to get to your destination on time. Oh, hope you don't have connecting train.... Why isn't the bus or boat leaving, where's the driver??? Sitting across the road in the shade having a smoke. Simple explanation.
Big coach brings you into town where there is supposed to be small shuttle. Yup, there is the shuttle, there is the driver and there is not schedule. Driver says " No Go".
Food: just beyond belief, the freshest tomato sauce - really cooked tomatoes, olive oil, maybe a little fresh basil. One can easily just come to Italy to eat great food and see beautiful things.
Wi-fi access: they don't advertise as having it. If you ask, perhaps they do! Or, in some places charge 6 euro an hour. Some charge to use their computer, many were amazed that I had laptop with me! It's not something Italian folks seem to do. Even last 4 star hotel in Milan - wi-fi was free if you had own computer; they charged you to use theirs.
Traffic. Red lights are a suggestion. If you want to cross street - just walk out in front of them. Watch out for the Vespa's or scooters on the sidewalk; if you want to get someplace, just go - or you would be waiting to cross all day. Best bet on busy street, walk out behind a pregnant woman or a nun - if you need to feel safe. Once you get the hang of it, you too could cross the street in Napoli.
Gelato: one gets used to buying it was proprietor's that make their own...... it does make a difference!!
Organization: there is none. No order to anything - Malpensa airport was great example; it amazed me that we even got up in the air at all - 15 minutes late of course! We have used Linate in the past - did not seem quite a chaotic as Malpensa. British Airways can board a 767 in less than 30 minutes - we have done it. It wasn't American Airlines ( we don't think) , but theI talian staff - just no organization. What has surprised us on the whole trip is the comparison to Greece.
When we went to Greece we expected it to be very different from the rest of Europe. However, they are very organized, have buses which take you from one town to another where the next bus is waiting for you. Bus drivers sell tickets, or you buy them in a kiosk right next to bus stand. They are very traveler friendly. Everyone in Greece had wi-fi, bright bathrooms, and toilet seats!! We were amazed that Italy is still back where it was many years ago with no changes made to join the modern world.
I can now buy train tickets in Italian - bought the tickets for going all over the country at the local machines. I also know can use the ATM (Bancomat) machines that don't have English translation. And, I can buy gelato if they don't speak English. All the important things.....
So, go to Italy! Eat, drink and join the chaos - and don't be in a hurry!!
Milan Day 1
Arrived on our last train from Monterosso around 2pm. Staying at 4-star hotel within sight of train station. This is a business hotel district and one can get a terrific room for good rates on the weekend, we have stayed here before. Tomorrow we will have short walk there to ride bus to Malpensa airport. We will get the 7:10 bus giving us enought time to check-in and clear security, as the bus ride is almost 1 hour.
We took the Metro to the Duomo, had been there before, but it's sort of the place to go. Today is Sunday, many places closed.
We returned to our hotel after watching a big May Day celebration by the Filipino community - little girls, and big ones in a May procession. Later we returned to the Galleria for our last big splurge dinner - we had Osso Bucco and Milanese rice - traditional dishes invented here. Our waiter took a photo, it is a bit blurry, but festive none the less.
Tomorrow we will learn what it is like on American Airlines. The owner of our hotel in Monterosso said they make you pay for everything. He once pay 6 euro for a beer, and he said it wasn't a very good beer. We are dressing warm, we are used to planes being cold, but we are used to our free booze and blankets on British Airways!!! We cannot check in on line, so hopefully we will get decent seats for the long haul to JFK. Wish us luck - we are spoiled British Airways customers!
May 29, 2010
Monterosso Day 3
After breakfast today we took a little stroll around the seafront, mostly sightseeing, people watching and a little shopping. Made dinner reservations and then returned to our room. Jim is sunning himself on our balcony - I washed his shirt which is drying on our balcony. This it Italy, a balcony without clothes drying is a barren sight.
We took a walk on the beach, got our feet wet in the Mediterranean Sea. Stopped for gelato on the way back and then later went out to dinner. Sitting on our balcony was like going to the movies - with the sea at our doorstep.
We took a walk on the beach, got our feet wet in the Mediterranean Sea. Stopped for gelato on the way back and then later went out to dinner. Sitting on our balcony was like going to the movies - with the sea at our doorstep.
Later, out to dinner at the Belvedere, where we had the house speciality. It's a big Grecian looking urn, that is a terra cotta crock. Inside are mussels, gameroni, a white fish, a lobster and a whole octopus. We have had this before in the past and it was just as wonderful. They serve 
toasted bread to soak in the broth. A most magnificent meal!!!!
toasted bread to soak in the broth. A most magnificent meal!!!!
Monterosso Day 2
Breakfast at our hotel was a rather extravagant affair with even Mortadella and brie - besides the usual. I was disappointed that there was no foccacia, despite their big spread. Ah, but you could have as much cafe as you wanted - a definite plus!
On the train again, 15 minutes up the road to town #1 Riomaggiore. After a brief visit, we headed over the easy trail, the Via dell'Amore which leads right into town #2 Manarola. After a brief stop for a piece of foccacia (I had been deprived earlier), we headed up to the cemetary - for the fantastic views of the town. After a photo shoot, we decended down, on the train again and over to Vernazza.
On the train again, 15 minutes up the road to town #1 Riomaggiore. After a brief visit, we headed over the easy trail, the Via dell'Amore which leads right into town #2 Manarola. After a brief stop for a piece of foccacia (I had been deprived earlier), we headed up to the cemetary - for the fantastic views of the town. After a photo shoot, we decended down, on the train again and over to Vernazza.
Lunch in Vernazza - pizza with pesto! We ate our pizza and drank our Coke at the harbor, then walked around the corner to the rocks - where one can sunbathe - or sit and cool off your feet. I chose the later, and after my desinated rock time, left Jim there and went off shopping. A few souvenirs - bags of trofie (pasta only available in this shape here in Ligure region), a tiny jar of pesto for myself as Jim doesn't like it and couple other small things for those at home.
Back on the train, 5 minuto and we are home in Monterosso. A brief rest on the balcony, shower (when you shut the water off it still sounds like it's on (it's the sea!) - and while stepping out of the shower you can not only hear but see the Mediterranean practically at our doorstep.
Last night before leaving Vernazza we made reservations for Gambero Rosso's, next door to Gianni's. We will leave here in a little while for drinks on the harbor before we eat at Gambero's. Vernazza's harbor is tiny, faces the square - all of this I'm talking about is tucked in a tiny little area.....and this is the beauty of my most favorite place.
Monterosso Day 1
Trained from Firenze to Pisa, changed trains and here we are in Monterosso! This is always by far, the best part of our trips. This year we went to a new hotel because our old one wasn't free one of the nights we planned to be here.
Best hotel here that we have stayed in......our balcony opens up with a view of the beach and the sea. We are listening to the surf and can see #4 town, my favorite Vernazza, in the distance.
We walked only minutes from train to hotel, greeted by the manager who took us upstairs to this magnificent room; she told us (one is always TOLD in Italy) to bring down our documents (passports) and she would give us a glass of wine. Nice touch because most hotels want them immediately and one must dig them out of the money belt, getting half undressed in the lobby. It's the law, they need your passport information or they get fined. We did as she said, then were sat at the little bar, given a glass of wine and some Italian bar snacks - pretzels, other crunchy things. We asked for her to make dinner reservations at Gianni Franzi's for us tonight - this is my favorite restaurant in the whole world. It is over in Vernazza. She checked the train schedule to make sure we could get back before last train. The old gentlemen who owns the hotel asked us what time, we told him 7:30 or 8pm - only saying 7:30 because we knew we didn't want to miss 10:30 train. He said "you go at 8". Yes sir, we know 7:30 is too early to eat in Italy. We are going to eat at 8pm as we were told.
We already know where we are going to eat the next 2 nights; even Ella, the manager, told us we should eat the Belvedere on our last night. We have been there before, and plan to mind and go eat there on our last night. That one is here in Monterosso. Tomorrow we will go to Gambero Rosso's, our other Vernazza favorite which is next door to Gianni's on the square.
After our glass of wine, and discussion of next year's plan down to which room we shouod stay in - we went off to lunch at my favorite lunch spotl. Even got to sit at the same table - always ordered the same thing - Insalada Caprese, white wine. Local wine is white, you drink white wine here. A bit of stroll through the tiny town, then back to hotel for a rest, showers and getting ready to go off to Vernazza. 5 min train trip between towns - there is a treacherous hiking trail - forget that! Besides, there are notices around town that it is closed due to landslide. Train if fine - it comes eventully - they do however have schedules!
Addendum to above: 
Ah, Vernazza harbor and dinner at Gianni's - trofie pesto as primi platti for me, mussels with spahetti for Jim; and he haad the baby octupus and I had the gamberoni. I knew what I wanted before I sat down, my "usual". After a fine meal with 2 bottles of Gianni's wine, we hopped back on the train to Monterosso at 10: 40pm. Not only did we see the sunset over the Mediterranean while at Gianni's, there was a full moon.
Back on our balcony, Jim poured a glass of wine, but I had other ideas. I could through this little computer into the gelati stand outside our balcony. In fact, I could my flavor from here--BUT, already know what flavor! 3 minutes later I was back on the balcony with my cioccolatto gelato. We slept with the balcony doors open, listening to the sea.
Ah, Vernazza harbor and dinner at Gianni's - trofie pesto as primi platti for me, mussels with spahetti for Jim; and he haad the baby octupus and I had the gamberoni. I knew what I wanted before I sat down, my "usual". After a fine meal with 2 bottles of Gianni's wine, we hopped back on the train to Monterosso at 10: 40pm. Not only did we see the sunset over the Mediterranean while at Gianni's, there was a full moon.Back on our balcony, Jim poured a glass of wine, but I had other ideas. I could through this little computer into the gelati stand outside our balcony. In fact, I could my flavor from here--BUT, already know what flavor! 3 minutes later I was back on the balcony with my cioccolatto gelato. We slept with the balcony doors open, listening to the sea.
Firenze Day 1 (and only day)
Off to train station - actually first one has to ride the funniculaire down to the train station. Get the train to Firenze. Arrive, find our B&B. I knew that Katti House had rooms and then apartments. Annamaria Apts run by the mother; Katti House run by the daughter. When we got there, Maria took us to a room in the apartments. Big, spacious, very nice - except the wi-fi access is down the street at Katti House.
This was the day we were to find out if our flight from LHR to BWI was cancelled. Of course it was. We can fly from Milan to LHR, but no way to get to BWI. I found this out when we checked in at Katti House, quick pulled out little mini to access BA. Well, flight cancelled it said. After we walked down the street and Maria ran through the check of keys - takes 3 locks to get to us! in our room at the apartment!! ..... I called British Airways in London. Calls were quickly disconnected - lines too busy. I called BA in USA.....same thing. Busy, Busy. I called the BA Executive Club in USA - YES! Larry answered the phone!!! Told him I was in Italy, flight to Milan good, flight to BWI cancelled. It took him forever it seemed, but then he said "can you leave from Malpensa??" YES! We'll get there I told him. Milan has 2 airports, Linate and Malpensa - we were due to leave from Linate.
In a matter of minutes, he said he cancelled first flight from Milan, put us on a longhaul flight from Milan Malpensa to JFK in NYC. Then another flight from JFK to BWI - arriving 2 hours earlier that we had planned. This was our only option if we wanted to leave on May 31st as planned. Well, good job Larry! Good job BA - mind you, this is all with using our free miles - no fussing over whether or not we are paying customers! We are Excutive Club members - hooray!!!
Before dinner tonight I went back to Katti House with mini - and verified on the BA web site that all was cool - and the flights were confirmed.
This afternoon after getting the air tickets settled, we took a walk and saw the Duomo, and the Ponte Vecchio; walked past the shopping areas - had lunch at a pub - with Italian beer of course! This is a layover for us to prevent a 5-6 hr train ride. Tomorrow we shall leave for the Cinqueterre - we are both excited about returning.
Katti had recommended a ristorante close to where our room is - we had an early dinner at 7:30pm and then returned back to our room. Jim had tripe and I had pasta and a salad and we had our bottle of house wine, served up in a straw bottle. We are dead tired from the Civita da Bahnoregio experience yesteray and Firenze to us is just another big city. So, an early night - we were in at 10pm! This was a good place to layover for the night.
Tomorrow - Monterosso and dinner in Vernazza at Gianni Franzi's - my most favorite place in the whole world!
Today is Beth's bithday!! Happy Birthday Beth!
This was the day we were to find out if our flight from LHR to BWI was cancelled. Of course it was. We can fly from Milan to LHR, but no way to get to BWI. I found this out when we checked in at Katti House, quick pulled out little mini to access BA. Well, flight cancelled it said. After we walked down the street and Maria ran through the check of keys - takes 3 locks to get to us! in our room at the apartment!! ..... I called British Airways in London. Calls were quickly disconnected - lines too busy. I called BA in USA.....same thing. Busy, Busy. I called the BA Executive Club in USA - YES! Larry answered the phone!!! Told him I was in Italy, flight to Milan good, flight to BWI cancelled. It took him forever it seemed, but then he said "can you leave from Malpensa??" YES! We'll get there I told him. Milan has 2 airports, Linate and Malpensa - we were due to leave from Linate.
In a matter of minutes, he said he cancelled first flight from Milan, put us on a longhaul flight from Milan Malpensa to JFK in NYC. Then another flight from JFK to BWI - arriving 2 hours earlier that we had planned. This was our only option if we wanted to leave on May 31st as planned. Well, good job Larry! Good job BA - mind you, this is all with using our free miles - no fussing over whether or not we are paying customers! We are Excutive Club members - hooray!!!
Before dinner tonight I went back to Katti House with mini - and verified on the BA web site that all was cool - and the flights were confirmed.
This afternoon after getting the air tickets settled, we took a walk and saw the Duomo, and the Ponte Vecchio; walked past the shopping areas - had lunch at a pub - with Italian beer of course! This is a layover for us to prevent a 5-6 hr train ride. Tomorrow we shall leave for the Cinqueterre - we are both excited about returning.
Katti had recommended a ristorante close to where our room is - we had an early dinner at 7:30pm and then returned back to our room. Jim had tripe and I had pasta and a salad and we had our bottle of house wine, served up in a straw bottle. We are dead tired from the Civita da Bahnoregio experience yesteray and Firenze to us is just another big city. So, an early night - we were in at 10pm! This was a good place to layover for the night.
Tomorrow - Monterosso and dinner in Vernazza at Gianni Franzi's - my most favorite place in the whole world!
Today is Beth's bithday!! Happy Birthday Beth!
Orvieto Day 2
We got up at 6:30am to get to the bus station for the 8:50am bus. Not bad, the walk was down hill. Foggy in the morning, and of course, unable to see too far ahead, and of course, this is Italy. There is no bus station, just a parking lot for the buses. Where do you buy tickets?? 3 minuto up there says the woman at the bar.....so we went to the next tabacch and she says "over there". By the time we found the correct tabacchi (tobacconist/newstand that sells tickets) we had missed the bus. No other bus until 12:45. So, we thought, OK, we'll go then - and just come back late.
Spent the morning walking the ramparts and taking photos, stopped for a coffee and then went to get bus tickets. Tickets in hand we went to get the bus - in the parking lot. 1 hour later, we found ourselves in Bagnoregio - looking for the little shuttle bus that will ride us up the hill to the bridge to Civita. Civita is a hilltown with no cars, it's only access is a pedestrian bridge, straight up hill. We knew that. So, we went to get shuttle bus - there it is - bus driver says no go up the hill - we are standing in front of the schedule - he says "no go until 3:15 ." So, how stupid, people come into town and shuttle bus doesn.t leave at the time - the Greeks would be appalled. One bus always met the other. But, yes we are in Italy. So, Rick says the walk to the bridge is 20 minutes. We know to double Rick's times --- so we headed out straight uphill for what seems forever. Half dead when we got to the steps leading to the bridge. Lucky for this other couple we ran into that we at least knew where the steps were. After walking uphill for 45 minutes, we then went down too many steps to count. Ah-ha! The bridge!! So straight up the hill on a little bridge over a ravine. I looked at my feet the entire way, holding onto Jim and somehow we got there. Exhausted, half dead, first thing we did was stop to get lunch; shared the table with that other couple. Brushetta misti and a Schweppes limone for me; Jim had a sandwich. Then it was off for a brief tour of tiny Civita.
Tour done in 10 minutes and then it was a matter of going down the bridge. That accomplished, we then had to walk 45 minutes to get back to the bus. Most of the early part of the walk uphill, then downhill, then uphill. Hills like you have never known. We've never ran into anything as steep in Switzerland.
Exhausted, finally back on the bus.....hour ride back to Orvieto, arrive at 6:30pm - to have to walk uphll again to our B&B. Well, after Civita's hills, Orvieto is now a piece of cake!!! We arrived back, showered and then out to dinner. Tonight it was boar stew! We are eating and drinking local!
Early to bed.....to make our way to Firenze in the morning.
Spent the morning walking the ramparts and taking photos, stopped for a coffee and then went to get bus tickets. Tickets in hand we went to get the bus - in the parking lot. 1 hour later, we found ourselves in Bagnoregio - looking for the little shuttle bus that will ride us up the hill to the bridge to Civita. Civita is a hilltown with no cars, it's only access is a pedestrian bridge, straight up hill. We knew that. So, we went to get shuttle bus - there it is - bus driver says no go up the hill - we are standing in front of the schedule - he says "no go until 3:15 ." So, how stupid, people come into town and shuttle bus doesn.t leave at the time - the Greeks would be appalled. One bus always met the other. But, yes we are in Italy. So, Rick says the walk to the bridge is 20 minutes. We know to double Rick's times --- so we headed out straight uphill for what seems forever. Half dead when we got to the steps leading to the bridge. Lucky for this other couple we ran into that we at least knew where the steps were. After walking uphill for 45 minutes, we then went down too many steps to count. Ah-ha! The bridge!! So straight up the hill on a little bridge over a ravine. I looked at my feet the entire way, holding onto Jim and somehow we got there. Exhausted, half dead, first thing we did was stop to get lunch; shared the table with that other couple. Brushetta misti and a Schweppes limone for me; Jim had a sandwich. Then it was off for a brief tour of tiny Civita.
Tour done in 10 minutes and then it was a matter of going down the bridge. That accomplished, we then had to walk 45 minutes to get back to the bus. Most of the early part of the walk uphill, then downhill, then uphill. Hills like you have never known. We've never ran into anything as steep in Switzerland.
Exhausted, finally back on the bus.....hour ride back to Orvieto, arrive at 6:30pm - to have to walk uphll again to our B&B. Well, after Civita's hills, Orvieto is now a piece of cake!!! We arrived back, showered and then out to dinner. Tonight it was boar stew! We are eating and drinking local!
Early to bed.....to make our way to Firenze in the morning.
May 24, 2010
Orvieo Day 1
Surprise - we have the internet here! It's not advertised - we are staying in Valentina's B&B, only 6 rooms - the door are not even numbered, you just have to remember which door is yours!
This is fantastic hill town, one must ride funicular up from the train station into the town. Then we walked up hill over cobblestones with our suitcases until we found the little street with our B&B. Very tiny town, with it's main sight being the Duomo and Etruscan caves. We are chosing to get an early bus tomorrow to take us to Civita di Bagnoregio. It is a dying hill town with only 2 residents, that is if they are still alive! There is no access except on foot over a pedestrian bridge. Wish me luck getting there!
Tonight we had dinner at Antico Bucchero - a place that serves game. We ate outside and I had smoked goose with salad greens and shaved parmesan and Jim had eggplant paremsan - these were appetizers. For secondi (aka main course) we both had rabbit. Terrific meal with bottle of wine and espresso which came to only 54 euro.
Orvieto rolls in it's sidewalks early - so we are in early with plan for an early day tomorrow. We still have to walk the ramparts of the town, Jim may want to see St. Patricks well......you must look up Orvieto is you want to know the history. Don't count on me to give it to you!!!
This is fantastic hill town, one must ride funicular up from the train station into the town. Then we walked up hill over cobblestones with our suitcases until we found the little street with our B&B. Very tiny town, with it's main sight being the Duomo and Etruscan caves. We are chosing to get an early bus tomorrow to take us to Civita di Bagnoregio. It is a dying hill town with only 2 residents, that is if they are still alive! There is no access except on foot over a pedestrian bridge. Wish me luck getting there!
Tonight we had dinner at Antico Bucchero - a place that serves game. We ate outside and I had smoked goose with salad greens and shaved parmesan and Jim had eggplant paremsan - these were appetizers. For secondi (aka main course) we both had rabbit. Terrific meal with bottle of wine and espresso which came to only 54 euro.
Orvieto rolls in it's sidewalks early - so we are in early with plan for an early day tomorrow. We still have to walk the ramparts of the town, Jim may want to see St. Patricks well......you must look up Orvieto is you want to know the history. Don't count on me to give it to you!!!
May 23, 2010
Sorrento Day 4
Visited Isola Capri today -
One gets to and from Iosa Capri (pronounced Khap-ree) by boat. We took a tour around the island in a 30 ft. boat and eventually came to the Grotta Azzurra. The famous Bue Grotto. One then waits in line while men in row boats come out to meet your boat, you climb from your 30 ft boat into row boat. We waited 45 minutes untill our boat had it's turn. After climbing into the row boat, you are taken over to another boat which is the ticket office! Your oar man takes your money and pays your admission. Then you go into a little hole in the rock wall - duck your head and are rowed around in a circle for about 5 mintes - your are in the pitch dark - snapping photos as quickly as you can of the blue water.. Then before you know it, you are ducking your head and out in the open again. Amazing. It was pretty - but the experience of doing it and knowing they are making all this money from tourists to see this is even more amazing. One pays 14 euro for the boat ride there, then pays another 11 euro to go into the grotto and then the oarmen beg tips. They are very helpful getting you into and out of boat - so small tip is not too bad.
We had lunch at a side walk cafe, I had pizza Margherita and Jim had proscuitto and cheese. The fresh mozzarella on his sandwich must have been 3/4 in thick. Wine and Italian birra. And then soon, after a bit of strolling past designer shops and our boat ride back to Sorrento.
We were so impressed with the food and prices at last night's ristoranti that we returned again. Jim did the pasta puttanesca again and I had the Carbonara (bacon, egg, cream). Tonight we did the fish special, it was a Mediterranean tuna type fish - tasted much like what we know as tuna. It was very moist and swimming in the cherry tomato sauce. I had a Sambucca, Jim had a Strega and we both had espresso. Then we went strolling for our last night in Sorrento.
One gets to and from Iosa Capri (pronounced Khap-ree) by boat. We took a tour around the island in a 30 ft. boat and eventually came to the Grotta Azzurra. The famous Bue Grotto. One then waits in line while men in row boats come out to meet your boat, you climb from your 30 ft boat into row boat. We waited 45 minutes untill our boat had it's turn. After climbing into the row boat, you are taken over to another boat which is the ticket office! Your oar man takes your money and pays your admission. Then you go into a little hole in the rock wall - duck your head and are rowed around in a circle for about 5 mintes - your are in the pitch dark - snapping photos as quickly as you can of the blue water.. Then before you know it, you are ducking your head and out in the open again. Amazing. It was pretty - but the experience of doing it and knowing they are making all this money from tourists to see this is even more amazing. One pays 14 euro for the boat ride there, then pays another 11 euro to go into the grotto and then the oarmen beg tips. They are very helpful getting you into and out of boat - so small tip is not too bad.
We had lunch at a side walk cafe, I had pizza Margherita and Jim had proscuitto and cheese. The fresh mozzarella on his sandwich must have been 3/4 in thick. Wine and Italian birra. And then soon, after a bit of strolling past designer shops and our boat ride back to Sorrento.
We were so impressed with the food and prices at last night's ristoranti that we returned again. Jim did the pasta puttanesca again and I had the Carbonara (bacon, egg, cream). Tonight we did the fish special, it was a Mediterranean tuna type fish - tasted much like what we know as tuna. It was very moist and swimming in the cherry tomato sauce. I had a Sambucca, Jim had a Strega and we both had espresso. Then we went strolling for our last night in Sorrento.
May 22, 2010
Sorrento Day 3
Took the boat to Amalfi this morning, had lunch and then toured the town. Lunch of course was a salami-cheese sandwich for Jim and tomato/mozzarella brushetta for me. Yummy. We took the bus back, up and down winding, tight turns - white knuckle is how it is usually described. Terrific scenery, well worth the trip.
Aperitif's will be had tonight in a place called the Foreigner's Club which over looks Bay of Naples - complete with view of Mt Vesuvius. Then we shall search for the perfect restaurant for dinner. Tomorrow - the isle of Capri.
This is the lifestyle of the rich and famous section of our holiday -
Addendum: After return to from the Amalfi coast we had dinner at a sidewalk ristorante. Homemade pasta, puttanesca with tomatoes, capers and olives. Jim had the fish of the day which was a white cod-like fish, in cherry tomato sauce. Cherry tomato sauce is basically little tomatoes simmered with a bit of olive oil. No relation to any tomato sauce at home. I had the sardines, precious little fish, again no relation to the kind in the can at home. They were prepared whole and deep fried, sort of like eating french fries, and of course, one eats the whole fish, head and all. One of my favorite Italian seaside meals. After dinner in Sorrento, one strolls along the main street which is closed to traffice from 7:30pm until?? People window shop, buy things and just stroll along.
Aperitif's will be had tonight in a place called the Foreigner's Club which over looks Bay of Naples - complete with view of Mt Vesuvius. Then we shall search for the perfect restaurant for dinner. Tomorrow - the isle of Capri.
This is the lifestyle of the rich and famous section of our holiday -
Addendum: After return to from the Amalfi coast we had dinner at a sidewalk ristorante. Homemade pasta, puttanesca with tomatoes, capers and olives. Jim had the fish of the day which was a white cod-like fish, in cherry tomato sauce. Cherry tomato sauce is basically little tomatoes simmered with a bit of olive oil. No relation to any tomato sauce at home. I had the sardines, precious little fish, again no relation to the kind in the can at home. They were prepared whole and deep fried, sort of like eating french fries, and of course, one eats the whole fish, head and all. One of my favorite Italian seaside meals. After dinner in Sorrento, one strolls along the main street which is closed to traffice from 7:30pm until?? People window shop, buy things and just stroll along.
May 21, 2010
Sorrento Day 2
Last night we had dinner in a garden, sort of a lemon grove. They had the big outdoor heaters to keep us warm, and it was beautiful. Birds chirping, BIG lemons on the trees - a gorgeous spot and wonderful meal. I had stuffed zucchini blossoms - I've never tasted anything so terrific. We both had local cod with cherry tomatoes and eggplant in a light tomato sauce with cheese. Again, the eggplant was a side dish, nothing tastes the same as home. Everything has such a fresh taste, needs no seasoning. Ahhhh
This morning after breakfast we walked to the dock and got a boat to Napoli. We took Rick's walking tour through the city. Graffiti, wild driving, and chaos. Oh, and the birthplace of pizza - it was terrific. We ordered the one with ham, basil, tomato sauce and an egg in the middle. I haven't had pizza with an egg in the middle for 40 years! And of course, when I say "ham", it's
nothing like what you are thinking about (unless you are Italian).
This morning after breakfast we walked to the dock and got a boat to Napoli. We took Rick's walking tour through the city. Graffiti, wild driving, and chaos. Oh, and the birthplace of pizza - it was terrific. We ordered the one with ham, basil, tomato sauce and an egg in the middle. I haven't had pizza with an egg in the middle for 40 years! And of course, when I say "ham", it's
nothing like what you are thinking about (unless you are Italian). After a 3-4 hr walk through the city, and a stop for pizza and birra, we walked back to the dock for the boat back to Sorrento.
We stopped for some cheese, salami and bread and will have our own appetizers on our balcony, if it isn't too chilly. Then it will be out to dinner. Another dining adventure!
May 20, 2010
Sorrento Day 1
This was last morning for Roman breakfast. We are getting train to Naples at 10AM, then will be getting the commuter train to Sorrento where we will be staying for 4 days.
Survived coming through Naples and arrived in Sorrento. Palm trees, sunshine and an occasional
shower so far. It's beautiful, on the edge of a cliff. Tomorrow we will either go to Capri or the Amalfi coast. We went to the TI to get schedules for the boats and bus - just need to decide what to do and where to go what day!
After lunch of pizza Margherita and wine, we stopped at a wine shop and saw Lacrima Cristi!! Holy cow! It's been years since I've seen a bottle. We of course brought a bottle back to our room. We spent a little time strolling through the tiny cobblestone streets with lots of shops. Lemons, lemons, lemons are everywhere. Groves, wild trees, on dishes, in limoncello! I'll have some of that later! Beautiful cliff side views of the sea, restaurants on the edge - great place for a drink and after dinner coffee.
May 19, 2010
Rome Day 3
Took the Metro to the Vatican, went to see the Sistine Chapel while everyone else was seeing the pope. No lines! By the time we were finished at the Vatican Museum, he was finished with the crowds and we got to go inside St. Peter's. Always gorgeous inside, photos don't do it justice.
Walked to nearby Castel Sant'Angelo - and the Bridge of Angels......been inside 40 yrs ago, just took more photos today. It's beautiful and very impressive.
Stopped at side walk cafe for pizza & wine/beer before heading back to the Metro to come home. Just got inside when thunderstorm hit - so now by the time we are ready to go out the rain has gone! We will go to eat near the Trevi, and I will toss coin for one last time.
Tomorrow we train out at 10am - to head into Naples where we will take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento. Again, back to where we won't know if there will be internet access there or not, but I certainly hope so. Even so, will write what we are doing and upload when the opportunity does arise!
Walked to nearby Castel Sant'Angelo - and the Bridge of Angels......been inside 40 yrs ago, just took more photos today. It's beautiful and very impressive.Stopped at side walk cafe for pizza & wine/beer before heading back to the Metro to come home. Just got inside when thunderstorm hit - so now by the time we are ready to go out the rain has gone! We will go to eat near the Trevi, and I will toss coin for one last time.
Tomorrow we train out at 10am - to head into Naples where we will take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento. Again, back to where we won't know if there will be internet access there or not, but I certainly hope so. Even so, will write what we are doing and upload when the opportunity does arise!
May 18, 2010
Roma Day 2
Walked to Campo dei Fiori this morning, saw the flower market and other vendors. The square will magically turn into restaurants this evening, we shall return for dinner.This photo is one of Bernini's fantastic fountains in the Piazza Navona. While here we stopped at the Tre Scalini, pretending we were Susanne Pleshette and Troy Donahue. One of you will understand the importance of being there. I had the tartuffo and Jim had wine. We continued on to the Pantheon and then back to the Trevi to toss another coin. We walked home by the way of via Rasella, past the Hotel Bernini, formerly the Hotel Atlas. Does this front door look familiar to anyone??????
To update this evening - on the way to dinner we passed Vittorio Emmanuele monument and stopped at Capitoline Hill on the way home. Jim figured we walked 10 hrs altogether today.
Therefore, the spaghetti carbonara and grilled veggies that I had with all the wine and bread did not have any calories.
In early tonight at 11pm, we brough a bottle of wine back with us, and Jim is sipping while I am blogging. More tomorrow as we go to the Vatican.
May 17, 2010
Roma Day1
Eurostar Italia got us here in 4 hours. It is raining. Good news is free wi-fi - at least for the next few days. Weather dunno looka gooda. Will check in later with update of further events this evening.
Rain is gone. There is nothing else to say......see photo. Coin #1 in, have 2 more days to go to ask the fountain to bless one of them!
Rain is gone. There is nothing else to say......see photo. Coin #1 in, have 2 more days to go to ask the fountain to bless one of them!
This is the most beautiful sight on earth.
We had dinner in our old Rome neighborhood near the fountain. Spaghetti in olive oil and garlic and Saltimbocca alla Romana. Wine!!
I can hear you singing Three Coins in the Fountain.......I can say my coins have always been blessed - this is my 4th trip to Rome.
I can hear you singing Three Coins in the Fountain.......I can say my coins have always been blessed - this is my 4th trip to Rome.
Venice Day 2
Woke up to birds chirping. Well, make that the Venice version of chirping bird - a loud pigeon cooing outside our window. Church bells ringing, it is Sunday. Cappucino and rolls for breakfast.The sun was out! No rain! We walked all morning, and then Jim finally got his gondola ride! We bought sandwiches, drinks for lunch and went back to sit at the little tables in front of our B&B. After a brief rest, we walked through some old neighborhoods where we had stayed before and then over to the Rialto Bridge. Back at Piazza San Marco we went up the Bell Tower, got some great photos and then back down again before 5pm when the bells rang! 5pm - cocktail time! Sipping Campari and wine sitting in the piazza with the orchestra playing - a worthwhile splurge as Rick puts it!
New local restaurant tonight, Al Giardinetto. Being good backdoortravelers, we are staying away from the tourist places and going on the recommendation of staff from our B&B. We shared a seafood appetizer with calamari, octopus, snails, shrimp and some sea creatures we couldn' t identify. Jim had veal "alla Giardinetto" which was in a mushroom sauce. I had the typical calves liver and onions, Venezian style. It was wonderful, served with polenta. And again, we shared a plate of grilled vegetables. Oh, let's not forget the bottle of Valpolicella! Then we were off to San Marco, for a drink and to enjoy the orchestra for the last time. I surprised the waiter when I asked for Strega!
Written in Venice on Sunday, May 16, 2010: no internet access because Sandy is still too cheap to pay $6/day for wi-fi access. Off to Rome in the morning, where I will pay if it is not free.
Venice Day 1
Due to severe thunderstoms, all airports were closed on the east coast Friday evening. The flight due in at 7:30, which would turn around and take us to LHR was diverted to Boston. Long story short, it didn,t come in until 11:30pm and our 9:05pm departure was delayed until 12:45. Given British Airways credit, the nornal turnaround time of 90 minutes was shorter, and the captain even came over to chat with us, and they served soda/water. Since we wouldn't make it over to Gatwick in time for our Venice flight, they booked us on the next flight out to Venice. It all ended well, but caused much confusion. After landing in LHR (finally) we had to go queue up to see about the new booking, get our bags, clear customs, get the bus and get to Gatwick. 45 minutes later, we are checking in at Gatwick, making our way through security and walking the necessary 5 miles (or so it seems) through the airport to our gate and then finally arrived at our gate when they started boarding. The woman who checked us in at Gatwick, told us our seats would be separate on the flight - we told her it didn't matter. She got on the phone, and made arrangements for us to have not only seats together but a window seat so we could see the beauty of flying into Venice. Well, it IS an awesome sight, but not when it is cloudy and rainy. Oh well, she tried!
2 hours later we arrived in Venice at 7:10pm. After clearing customs, finding out the bancomat at the airport wouldn,t give us any euros, we walked in the misty rain for 10 minutes to the dock to get the water bus to take us into the city. Somewhere around 10pm, after a bit of searching through many twisting calles (streets) we ended up at Casa Querini, our B&c. 15 min later we were at a nearby trattoria, Antica Sacrestina for dinner. We had only tea/coffee on the plane before landing at LHR, had planned for lunch at Gatwick, but no time for lunch - so we were starving! We had the spahetti house special, thick with cream, porcini mushrooms and truffles. grilled vegetables on the side (carrots, fennel, artichoke, asparagus, eggplant) and the required bottle of house wine. 2 hours later, well after midnight, we finally got to bed.
Written in Venice on Saturday, May 15, 2010: no internet access because Sandy is too cheap to pay $6/day for wi-fi access
May 14, 2010
Leaving comments
If you leave a comment as "anonymous", please put your first name or initials after the text - except for a few folks who I can definitely tell who it's from, I don't know who is leaving the comment!! My crystal ball is in for repair.....
May 13, 2010
ITALY 2010
Tomorrow we head to Venice for the first stop on our Italian holiday. In Greece there was free internet everywhere, even in the smallest of hotels or B&B's. It doesn't seem like it will be so in Italy, but blog will be updated as internet is available. Preferably free internet in the hotels! Also, hope to upload large amounts of photos; if that isn't possible, will put a few here on the blog.
Also hoping that the rainy weather that's been all over Europe will give way to sunny skies. We haven't been back to Venice or Rome since we went digital, so looking forward to great new photos.
This years schedule:
Venice 2 nights
Rome 3 nights
Sorrento 4 nights - with visits to Amalfi Coast, Capri, and Naples
Orvieto 2 nights
Florence 1 night
Monterosso 3 nights
Milano 1 night......
and then, depending on the British Airways cabin crew strike, we will come home or NOT!
PS: there's new Italian music in The Box
August 30, 2009
Sir Cliff Richard
Many years ago, this is how I first saw Cliff Richard and the Shadows, but only on the movie screen.
Wasn't it just yesterday?
Having seen Cliff in person twice before, I never had any idea I would be so lucky to actually see him and the Shadows perform.
Then, all of a sudden, there was great news.......
In September we will be headed to England, to see the 50th anniversary reunion of Cliff and the Shads! We all look a little older - but the music will sound the same.
That's Bruce Welch, Hank Marvin, Cliff, and Brian Bennett. Cliff is otherwise known these days as Sir Cliff Richard.
May 26, 2009
Home
Athens airport gives you 45 min free wi-fi - but apparently you have to change many computer settings which they give detailed instructions to do. I thought I would just forget it.
I am p0sting this from home, where we arrived in the house at 9pm last night. Horrors, doesn't seem late but we were on 4:30am Greece time! Flights were good, smooth and friendly as always with British Airways. I will eventually edit, add more photos and eventually caption them - of course, they are only my photos. There will be more photos and video added for an eventual DVD - in the future. Meanwhile, planning September trip to see Clif Richard in London and contemplating where we would like to go next year!
I am p0sting this from home, where we arrived in the house at 9pm last night. Horrors, doesn't seem late but we were on 4:30am Greece time! Flights were good, smooth and friendly as always with British Airways. I will eventually edit, add more photos and eventually caption them - of course, they are only my photos. There will be more photos and video added for an eventual DVD - in the future. Meanwhile, planning September trip to see Clif Richard in London and contemplating where we would like to go next year!
final night in Greece
Well, we’ve paid 40 euro a night for a room and had wi-fi in Naxos and had wonderful breakfast. Imagine paying big bucks for hotel across from airport and they want you to pay for both breakfast and wi-fi! Ha! Well, wi-fi is free in the bar, but we brought our own bottle of wine from Nafplio!
We arrived arround 4pm, dropped off by bus in front of Departures. I went into airport, printed out our boarding passes for tomorrow morning, then we walked over to hotel, checked in, took our bags to our room and then went back into airport for lunch. We’ll relax for awhile, then have our wine and snack mix before walking back over to airport. No wi-fi in room, but robes and slippers and a shower big enough for 3 people -- that rains down on you from the ceiling. Satellite TV - phone in bathroom, 2 phones in bedroom - in case you are too lazy to get up and answer the one on the table by the bed. Window faces the runaway - that’s your entertainment. We are on the 6th floor - French restaurant facing the lighted runways is on the 9th floor. Entrees cost more than we paid for whole meals on the trip!! So, we will dine at the airport!
We arrived arround 4pm, dropped off by bus in front of Departures. I went into airport, printed out our boarding passes for tomorrow morning, then we walked over to hotel, checked in, took our bags to our room and then went back into airport for lunch. We’ll relax for awhile, then have our wine and snack mix before walking back over to airport. No wi-fi in room, but robes and slippers and a shower big enough for 3 people -- that rains down on you from the ceiling. Satellite TV - phone in bathroom, 2 phones in bedroom - in case you are too lazy to get up and answer the one on the table by the bed. Window faces the runaway - that’s your entertainment. We are on the 6th floor - French restaurant facing the lighted runways is on the 9th floor. Entrees cost more than we paid for whole meals on the trip!! So, we will dine at the airport!
May 24, 2009
Returning to Athens for last day in Greece
We spent our last evening in Nafplio last night. Woke up this morning, first thing was to check-in on line. How territic that is! On flight to Athens and from LHR to home, we had been assigned to row 38. I moved us up to row 7 from Athens to Heathrow, and row 16 on outbound flight home. We are able to get the seats by the bulk head on the way home, so will not have seats in front of us - more legroom!!
Door open this morning, heard woman who runs place talking - she was feeding the little box turtle who lives in the garden - he had sliced apples. Right friendly little fellow, walks around and just looks at you, not at all timid.
This was really our last traditional Greek breakfast. We have to be out of here at noon. Then we will slowly walk down the steps and down the hill. Good thing about staying in hilltown is that it is an easy exit.
Coming from Athens to here took little over 2 hrs, we are unsure about time back, maybe much longer. Interesting thing about hill towns - depending on which way you are going - travel times are different. When we went into Fira on Santorini, it took 1 hr to get up the mountain into town. Leaving it took 15 min!!! It was all downhill. Leaving here we will have to go uphill - we are figuring it will b slow long ride to get the big bus up the hill! It doesn't really matter since flight is not until early tomorrow. We have nothing to do today - just finished breakfast at 10 am! Going home will be a rude awakening!
Door open this morning, heard woman who runs place talking - she was feeding the little box turtle who lives in the garden - he had sliced apples. Right friendly little fellow, walks around and just looks at you, not at all timid.
This was really our last traditional Greek breakfast. We have to be out of here at noon. Then we will slowly walk down the steps and down the hill. Good thing about staying in hilltown is that it is an easy exit.
Coming from Athens to here took little over 2 hrs, we are unsure about time back, maybe much longer. Interesting thing about hill towns - depending on which way you are going - travel times are different. When we went into Fira on Santorini, it took 1 hr to get up the mountain into town. Leaving it took 15 min!!! It was all downhill. Leaving here we will have to go uphill - we are figuring it will b slow long ride to get the big bus up the hill! It doesn't really matter since flight is not until early tomorrow. We have nothing to do today - just finished breakfast at 10 am! Going home will be a rude awakening!
May 23, 2009
Nafplio - Day 3
Yesterday we walked around the harbor to the local beach - stone beach like in Nice, France - doesn't bother me, I acutally prefer it to the awful sand experience. Later we had dinner at a little taverna on the Square - children were playing in the Square - fun watching them - they parents could have a drink and relax while they rode their little bikes or played football (soccer). We didn't even pick our meal from the menu, the owner asked if we wanted me or fish, asked us if we liked pork and then insisted we have his special. Dinner was to die for - roasted pork, stuffed tomatoes and vine leaves. I don't think I've eaten so much at one meal since we've been here!! After returning home to our patio with a bottle of wine, the girl who runs the place gave us a plate of watermelon - had no intention of eating it until we tasted it! Fruit here has true flavor, tastes better than anything we would consider the best at home.
Both yesterday and today I visited an Italian owned gelateria - and had my favorite dark chocolate gelati. Yes, it was the true thing - best I've tasted since having it at my favorite place in Venice. I just don't like any gelati - it has to be just right!! Yesterday we sat inside to eat it and who was singing on the radio but Eros Ramazzotti!! I felt right at home!
Jim went to beach today, I shopped a bit and sat at the harbor with my gelati. Tonight we shall have our last Greek meal - as I'm sure whatever we get tomorrow night at the hotel near the airport will not be the same quality, definitely not the same atmosphere!!! We have not had one meal inside since we left home! Every night it has been at a side walk cafe.
Both yesterday and today I visited an Italian owned gelateria - and had my favorite dark chocolate gelati. Yes, it was the true thing - best I've tasted since having it at my favorite place in Venice. I just don't like any gelati - it has to be just right!! Yesterday we sat inside to eat it and who was singing on the radio but Eros Ramazzotti!! I felt right at home!
Jim went to beach today, I shopped a bit and sat at the harbor with my gelati. Tonight we shall have our last Greek meal - as I'm sure whatever we get tomorrow night at the hotel near the airport will not be the same quality, definitely not the same atmosphere!!! We have not had one meal inside since we left home! Every night it has been at a side walk cafe.
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