France 2011

HERE WE GO AGAIN!

We are off to Paris and then the south of France. Please follow along and enjoy the trip!
Itinerary:
Paris - 3 days
Avignon - 2 days
Aix-en-Provence - 3 days
Cassis - 2 days
St. Tropez - 2 days
Villefrance - 2 days
Nice - 4 days

I will try to post photos, you will see the links on the right side of the page. I have albums set up and ready to go, depending on upload speeds. If that doesn't work out, I will post photos in the blog as I did for Italy.
Please remember that if you leave a comment and put yourself as "anonymous", please put your first name of initials after the text of your comment so I know who it is from!!
There are new webcams and French music in The Box.
Also, please feed the fish while I am gone - it keeps the cat busy watching them swim around.

Talk to you while we are on the road......or in the air, or on the tracks!

Next trip

Plans are already in the works. France and the Riviera, definitely Nice and St. Tropez.....

American Airlines and British Airways

Despite the cabin crew strike, British Airways quickly booked us on a flight from Milan to JFK; then from JFK to BWI on American Airlines, on the same day we expected to leave. Pretty nifty, since we had paid for our seats with our BA miles.

I wasn't able to book online because all I had was a booking reference from BA. And, perhaps I could have if I had remembered by AA ID and password; but since it has been many years since I used it I didn't remember. We didn't even have an e-ticket; however when we got to the desk at check-in, and I told them BA had booked us, they found us right away. We are sitting in the middle of the plane - however in Row 11 - so it is not quite as awful as being in the tail of the plane - and at least we are sitting next to one anothe and aren't quite packed in like sardines. We have to get our bags at JFK to clear customs, but we already have our boarding passes for connecting AA flight home; so once clearing customs we can use the fast bag drop. Onward flight has us both in window seats, Jim in row 2 and me behind in row 3. Again, at least we are in forward section of plane. Bad deal: it is American Eagle. Prop plane no doubt. It is against my religion to fly on prop planes. First and last time we did this was on the way home from Jamaica; I swore never again to arrive in JFK and fly American home. If you are reading this on the blog, you know we made it home and the propellers didn't stop working. Prefer jets, thank you.

We are in the middle of our flight and have already decided we do not like the long haul up front. It is just great leaving city in Europe early in the morning, flying into Heathrow, doing a bit a shopping, getting an English bite to eat and checking bags through to BWI. This is a real pain. Bags have to be picked up at JFK for customs/immigration/security, have to drop them off, find our gate, do all this stuff while dead tired and still get on another flight. So we won't intentionally ever do this again. Also, even though this is same plane (767) it is configured differently, there is more leg room - seats are tiny bit wider. Good you think? Nope. Seats do not recline as much as on BA 767, nor do they have fancy headrest where you can tilt the sides down and rest your head. There is no TV in front of me (on the back of the seat in front of me) , nor can I choose movies, TV shows, music videos that I would like to watch. I am stuck with whatever they want to show which happens to be dumb stuff. We both have our own ear buds, but if we didn't, they want to sell them to you. BA offers head sets for free. We do have a blanket & pillow, the meal was free, yucky and not enough. BA has better food. BA gives you free alcoholic beverages and also wine. One would have to pay and we didn't. I am bored silly. Like to have my gin & tonic, wine , watch movies and take a nap. Watched 3 episodes of Harry Potter on way home last time. I've played solitaire on my iPod, wrote this info for blog. Read all the magazines.

We shall see how the rest of this plays out. So far we are not crazy about flying into USA and tranferring. Always like to transfer in Europe - which is what makes BA ideal. Due to this snafu with the strike, I am not able to pick up my plum pudding from Harrods for Christmas dinner OR my Glenmorangie Scotch from duty free. Major disappointment!!

Landed in JFK, actually got through everything rather quickly, and walked back out to the gate to board the American Eagle flight home. Lo and behold! Jet engines!!! Not only that, my window seat (and Jim's behind me) is a single seat, across from the galley and about 15 ft from the pilot --

Really great, boarded at 3:10, pulled away from the gate 10 minutes early - actual flight time 38 minutes - actual time to get out of JFK - don't ask. At 4:10 we were still waiting to get up to our runway, a few minutes afterwards pilot announces that we are to go back to gate for get more fuel. Were we going to BWI on fumes???? Due to thunderstorms, we are being rerouted and needed more fuel. So, we were supposed to land at 5:30pm and we are now just at cruising level. No way to let Beth know, who will we waiting for us at 5:30pm, paying the high hourly parking rate. So, sort of count on AA not always having a full tank.

Thanks to Beth, our land pilot, we are home safe and sound.

Thoughts on travel in Italy

So, our holiday in Italy is at it's end. Beautiful sights, wonderful food, fantastic wine, nice people. Mostly everyone, even in remote areas spoke some English. Many were quite fluent in English. Only an occasional person spoke only a few English words.

We have been to Italy before, so we were expecting loud, quick moving pace. We sooned learned however, that standing in line for a boat, bus or anything at all, meant nothing. One could be standing in line for 30 minutes waiting for a means of transportation to have folks walk up and go right in front of you. If you are wondering if this was because we were not Italian, that isn't the case. They all push and shove in front of one another. German folks push in front of every one too. If you stand and wait like you have good sense, you will lose. So, after about 4 to 5 days we learned to push and shove our way to whatever it was we wanted - even gelato!! This morning at the airport, where one usually is expected to queue up for British Airways, we found ourselves waiting for boarding at American Airlines - and noted that if this was England they would be killed for not abiding by the queue rules.

They stand in the middle of busy sidewalks and have conversations - we learned to plow right past them, sometimes through them. Push them aside and ride your wheeled luggage over their feet - it's what one does to get around. By all means, stop and fuss over a baby or young child of any age. Babies are sacred, must be fussed over, patted on the head and are definitely show stoppers. One baby can stop traffic anywhere - for all friends to stop and fuss.

Toilets. For the most part the hole in the ground Turkish toilets are minimal. Times have changed. However, now there are porcelan bowls, about 12 inches off the ground and with flushable water. No toilet seats - even in the fancy Vatican facilites. Most of the them flush only half the time; some Italian lady came out of a stall where I was waiting - fussing, making gestures it wouldn't flush. Toilet paper - smart travelers carry a roll with them, or a least a pack of tissues. Even in cafe rest rooms, toilet paper can be a non entity. Some co-ed toilets - individual stalls, everyone comes out and washes hands together. Being a savvy traveler, I was able to show a male traveler how to turn on the spigot - with the foot pedal of course!! Apparently some folks are not used to flushing at all - one had to go in behind them and flush first before using. These were Italian folks - who just aren't used to bathroom faciities as we know them. It was always a relief to get back to our hotel or B&B where there was a toilet as we know it. However, even in your hotel room, bright light is not always a priority. And, towels do get thinner as you go further south.

Pickpockets and thieves: while I bought our rail tickets for our trip from the ticket machines, Jim guarded our bags and kept waving away the thieves that try to steal your tickets. Polizia sort of just watch them. All train stations, tourist areas, have signs saying watch your bags, be careful of pickpockets. A man at our hotel had his wallet stollen on the Circumvesuviana train. Poor dude just didn't know he shouldn't carry a wallet at all!!

Tickets. Want to buy a ticket for a bus to go across country?? No where near where the bus is - one buys tickets at a tabacchi - but not necessarily the one near where the buses pull in. Could be 1/4 mile away - missed bus one morning for trying to locate the right one. Buses come in and park, and it's anyone's guess as to what bus yours will be - and it might be early or it might be late - or they might tell you it is not going at all despite posted times.

On time: what's that? If your train does arrive on time, don't expect it to get to your destination on time. Oh, hope you don't have connecting train.... Why isn't the bus or boat leaving, where's the driver??? Sitting across the road in the shade having a smoke. Simple explanation.

Big coach brings you into town where there is supposed to be small shuttle. Yup, there is the shuttle, there is the driver and there is not schedule. Driver says " No Go".

Food: just beyond belief, the freshest tomato sauce - really cooked tomatoes, olive oil, maybe a little fresh basil. One can easily just come to Italy to eat great food and see beautiful things.

Wi-fi access: they don't advertise as having it. If you ask, perhaps they do! Or, in some places charge 6 euro an hour. Some charge to use their computer, many were amazed that I had laptop with me! It's not something Italian folks seem to do. Even last 4 star hotel in Milan - wi-fi was free if you had own computer; they charged you to use theirs.

Traffic. Red lights are a suggestion. If you want to cross street - just walk out in front of them. Watch out for the Vespa's or scooters on the sidewalk; if you want to get someplace, just go - or you would be waiting to cross all day. Best bet on busy street, walk out behind a pregnant woman or a nun - if you need to feel safe. Once you get the hang of it, you too could cross the street in Napoli.
Gelato: one gets used to buying it was proprietor's that make their own...... it does make a difference!!

Organization: there is none. No order to anything - Malpensa airport was great example; it amazed me that we even got up in the air at all - 15 minutes late of course! We have used Linate in the past - did not seem quite a chaotic as Malpensa. British Airways can board a 767 in less than 30 minutes - we have done it. It wasn't American Airlines ( we don't think) , but theI talian staff - just no organization. What has surprised us on the whole trip is the comparison to Greece.

When we went to Greece we expected it to be very different from the rest of Europe. However, they are very organized, have buses which take you from one town to another where the next bus is waiting for you. Bus drivers sell tickets, or you buy them in a kiosk right next to bus stand. They are very traveler friendly. Everyone in Greece had wi-fi, bright bathrooms, and toilet seats!! We were amazed that Italy is still back where it was many years ago with no changes made to join the modern world.

I can now buy train tickets in Italian - bought the tickets for going all over the country at the local machines. I also know can use the ATM (Bancomat) machines that don't have English translation. And, I can buy gelato if they don't speak English. All the important things.....

So, go to Italy! Eat, drink and join the chaos - and don't be in a hurry!!

Milan Day 1

Arrived on our last train from Monterosso around 2pm. Staying at 4-star hotel within sight of train station. This is a business hotel district and one can get a terrific room for good rates on the weekend, we have stayed here before. Tomorrow we will have short walk there to ride bus to Malpensa airport. We will get the 7:10 bus giving us enought time to check-in and clear security, as the bus ride is almost 1 hour.

We took the Metro to the Duomo, had been there before, but it's sort of the place to go. Today is Sunday, many places closed.

We returned to our hotel after watching a big May Day celebration by the Filipino community - little girls, and big ones in a May procession. Later we returned to the Galleria for our last big splurge dinner - we had Osso Bucco and Milanese rice - traditional dishes invented here. Our waiter took a photo, it is a bit blurry, but festive none the less.

Tomorrow we will learn what it is like on American Airlines. The owner of our hotel in Monterosso said they make you pay for everything. He once pay 6 euro for a beer, and he said it wasn't a very good beer. We are dressing warm, we are used to planes being cold, but we are used to our free booze and blankets on British Airways!!! We cannot check in on line, so hopefully we will get decent seats for the long haul to JFK. Wish us luck - we are spoiled British Airways customers!

Monterosso Day 3

After breakfast today we took a little stroll around the seafront, mostly sightseeing, people watching and a little shopping. Made dinner reservations and then returned to our room. Jim is sunning himself on our balcony - I washed his shirt which is drying on our balcony. This it Italy, a balcony without clothes drying is a barren sight.
We took a walk on the beach, got our feet wet in the Mediterranean Sea. Stopped for gelato on the way back and then later went out to dinner. Sitting on our balcony was like going to the movies - with the sea at our doorstep.

Later, out to dinner at the Belvedere, where we had the house speciality. It's a big Grecian looking urn, that is a terra cotta crock. Inside are mussels, gameroni, a white fish, a lobster and a whole octopus. We have had this before in the past and it was just as wonderful. They serve toasted bread to soak in the broth. A most magnificent meal!!!!

Monterosso Day 2

Breakfast at our hotel was a rather extravagant affair with even Mortadella and brie - besides the usual. I was disappointed that there was no foccacia, despite their big spread. Ah, but you could have as much cafe as you wanted - a definite plus!
On the train again, 15 minutes up the road to town #1 Riomaggiore. After a brief visit, we headed over the easy trail, the Via dell'Amore which leads right into town #2 Manarola. After a brief stop for a piece of foccacia (I had been deprived earlier), we headed up to the cemetary - for the fantastic views of the town. After a photo shoot, we decended down, on the train again and over to Vernazza.

Lunch in Vernazza - pizza with pesto! We ate our pizza and drank our Coke at the harbor, then walked around the corner to the rocks - where one can sunbathe - or sit and cool off your feet. I chose the later, and after my desinated rock time, left Jim there and went off shopping. A few souvenirs - bags of trofie (pasta only available in this shape here in Ligure region), a tiny jar of pesto for myself as Jim doesn't like it and couple other small things for those at home.
Back on the train, 5 minuto and we are home in Monterosso. A brief rest on the balcony, shower (when you shut the water off it still sounds like it's on (it's the sea!) - and while stepping out of the shower you can not only hear but see the Mediterranean practically at our doorstep.
Last night before leaving Vernazza we made reservations for Gambero Rosso's, next door to Gianni's. We will leave here in a little while for drinks on the harbor before we eat at Gambero's. Vernazza's harbor is tiny, faces the square - all of this I'm talking about is tucked in a tiny little area.....and this is the beauty of my most favorite place.
　

Monterosso Day 1

Trained from Firenze to Pisa, changed trains and here we are in Monterosso! This is always by far, the best part of our trips. This year we went to a new hotel because our old one wasn't free one of the nights we planned to be here.

Best hotel here that we have stayed in......our balcony opens up with a view of the beach and the sea. We are listening to the surf and can see #4 town, my favorite Vernazza, in the distance.
We walked only minutes from train to hotel, greeted by the manager who took us upstairs to this magnificent room; she told us (one is always TOLD in Italy) to bring down our documents (passports) and she would give us a glass of wine. Nice touch because most hotels want them immediately and one must dig them out of the money belt, getting half undressed in the lobby. It's the law, they need your passport information or they get fined. We did as she said, then were sat at the little bar, given a glass of wine and some Italian bar snacks - pretzels, other crunchy things. We asked for her to make dinner reservations at Gianni Franzi's for us tonight - this is my favorite restaurant in the whole world. It is over in Vernazza. She checked the train schedule to make sure we could get back before last train. The old gentlemen who owns the hotel asked us what time, we told him 7:30 or 8pm - only saying 7:30 because we knew we didn't want to miss 10:30 train. He said "you go at 8". Yes sir, we know 7:30 is too early to eat in Italy. We are going to eat at 8pm as we were told.
We already know where we are going to eat the next 2 nights; even Ella, the manager, told us we should eat the Belvedere on our last night. We have been there before, and plan to mind and go eat there on our last night. That one is here in Monterosso. Tomorrow we will go to Gambero Rosso's, our other Vernazza favorite which is next door to Gianni's on the square.
After our glass of wine, and discussion of next year's plan down to which room we shouod stay in - we went off to lunch at my favorite lunch spotl. Even got to sit at the same table - always ordered the same thing - Insalada Caprese, white wine. Local wine is white, you drink white wine here. A bit of stroll through the tiny town, then back to hotel for a rest, showers and getting ready to go off to Vernazza. 5 min train trip between towns - there is a treacherous hiking trail - forget that! Besides, there are notices around town that it is closed due to landslide. Train if fine - it comes eventully - they do however have schedules!

Addendum to above: Ah, Vernazza harbor and dinner at Gianni's - trofie pesto as primi platti for me, mussels with spahetti for Jim; and he haad the baby octupus and I had the gamberoni. I knew what I wanted before I sat down, my "usual". After a fine meal with 2 bottles of Gianni's wine, we hopped back on the train to Monterosso at 10: 40pm. Not only did we see the sunset over the Mediterranean while at Gianni's, there was a full moon.
Back on our balcony, Jim poured a glass of wine, but I had other ideas. I could through this little computer into the gelati stand outside our balcony. In fact, I could my flavor from here--BUT, already know what flavor! 3 minutes later I was back on the balcony with my cioccolatto gelato. We slept with the balcony doors open, listening to the sea.
　
　
　

Firenze Day 1 (and only day)

Off to train station - actually first one has to ride the funniculaire down to the train station. Get the train to Firenze. Arrive, find our B&B. I knew that Katti House had rooms and then apartments. Annamaria Apts run by the mother; Katti House run by the daughter. When we got there, Maria took us to a room in the apartments. Big, spacious, very nice - except the wi-fi access is down the street at Katti House.
This was the day we were to find out if our flight from LHR to BWI was cancelled. Of course it was. We can fly from Milan to LHR, but no way to get to BWI. I found this out when we checked in at Katti House, quick pulled out little mini to access BA. Well, flight cancelled it said. After we walked down the street and Maria ran through the check of keys - takes 3 locks to get to us! in our room at the apartment!! ..... I called British Airways in London. Calls were quickly disconnected - lines too busy. I called BA in USA.....same thing. Busy, Busy. I called the BA Executive Club in USA - YES! Larry answered the phone!!! Told him I was in Italy, flight to Milan good, flight to BWI cancelled. It took him forever it seemed, but then he said "can you leave from Malpensa??" YES! We'll get there I told him. Milan has 2 airports, Linate and Malpensa - we were due to leave from Linate.
In a matter of minutes, he said he cancelled first flight from Milan, put us on a longhaul flight from Milan Malpensa to JFK in NYC. Then another flight from JFK to BWI - arriving 2 hours earlier that we had planned. This was our only option if we wanted to leave on May 31st as planned. Well, good job Larry! Good job BA - mind you, this is all with using our free miles - no fussing over whether or not we are paying customers! We are Excutive Club members - hooray!!!
Before dinner tonight I went back to Katti House with mini - and verified on the BA web site that all was cool - and the flights were confirmed.
This afternoon after getting the air tickets settled, we took a walk and saw the Duomo, and the Ponte Vecchio; walked past the shopping areas - had lunch at a pub - with Italian beer of course! This is a layover for us to prevent a 5-6 hr train ride. Tomorrow we shall leave for the Cinqueterre - we are both excited about returning.
Katti had recommended a ristorante close to where our room is - we had an early dinner at 7:30pm and then returned back to our room. Jim had tripe and I had pasta and a salad and we had our bottle of house wine, served up in a straw bottle. We are dead tired from the Civita da Bahnoregio experience yesteray and Firenze to us is just another big city. So, an early night - we were in at 10pm! This was a good place to layover for the night.
Tomorrow - Monterosso and dinner in Vernazza at Gianni Franzi's - my most favorite place in the whole world!
Today is Beth's bithday!! Happy Birthday Beth!

Orvieto Day 2

We got up at 6:30am to get to the bus station for the 8:50am bus. Not bad, the walk was down hill. Foggy in the morning, and of course, unable to see too far ahead, and of course, this is Italy. There is no bus station, just a parking lot for the buses. Where do you buy tickets?? 3 minuto up there says the woman at the bar.....so we went to the next tabacch and she says "over there". By the time we found the correct tabacchi (tobacconist/newstand that sells tickets) we had missed the bus. No other bus until 12:45. So, we thought, OK, we'll go then - and just come back late.
Spent the morning walking the ramparts and taking photos, stopped for a coffee and then went to get bus tickets. Tickets in hand we went to get the bus - in the parking lot. 1 hour later, we found ourselves in Bagnoregio - looking for the little shuttle bus that will ride us up the hill to the bridge to Civita. Civita is a hilltown with no cars, it's only access is a pedestrian bridge, straight up hill. We knew that. So, we went to get shuttle bus - there it is - bus driver says no go up the hill - we are standing in front of the schedule - he says "no go until 3:15 ." So, how stupid, people come into town and shuttle bus doesn.t leave at the time - the Greeks would be appalled. One bus always met the other. But, yes we are in Italy. So, Rick says the walk to the bridge is 20 minutes. We know to double Rick's times --- so we headed out straight uphill for what seems forever. Half dead when we got to the steps leading to the bridge. Lucky for this other couple we ran into that we at least knew where the steps were. After walking uphill for 45 minutes, we then went down too many steps to count. Ah-ha! The bridge!! So straight up the hill on a little bridge over a ravine. I looked at my feet the entire way, holding onto Jim and somehow we got there. Exhausted, half dead, first thing we did was stop to get lunch; shared the table with that other couple. Brushetta misti and a Schweppes limone for me; Jim had a sandwich. Then it was off for a brief tour of tiny Civita.
Tour done in 10 minutes and then it was a matter of going down the bridge. That accomplished, we then had to walk 45 minutes to get back to the bus. Most of the early part of the walk uphill, then downhill, then uphill. Hills like you have never known. We've never ran into anything as steep in Switzerland.
Exhausted, finally back on the bus.....hour ride back to Orvieto, arrive at 6:30pm - to have to walk uphll again to our B&B. Well, after Civita's hills, Orvieto is now a piece of cake!!! We arrived back, showered and then out to dinner. Tonight it was boar stew! We are eating and drinking local!
Early to bed.....to make our way to Firenze in the morning.

Orvieo Day 1

Surprise - we have the internet here! It's not advertised - we are staying in Valentina's B&B, only 6 rooms - the door are not even numbered, you just have to remember which door is yours!

This is fantastic hill town, one must ride funicular up from the train station into the town. Then we walked up hill over cobblestones with our suitcases until we found the little street with our B&B. Very tiny town, with it's main sight being the Duomo and Etruscan caves. We are chosing to get an early bus tomorrow to take us to Civita di Bagnoregio. It is a dying hill town with only 2 residents, that is if they are still alive! There is no access except on foot over a pedestrian bridge. Wish me luck getting there!

Tonight we had dinner at Antico Bucchero - a place that serves game. We ate outside and I had smoked goose with salad greens and shaved parmesan and Jim had eggplant paremsan - these were appetizers. For secondi (aka main course) we both had rabbit. Terrific meal with bottle of wine and espresso which came to only 54 euro.

Orvieto rolls in it's sidewalks early - so we are in early with plan for an early day tomorrow. We still have to walk the ramparts of the town, Jim may want to see St. Patricks well......you must look up Orvieto is you want to know the history. Don't count on me to give it to you!!!

Sorrento Day 4

Visited Isola Capri today -
One gets to and from Iosa Capri (pronounced Khap-ree) by boat. We took a tour around the island in a 30 ft. boat and eventually came to the Grotta Azzurra. The famous Bue Grotto. One then waits in line while men in row boats come out to meet your boat, you climb from your 30 ft boat into row boat. We waited 45 minutes untill our boat had it's turn. After climbing into the row boat, you are taken over to another boat which is the ticket office! Your oar man takes your money and pays your admission. Then you go into a little hole in the rock wall - duck your head and are rowed around in a circle for about 5 mintes - your are in the pitch dark - snapping photos as quickly as you can of the blue water.. Then before you know it, you are ducking your head and out in the open again. Amazing. It was pretty - but the experience of doing it and knowing they are making all this money from tourists to see this is even more amazing. One pays 14 euro for the boat ride there, then pays another 11 euro to go into the grotto and then the oarmen beg tips. They are very helpful getting you into and out of boat - so small tip is not too bad.
We had lunch at a side walk cafe, I had pizza Margherita and Jim had proscuitto and cheese. The fresh mozzarella on his sandwich must have been 3/4 in thick. Wine and Italian birra. And then soon, after a bit of strolling past designer shops and our boat ride back to Sorrento.
We were so impressed with the food and prices at last night's ristoranti that we returned again. Jim did the pasta puttanesca again and I had the Carbonara (bacon, egg, cream). Tonight we did the fish special, it was a Mediterranean tuna type fish - tasted much like what we know as tuna. It was very moist and swimming in the cherry tomato sauce. I had a Sambucca, Jim had a Strega and we both had espresso. Then we went strolling for our last night in Sorrento.

Sorrento Day 3

Took the boat to Amalfi this morning, had lunch and then toured the town. Lunch of course was a salami-cheese sandwich for Jim and tomato/mozzarella brushetta for me. Yummy. We took the bus back, up and down winding, tight turns - white knuckle is how it is usually described. Terrific scenery, well worth the trip.
Aperitif's will be had tonight in a place called the Foreigner's Club which over looks Bay of Naples - complete with view of Mt Vesuvius. Then we shall search for the perfect restaurant for dinner. Tomorrow - the isle of Capri.
This is the lifestyle of the rich and famous section of our holiday -

Addendum: After return to from the Amalfi coast we had dinner at a sidewalk ristorante. Homemade pasta, puttanesca with tomatoes, capers and olives. Jim had the fish of the day which was a white cod-like fish, in cherry tomato sauce. Cherry tomato sauce is basically little tomatoes simmered with a bit of olive oil. No relation to any tomato sauce at home. I had the sardines, precious little fish, again no relation to the kind in the can at home. They were prepared whole and deep fried, sort of like eating french fries, and of course, one eats the whole fish, head and all. One of my favorite Italian seaside meals. After dinner in Sorrento, one strolls along the main street which is closed to traffice from 7:30pm until?? People window shop, buy things and just stroll along.

Sorrento Day 2

Last night we had dinner in a garden, sort of a lemon grove. They had the big outdoor heaters to keep us warm, and it was beautiful. Birds chirping, BIG lemons on the trees - a gorgeous spot and wonderful meal. I had stuffed zucchini blossoms - I've never tasted anything so terrific. We both had local cod with cherry tomatoes and eggplant in a light tomato sauce with cheese. Again, the eggplant was a side dish, nothing tastes the same as home. Everything has such a fresh taste, needs no seasoning. Ahhhh

This morning after breakfast we walked to the dock and got a boat to Napoli. We took Rick's walking tour through the city. Graffiti, wild driving, and chaos. Oh, and the birthplace of pizza - it was terrific. We ordered the one with ham, basil, tomato sauce and an egg in the middle. I haven't had pizza with an egg in the middle for 40 years! And of course, when I say "ham", it's nothing like what you are thinking about (unless you are Italian).

After a 3-4 hr walk through the city, and a stop for pizza and birra, we walked back to the dock for the boat back to Sorrento.
We stopped for some cheese, salami and bread and will have our own appetizers on our balcony, if it isn't too chilly. Then it will be out to dinner. Another dining adventure!

Sorrento Day 1

This was last morning for Roman breakfast. We are getting train to Naples at 10AM, then will be getting the commuter train to Sorrento where we will be staying for 4 days.

Survived coming through Naples and arrived in Sorrento. Palm trees, sunshine and an occasional
shower so far. It's beautiful, on the edge of a cliff. Tomorrow we will either go to Capri or the Amalfi coast. We went to the TI to get schedules for the boats and bus - just need to decide what to do and where to go what day!
After lunch of pizza Margherita and wine, we stopped at a wine shop and saw Lacrima Cristi!! Holy cow! It's been years since I've seen a bottle. We of course brought a bottle back to our room. We spent a little time strolling through the tiny cobblestone streets with lots of shops. Lemons, lemons, lemons are everywhere. Groves, wild trees, on dishes, in limoncello! I'll have some of that later! Beautiful cliff side views of the sea, restaurants on the edge - great place for a drink and after dinner coffee.

Rome Day 3

Took the Metro to the Vatican, went to see the Sistine Chapel while everyone else was seeing the pope. No lines! By the time we were finished at the Vatican Museum, he was finished with the crowds and we got to go inside St. Peter's. Always gorgeous inside, photos don't do it justice.
Walked to nearby Castel Sant'Angelo - and the Bridge of Angels......been inside 40 yrs ago, just took more photos today. It's beautiful and very impressive.

Stopped at side walk cafe for pizza & wine/beer before heading back to the Metro to come home. Just got inside when thunderstorm hit - so now by the time we are ready to go out the rain has gone! We will go to eat near the Trevi, and I will toss coin for one last time.

Tomorrow we train out at 10am - to head into Naples where we will take the Circumvesuviana train to Sorrento. Again, back to where we won't know if there will be internet access there or not, but I certainly hope so. Even so, will write what we are doing and upload when the opportunity does arise!

Roma Day 2

Walked to Campo dei Fiori this morning, saw the flower market and other vendors. The square will magically turn into restaurants this evening, we shall return for dinner.

This photo is one of Bernini's fantastic fountains in the Piazza Navona. While here we stopped at the Tre Scalini, pretending we were Susanne Pleshette and Troy Donahue. One of you will understand the importance of being there. I had the tartuffo and Jim had wine. We continued on to the Pantheon and then back to the Trevi to toss another coin. We walked home by the way of via Rasella, past the Hotel Bernini, formerly the Hotel Atlas. Does this front door look familiar to anyone??????

To update this evening - on the way to dinner we passed Vittorio Emmanuele monument and stopped at Capitoline Hill on the way home. Jim figured we walked 10 hrs altogether today.
Therefore, the spaghetti carbonara and grilled veggies that I had with all the wine and bread did not have any calories.

In early tonight at 11pm, we brough a bottle of wine back with us, and Jim is sipping while I am blogging. More tomorrow as we go to the Vatican.

Roma Day1

Eurostar Italia got us here in 4 hours. It is raining. Good news is free wi-fi - at least for the next few days. Weather dunno looka gooda. Will check in later with update of further events this evening.

Rain is gone. There is nothing else to say......see photo. Coin #1 in, have 2 more days to go to ask the fountain to bless one of them!

This is the most beautiful sight on earth.

We had dinner in our old Rome neighborhood near the fountain. Spaghetti in olive oil and garlic and Saltimbocca alla Romana. Wine!!
I can hear you singing Three Coins in the Fountain.......I can say my coins have always been blessed - this is my 4th trip to Rome.

Venice Day 2

Woke up to birds chirping. Well, make that the Venice version of chirping bird - a loud pigeon cooing outside our window. Church bells ringing, it is Sunday. Cappucino and rolls for breakfast.
The sun was out! No rain! We walked all morning, and then Jim finally got his gondola ride! We bought sandwiches, drinks for lunch and went back to sit at the little tables in front of our B&B. After a brief rest, we walked through some old neighborhoods where we had stayed before and then over to the Rialto Bridge. Back at Piazza San Marco we went up the Bell Tower, got some great photos and then back down again before 5pm when the bells rang! 5pm - cocktail time! Sipping Campari and wine sitting in the piazza with the orchestra playing - a worthwhile splurge as Rick puts it!
New local restaurant tonight, Al Giardinetto. Being good backdoortravelers, we are staying away from the tourist places and going on the recommendation of staff from our B&B. We shared a seafood appetizer with calamari, octopus, snails, shrimp and some sea creatures we couldn' t identify. Jim had veal "alla Giardinetto" which was in a mushroom sauce. I had the typical calves liver and onions, Venezian style. It was wonderful, served with polenta. And again, we shared a plate of grilled vegetables. Oh, let's not forget the bottle of Valpolicella! Then we were off to San Marco, for a drink and to enjoy the orchestra for the last time. I surprised the waiter when I asked for Strega!
Written in Venice on Sunday, May 16, 2010: no internet access because Sandy is still too cheap to pay $6/day for wi-fi access. Off to Rome in the morning, where I will pay if it is not free.

Venice Day 1

Due to severe thunderstoms, all airports were closed on the east coast Friday evening. The flight due in at 7:30, which would turn around and take us to LHR was diverted to Boston. Long story short, it didn,t come in until 11:30pm and our 9:05pm departure was delayed until 12:45. Given British Airways credit, the nornal turnaround time of 90 minutes was shorter, and the captain even came over to chat with us, and they served soda/water. Since we wouldn't make it over to Gatwick in time for our Venice flight, they booked us on the next flight out to Venice. It all ended well, but caused much confusion. After landing in LHR (finally) we had to go queue up to see about the new booking, get our bags, clear customs, get the bus and get to Gatwick. 45 minutes later, we are checking in at Gatwick, making our way through security and walking the necessary 5 miles (or so it seems) through the airport to our gate and then finally arrived at our gate when they started boarding. The woman who checked us in at Gatwick, told us our seats would be separate on the flight - we told her it didn't matter. She got on the phone, and made arrangements for us to have not only seats together but a window seat so we could see the beauty of flying into Venice. Well, it IS an awesome sight, but not when it is cloudy and rainy. Oh well, she tried!
2 hours later we arrived in Venice at 7:10pm. After clearing customs, finding out the bancomat at the airport wouldn,t give us any euros, we walked in the misty rain for 10 minutes to the dock to get the water bus to take us into the city. Somewhere around 10pm, after a bit of searching through many twisting calles (streets) we ended up at Casa Querini, our B&c. 15 min later we were at a nearby trattoria, Antica Sacrestina for dinner. We had only tea/coffee on the plane before landing at LHR, had planned for lunch at Gatwick, but no time for lunch - so we were starving! We had the spahetti house special, thick with cream, porcini mushrooms and truffles. grilled vegetables on the side (carrots, fennel, artichoke, asparagus, eggplant) and the required bottle of house wine. 2 hours later, well after midnight, we finally got to bed.
Written in Venice on Saturday, May 15, 2010: no internet access because Sandy is too cheap to pay $6/day for wi-fi access

Leaving comments

If you leave a comment as "anonymous", please put your first name or initials after the text - except for a few folks who I can definitely tell who it's from, I don't know who is leaving the comment!! My crystal ball is in for repair.....

ITALY 2010

Tomorrow we head to Venice for the first stop on our Italian holiday. In Greece there was free internet everywhere, even in the smallest of hotels or B&B's. It doesn't seem like it will be so in Italy, but blog will be updated as internet is available. Preferably free internet in the hotels! Also, hope to upload large amounts of photos; if that isn't possible, will put a few here on the blog.

Also hoping that the rainy weather that's been all over Europe will give way to sunny skies. We haven't been back to Venice or Rome since we went digital, so looking forward to great new photos.

This years schedule:

Venice 2 nights

Rome 3 nights

Sorrento 4 nights - with visits to Amalfi Coast, Capri, and Naples

Orvieto 2 nights

Florence 1 night

Monterosso 3 nights

Milano 1 night......

and then, depending on the British Airways cabin crew strike, we will come home or NOT!

PS: there's new Italian music in The Box

Sir Cliff Richard

Many years ago, this is how I first saw Cliff Richard and the Shadows, but only on the movie screen.

Wasn't it just yesterday?

Having seen Cliff in person twice before, I never had any idea I would be so lucky to actually see him and the Shadows perform.

Then, all of a sudden, there was great news.......

In September we will be headed to England, to see the 50th anniversary reunion of Cliff and the Shads! We all look a little older - but the music will sound the same.

That's Bruce Welch, Hank Marvin, Cliff, and Brian Bennett. Cliff is otherwise known these days as Sir Cliff Richard.

Home

Athens airport gives you 45 min free wi-fi - but apparently you have to change many computer settings which they give detailed instructions to do. I thought I would just forget it.

I am p0sting this from home, where we arrived in the house at 9pm last night. Horrors, doesn't seem late but we were on 4:30am Greece time! Flights were good, smooth and friendly as always with British Airways. I will eventually edit, add more photos and eventually caption them - of course, they are only my photos. There will be more photos and video added for an eventual DVD - in the future. Meanwhile, planning September trip to see Clif Richard in London and contemplating where we would like to go next year!

final night in Greece

Well, we’ve paid 40 euro a night for a room and had wi-fi in Naxos and had wonderful breakfast. Imagine paying big bucks for hotel across from airport and they want you to pay for both breakfast and wi-fi! Ha! Well, wi-fi is free in the bar, but we brought our own bottle of wine from Nafplio!

We arrived arround 4pm, dropped off by bus in front of Departures. I went into airport, printed out our boarding passes for tomorrow morning, then we walked over to hotel, checked in, took our bags to our room and then went back into airport for lunch. We’ll relax for awhile, then have our wine and snack mix before walking back over to airport. No wi-fi in room, but robes and slippers and a shower big enough for 3 people -- that rains down on you from the ceiling. Satellite TV - phone in bathroom, 2 phones in bedroom - in case you are too lazy to get up and answer the one on the table by the bed. Window faces the runaway - that’s your entertainment. We are on the 6th floor - French restaurant facing the lighted runways is on the 9th floor. Entrees cost more than we paid for whole meals on the trip!! So, we will dine at the airport!

Returning to Athens for last day in Greece

We spent our last evening in Nafplio last night. Woke up this morning, first thing was to check-in on line. How territic that is! On flight to Athens and from LHR to home, we had been assigned to row 38. I moved us up to row 7 from Athens to Heathrow, and row 16 on outbound flight home. We are able to get the seats by the bulk head on the way home, so will not have seats in front of us - more legroom!!

Door open this morning, heard woman who runs place talking - she was feeding the little box turtle who lives in the garden - he had sliced apples. Right friendly little fellow, walks around and just looks at you, not at all timid.

This was really our last traditional Greek breakfast. We have to be out of here at noon. Then we will slowly walk down the steps and down the hill. Good thing about staying in hilltown is that it is an easy exit.

Coming from Athens to here took little over 2 hrs, we are unsure about time back, maybe much longer. Interesting thing about hill towns - depending on which way you are going - travel times are different. When we went into Fira on Santorini, it took 1 hr to get up the mountain into town. Leaving it took 15 min!!! It was all downhill. Leaving here we will have to go uphill - we are figuring it will b slow long ride to get the big bus up the hill! It doesn't really matter since flight is not until early tomorrow. We have nothing to do today - just finished breakfast at 10 am! Going home will be a rude awakening!

Nafplio - Day 3

Yesterday we walked around the harbor to the local beach - stone beach like in Nice, France - doesn't bother me, I acutally prefer it to the awful sand experience. Later we had dinner at a little taverna on the Square - children were playing in the Square - fun watching them - they parents could have a drink and relax while they rode their little bikes or played football (soccer). We didn't even pick our meal from the menu, the owner asked if we wanted me or fish, asked us if we liked pork and then insisted we have his special. Dinner was to die for - roasted pork, stuffed tomatoes and vine leaves. I don't think I've eaten so much at one meal since we've been here!! After returning home to our patio with a bottle of wine, the girl who runs the place gave us a plate of watermelon - had no intention of eating it until we tasted it! Fruit here has true flavor, tastes better than anything we would consider the best at home.

Both yesterday and today I visited an Italian owned gelateria - and had my favorite dark chocolate gelati. Yes, it was the true thing - best I've tasted since having it at my favorite place in Venice. I just don't like any gelati - it has to be just right!! Yesterday we sat inside to eat it and who was singing on the radio but Eros Ramazzotti!! I felt right at home!

Jim went to beach today, I shopped a bit and sat at the harbor with my gelati. Tonight we shall have our last Greek meal - as I'm sure whatever we get tomorrow night at the hotel near the airport will not be the same quality, definitely not the same atmosphere!!! We have not had one meal inside since we left home! Every night it has been at a side walk cafe.

Nafplio - Day 2 in the Peloponnese, first day was really an evening!!

We arrived here at 7pm last night and finally after getting side tracked, we found our hotel. Up many, many stepds to a fabulous room overlooking the harbor with our own patio. Robes and slippers for us in the closet and our own sitting room as well. One has to see the photos to give it the justice it deserves. Exhauster after a long day, we were served cold water and glasses of orange juice with a few little different cakes - which were brought up to our patio. After showers and a rest, we headed out to dinner at 9:30pm. We returned to our patio with a bottle of wine.

We had breakfast in the garden - a huge buffet of goodies that we walked up many steps to get to - we selected what we wanted and the girl here carried our choice to the terrace. In a little while we will go exploring our new town, then perhaps go to the local beach for awhile. It is warmer here and so far no wind like we experienced in Naxos.

Greece 101

Wonderful people who are friendly, hospitable, helpful and great cooks! Most of them speak English, if they don’t they still understand a few words.

Fantastic fresh fruits and vegetables, calamari and octopus.
Feta cheese like you find no where else and every thing with a touch of the most wonderful virgin olive oil; some items have more than a touch!
French fries with oregano. Potatoes from Naxos in any way shape or form - the finest in the world.

Greeks have no sense of personal space, not rude, just no sense of it - here they will get up in your face to talk to you, touch you or pat you on your shoulder - but all in a nice way. If you are queuing up for something - it is every one for himself. Either you push ahead or they will walk in front of you. My kind of people, I like to push ahead. In England, I have to be good and stay in the queue.

Transportation is well organized and inexpensive whether it is by bus or ferry or car rental. Greeks drive aggressively, worst drivers are the tourists - we complained about them all the time! Crossing the street you can try to beat the Vespa’s ( guess they call them all motor bikes now) before they get you. Crossing the street is a sport much like in Italy.

Bathrooms and hygiene almost deserve their own post. Bathtub can be rare. Showers can be without a shower curtain, or tiny space with a shower curtain, or exotic with a shower type Jacuzzi. Floors in bathrooms all have drains on the islands. They are more civilized on the mainland. Water pressure and hot water, no problem. Showers are the European kind, one can’t always expend to stand under one. The last place, you could have stood under, it if you were a midget. Once out of Athens, bathrooms can be an interesting adventure.

Toilets: In some bus stations, they still have the old ones like in various parts of Italy. Holes in the ground that one squats over. I know not to venture into a train or bus station in various parts of Europe expecting to see a flushing toilet - even high up in the Alps I found one of those critters. Again, once out of Athens, there are signs above every toilet - DO NOT put any paper in toilet. There is a little can to dispose of toilet paper next to every toilet. Plumbing does not support paper. Put paper in, and flush and run - unless you want to explain to hotel or restaurant owner that you caused the problem. It’s the same in the beautiful rest rooms on the ferries. Nice, clean flushing toilets - with a sign and the little can next to the toilet.

Marble is everywhere. There is even a little village in Naxos where the streets are paved with marble. Steps and walkways and even curbs here in Nauplio are marble

No one wears little plastic gloves when they are preparing your food, picking out your fish to show you how fresh it is - or getting your meal ready. Just a little while ago I chose a cheese roll from the counter and gloveless fingers picked it up and handed it to me. People are not dropping dead in the streets either. I think we worry too much about germs. Snorkeling equipment on boats - used by others. We don’t snorkel, but others on the boat just picked up snorkel from pile and put it in their mouth. No worries.

Naxos Day 3

Today we drove through various villages, rode by or through historial sites. We were up at Mt. Zeus - nothing like driving along a rode as narrow as the car with the right side being a drop off the mountain. We returned to the beaches to have lunch of Moussaka, broad beans and wine. The way the cook the beans is wonderful - they have become my new favorite food. They are sort of cooked up with either tomatoes & zucchini and in Crete we had them with the wild artichokes - olive oil is a key ingredient in everything, as is garlic. However, one doesn’t really taste the garlic.

We will go out early tonight, around 6pm, to do a bit of shopping for souvenirs. Then we will sit down and relax with some wine, while contemplating what we really want to eat tonight, keeping in mind we had a big lunch today.

It seems we will have wi-fi tomorrow at next hotel in Nafplio, or Nafplion or and I know there is yet another spelling and pronunciation. In the morning our ferry will take us to Piraeus which should be a sight in itself. It is the main shipping port for Athens. We will be there long enough to disembark and get a taxi to the bus station.

Eating in Greece

I thought there should be a whole post devoted to eating in Greece. There are no dead fast rules like at home. No rules at all. No matter what time you go and sit at a table - you choose your table for one, and then you can have only drink, only an appetizer, a full meal or whatever you like. Sharing is expected, you will be offered or given another plate even if you order only one appetizer with your wine or drinks. One can share appetizers, main courses - there is no such thing as having to order an entrée. As our waiter said last night “ you’re the boss”. If you want only a salad - that’s fine.

We usually have wine, sometimes at a different café or taverna than where we eat. Then we move onto choosing what we will eat, and more wine of course. When you eventually ask for the check, you are brought a little digestive, usually the local liqueur, and sometimes of a bit of something sweet to eat or most of the time a little bit of fruit salad. Always fresh fruits, little bits of chopped kiwi, strawberries, apple or whatever. If your meal cost 10 euro (like our mixed seafood grill last night), you pay for that and your wine and nothing else. Last night we did each have our own meal, but still, eating really good food can be really inexpensive.

One eats sweets or ice cream as a snack, any time of day, but NOT after a meal. It’s all very interesting!

Greek yogurt, always for breakfast and also used in making many local dishes. In the morning, one has yogurt with fresh fruit, museuli and always with honey. It’s not the runny, liquid stuff we have at home; if any one has ever experienced Fromage Blanc in France, it is similar. It is also plain, not sour and is bought in big tubs like we might get cottage cheese. It is one wonderful experience.

Honey - used for everything. Sits on the table next to the sugar. Not quite as sweet as the honey we have at home - I shall have to tell our bees about that!

Final thing I can think of - deep fried potatoes with salt and oregano!

Naxos Day 2

After breakfast, George, the owner of the hotel arranged for us to rent a car. We didn’t even have to leave the breakfast table, and our car arrived. 25 euro a day to rent a car, we did take the CDW insurance, so it is 35 euro a day. Can’t beat thatf so that you can explore the whole island. Many folks are out with scooters, or four wheelers as well as cars.

It is really incredible how remote some of the big resorts and beaches are - many are down very tiny dirt roads. Every beach seems to have it’s own little super market, a big taverna (some on the beach, some across the dirt road) - it was interesting to see them using a hose to water down the road in front of the taverna - if you were sitting at a table on the road, you wouldn’t have to worry about getting dusty! We drove through a village where the streets were about only as wide as the car - with buildings on both sides! Beautiful flowers on the roadside - and at one point a few sheep in the road.

On the beach today I found something very interesting. Years ago when we had parakeets we would always buy them a cuttlebone. Of course, I never had any idea what it was - however, they refer to squid here as Cuttlefish - and their tails are shaped like the cuttlebone. I actually found one on the beach. I don’t think it’s from the young squid (aka Calamari) that we have been eating. I actually had a whole one grilled the other day and it’s tail part was much smaller than
this cuttle bone I found.

It’s cooler that we had hoped it would be - sunny at times, then there will be a bit of clouds. Many tavernas on the beach, but a bit too windy and therefore chilly. We are considering going for a drink on the beach, will have to see what it is like when we actually go out. It’s cool out on our balcony.

Last night we had mixed grill with grilled octopus and calamari - the octopus were hanging outside and we actually saw the cook come out and get one off the rack. The shrimp were battered very lightly and deep fried but nothing deep fried here is greasy - they were baby shrimp and after you pulled off the head, you could eat shell and all!

The restaurants all have the grills where you can see what is cooking (wood burning grills) - and some of the restaurant owners have the fish outside on ice so you can choose what you like. You can even go see what is cooking - no surprises and every thing is fresh.

Tonight we returned to the same taverna as last night - due to being told about the Rabbit Stifano. We had the most delicious meal that we can remember having in a long time. The tomato sauce with little whole onions - was to die for - nothing like spaghette sauce, and the rabbit was lean and tender. It was served with baked potato - again not a baked potato that we are used to but sliced potatoes baked in the oven. We learn Naxos is famous for its pototoes and even exports them to China! We have never tasted such wonderful potatoes - they don't need butter!

Naxos Day 1 - May 18

As I write this we sit on a the Blue Star Paros ferry. We left Santorini at 3:30pm and will arrive in Naxos town (Hora) at 5:30pm. From there we will walk to Agios Georgios where we will be staying.
There is a hot spot on the ferry, but they want 3 euro for time, and we will only be on here for 2 hrs. We are on an upper deck, covered, but outside. The hot spot is inside and quite smokey. Greeks are still very fond of their cigarettes. There are café bars on every level, at at least one small restaurant downstairs. The ferry is huge, many large trucks and cars were loaded on before they left us board.
I really doubt that we will have wi-fi access in Naxos, but I will continue to write and then add to blog when I am able.

Oia - Day 2, May 17

We arrived on The Flying Cat 4 from Irakio yesterday at the port. There we boarded a bus for about an hour ride into the town of Thira or Fira, all the same and part of the confusion about Greek names. Neither of those is actually the Greek spelling, so there is yet another name. From Thira, we got on the bus to Oia.
Closely following the directions from Old Oia Houses, we looked up at the church, followed the side street and the path until we came to the Square; then walked another 5 minutes with the sea to our left to the Lotza restaurant. It is there we got our key and followed a young man to our cave house. For the pirce of 90 euro, we have a cave house that only photos can describe. We have a veranda, tables, chairs, lounging chairs and a clothes line - oh, and the view - of the famous Caldera. Everyone has seen the photos of the white houses on the cliff above the gorgeous blue water - we are staying in one of those houses.
One climbs up steps, down steps, up more steps -- luckily we have a house higher than many others -the 9 steps down to our house are curved, no railing and it seems one could easily fall off the cliff. Lu,ckily, so far, I haven’t yet. A stroll through the small village is cobbled paths, up steps, down steps - the beauty of the place makes it worth all the trouble to get where you are going.
We have a fridge, juice, water, coffee and Mr. Coffee type pot to make coffee (my worse culinary skill. I can run an espresso machine, & even perfectly steam milk , otherwise my coffee can be scary), and we have butter, honey. The fresh bread is to had from Lotza - one must navigate up the 9 winding steps, through the gate, down the path, then up to the main path (more steps ) to get the bread. No doubt, calories do not count here.
This morning for 20 euros plus $5 for extra insurance we rented a 4-wheeler and explored the shore road with all of it’s beaches. Jim drove, I held on for dear life. No flat ground here, steep climbs and steep decent. Our helmets are here in the house with us, our 4-wheeler is parked up in the parking lot. We do not have to return it until morning. Not that we are going anywhere else, well Jim might, but I’m not having another bad hair day compliments of the helmet. The one grand thing about the 4-wheeler is that it took us all the way down the cliff to a little area called Amoundi, where we had a wonderful fresh fish grilled right there on the edge of the water. I went in with the waiter to pick out the fish, he weighed it, told me how much lunch would cost and then gave it to the man behind the counter to clean. Then it was brought outside to the cook (a guy in t-shirt and jeans) who grilled it. It was presented cut in half and was really terrific. Of course, there are pictures!! While we sitting there we saw other fish being brought fresh to the restaurants.
While we were eating, clouds came in, it became extremely windy. Wind has died down, sun is peeking out. We are unsure at this point whether we will experience one of the famous Oia sunsets or not. Last night’s wasn’t breakthing taking either--but we did see it.
Since we had such a great lunch (at around 3-4 pm), we are thinking we will just do the Greek routine of wine and snacks in a little while (it’s 7pm) and perhaps go out later for dessert, coffee and an ouzo.

Oia, Santorini - Day 1 May 16

Oh, the marvels of modern day conveience. I am sitting here on the Flying Cat 4, on my way to Santorini. Airline type seats, sitting inside - coffee bar straight ahead, big flat screen TV’s on the wall, watching contestants on Eurovision. Of course, cannot understand the commentary, but much of the music seems good. Nothing to see out the big windows next to us but blue sea. In 1 hr, 45 minutes, we shall arrive in Santorini. Upon arrival we will have to find our luggage, which is somewhere in the back of the vessel; then we will board a bus to Thira, get off, get on another bus to Oia. We have a little walk to the Lotza Restaurant where we willl pick our keys to our place. Again, feels like Vernazza where you go to restaurant to get your keys.
Oia is a small village at the end of the island where everyone comes to watch the famous sunsets. Hopefully, if we are given the right room, we may be able to experience it from our own place. If not, it will only be a short walk away. I will save this entry and then post it when the internet becomes available. So, this post is not “in real time”.

Irakilo - Day 1

This morning we boarded a bus for a 3 hr ride from Chania to Iraklio which is the capital of Crete. We arrived around 3:30pm, walked to our hotel which was close to bus station and which is also close to port. When we checked in we were given a nice surprise - our room had been upgraded to a business suite. We have one large front veranda facing the port - another enclosed one which also has a sitting area and deak, stereo system--and then there's the bedroom with king size bed, bath with a jacquzzim and the back sun porch with cushioned chaise lounges. Pretty nifty. We took a little stroll through town, bought some wine and cheese to enjoy on the veranda and then later walked up the stairs outside our room to an outside dining room.

We watched our ship come in tonight - it is actually called the Flying Cat 4 and tomorrow at 9:45am it will take us to Santonrini in 2 hr. 45 min. Then we will take bus to Thira, then another bus to Oia where we will be staying.

As I write this, sitting in big white fluffy robe, compliments of the busines suite, I am watching a big ferry pull out of it's berth and head out to sea. Our next two ferry rides will be like that, but for tomorrow it will be the Flying Cat. The above is a day time view of where I am sitting now.

Again, not sure what sort of connection will be available at next stop, but, have uploaded photos again today and will be back here when I am able to connect.

Day 3 in Chania

After another wonderful breakfast, we went to Central Market and did some shopping. Lazy day today, after shopping we came back, changed and headed out to the Glass Bottom boat to ride out to a few small islets. Well, of course, while waiting for it to be time to leave we sat in the nearby cafe and had Cappucino Freddo's. One can have their espresso any way they want.

Tomorrow after breakfast we plan to visit the maritime museum next door, and the Venetian fort, which is attached to it. After that we will walk to bus station and take a bus to Iraklio, which is 3 hrs away. We spend one night there, only for the purpose of being there early in the monring to catch the Flying Cat ferry to Fira, Santorini. The ferry leaves "early" by Greek standards; as our taxi driver said who brought us into town from Chania airport said - you would have to leave in the night -not good! This is how one rationalizes going to Iraklio for the night, because no one in their right mind would want to be there instead of Chania.

We have learned much about the Greeks. If one can use only one word to describe what Greece means it is hospitality. Every one from the start in Athens is more than helpful. A man on a motor scooter stopped when we were looking for our hotel - nothing is too much trouble for anyone to help you. They are also, as someone said to us, much like Southern Italians - LOUD. They all speak and yell - but are saying nice things. They are very polite, and probably use more please, thank you and sorry than any other people. They welcome you, they tell you have a nice day even when you turn down an invite to eat in their restaurant - whatever, no one ever seems to say a mean word.

It can get very hot here in the afternoons, siesta time is 4 hrs here. Every thing quiets down. We were told the reason Greeks eat so late is that they don't get off work until 9pm. At that time, if they go out to eat, they take the children too. Of course, little ones have had naps during the afternoon. Baby-sitters we were told - are non existant. All very interesting.

I think it's time for our cocktail hour. We will go out now for an appetizer and drink. It's 6:30 pm and much too early to eat!

Day 2 in Chania

Breakfast was a wonderful experience of sitting and looking out at the harbor while being servedf many fine local breads, local pastries, Greek yogurt & honey, boiled egg, fresh fruits (kiwi, strawberries, melon, grapes and more) and wonderful coffee. While we are sitting there, talking about our dinner last night, comparing it to Vernazza meals in the Cinqueterre - there comes a very similar song on the radio. There will probably be only one person reading this that it will have any meaning for : it was APPLAUSI by iCameleoni. Even Jim recognized it! Crete was once inhabitated by the Venetians who fought for it and won it from the Turks. There is a lot of Venetian structure and much Italian influence --but hearing Applausi was certainly unexpected. I think they must have been playing Italian oldies!!

After breakfast we took a 10 minute walk to the beach. Of course, we used our beach towel that we had bought a couple years ago in Vernazza. It seemed the only right thing to do!! When we had enough of the sunshine, we headed back to stop at the same little cafe where we had lunch yesterday. Every thing one eats here is fresh. In fact, when you talk to someone about a good place to eat, the word fresh is mentioned several times. Greeks (well, here like to be called Cretans) do not care for anything that is not fresh.
We had dinner last night at a place we had passed by in the afternoon during our stroll along the harbor. In the afternoon the owner greeted us, showed us the menu, took us back to the kitchen area to show us the moussaka that had just out of the oven, opened the cooler to show us the frresh fish that had just arrived, showed us the local greens. They are proud of their restaurants and only want to serve the very best and the freshest of foods. We had a wonderful dinner of mixed fish grill - after a salad of the most wonderful fresh tomatoes and fresh cripsy cucumbers. Of course, every thing one eats either has olive oil on it or was cooked in it. Every menu will tell you" we use only virgin olive oil." With the fish, one gets a little pitcher of olive oil with fresh lemon juice - and is instructed to dip the fish in it. The mixed grill had probably 7-8 or more different kinds of local fish plus grilled octopus, shrimps, calamari . After the meal, the owner brought us a little dessert, and then sat a bottle of the what is referred to as a "digestive" on the table. Something similar to an ouzo or Sambucca but different. We had paid 55 euro (before tip) and paid for only our fish, the salad, a liter of wine and 2 espressos.

Tonight we will head to another restaurant that was recommended to us - we were told if they are not busy, they too take you to the kitchen so you can chose your meal. Right now, we are both on our veranda; the harbour cafe's below us are quiet - it is siesta time. Things will pick up about 6-7 for drinks or coffee - no one gets serious about dinner until 9pm or after. That includes us! We have our wine chilling and some olives and cheese - and will have our drink time right here!

Remember to check photos.....link is below in previous post. I try to upload some each day.

Chania, Crete

We arrived here in Chania about 10am....took taxi to our hotel on the harbor. This is the BIG SPLURGE hotel. Pretty fantastic.

http://home.comcast.net/~grizabella go to this link to see photos of Crete. There's wi-fi here for free, can use Mini traveler in our room, so I had time to upload some photos. I started with here today; did not back track to Athens. I'll add more if I have time, but probably won't add captions after this, too time consuming. They are not edited, so put up with the bad shots!!

It is truly gorgeous here - will have dinner tonight at cafe on the harbor.

Last day in Athens

The Acropolis: wait until you all see photos. It's beautiful and today we went up there--it's very high above the city of Athens. It was hot, it was dusty and grimy. But we did it!! Can't come to Greece without coming to Athens or going to the Acropolis - it has to be done. We have paid our homage to the ancient Greeks, time to move on.

We have been very busy, hardly a minute sitting still - unless it's in a cafe! Tonight is our last dinner in Athens, we all ready know which cafe we will go to - much later of course, because it is only 6pm!

Tomorrow we will be up and walking out of the hotel at 6:30am - take the 10 min walk to the airport bus - a hour ride. Our flight is at 9am and at 10am we will land in Chania, Crete. We splurged and have a room with a balcony, facing the harbour.

It's unknown at this time whether there will be any wi-fi access at next hotel. At least mini-T (aka Baby Dell) is light enough to drag around to a hotspot. By the way, for anyone who cares, why we were rushing through the security check points at LHR, trying desperately to make our flight to Greece - the security girl said "look at this sweet little computer!" -- I told her it was a Dell baby - and everyone got a laugh! We put our shoes back on and ran for the flight!!!!

We will be in touch when there is access.....in the islands. Head to crystal blue water and grilled octopus and squid!

Day 2 in Athens Greece

Got into our hotel around between 6-7 last night. Left home, got flight to LHR and had to be rushed through the Fast Track security lanes in two different areas at LHR so we could make our flight. British Airways never lets you down. We were at the gate for Athens a minute before boarding.

There is a 7-hr time difference between here and the states - we had thought it was 6.

Had dinner last night at little cafe in a square - walked around the corner and we could see the floodlit Acropolis up on the hill. I had spinach pie - Jim had a lamb casserole. Great!

Today we saw the changing of the guards at Parliament,walked around the Plaka, went to the Athens flea market, had a Gyro and beer for lunch (Greek beer of course) and the owner gave us each an ouzo on the house!

The changing of the guards included a marching band parade - we have a video. It was quite an experience!

We came back at hotel at 6pm, sat at the little cafe next to our hotel - Jim had iced coffee creation and I had chocolate milkshake. Neither were what you would have a home, but wonderful!

It's nearing 8pm and after awhile we'll go out to dinner. People here sit down in restaurants at 10pm!!!

Tomorrow we go to the Acropolis and will spend the day touring ruins!

It's SUMMER HOLIDAY time!!

We're all going on a summer holiday
No more working for a week or two
Fun and laughter on our summer holiday
No more worries for me or you
For a week or two

(......wait, let's get some help from Cliff...click on Summer Holiday to your right....under Great Songs---which it is, of course!!)


We're going where the sun shines brightly
We're going where the sea is blue
We've seen it in the movies
Now let's see if it's true

Everybody has a summer holiday
Doin' things they always wanted to
So we're going on a summer holiday
To make our dreams come true
For me and you.

Next entry will be while we are on the road. Stay tuned...

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Concorde Anniversary

Celebrations are taking place today to mark the 40th anniversary of the first test flight by Concorde, from Filton to RAF Fairford in Gloucestershire.
On the 9 April 1969, the Concorde flew for 22 minutes over the Bristol Channel, then landed at the airbase. The luxury supersonic plane was retired by British Airways in 2003 because of a drop in demand for flights.

Some entertainment while waiting for Greece trip

Ringling Brothers is the place for entertainment. Such pretty well behaved kitties....and wonderful elephants, including a 3 yr old baby.

Somehow the circus seemed smaller, less animals and less entertainers than 20-25 yrs ago. I guess everyone is cutting costs. I've always been more fond of the animal acts; not too much into the high wire acts. Still, it was a well run and exciting show and enjoyed by all of us - if you are a 5 yr old like our grandson, you would have said it was awesome!

Cotton candy is now $12 and you get a big circus paper hat with it. We went for the $7 box of popcorn and all shared! And, the little guy went home with a program that came in a plastic bag which could be worn as a backpack - compliments of Grandpa.

Clowns don't look like clowns anymore - there was one with green hair and big green shoes, but pretty much they didn't seem the same either. Maybe the new clowns aren't as scary.....I personally liked the guys with orange hair and big red noses!

More preparations...

Normally, a month out from travel date I start to pack, putting everything in my bag I think I need to take; by the day I'm ready to leave, much of it has been removed and I'm ready to roll or carry my bag without too much difficulty. Packing light is a rule of the road.

This year I'm adding a new item to my "packing light" scenario. As I write this I'm waiting for it to be built and sent. The 2.2 lb Dell-mini is being added to my packing list. I'll be able to email, add to this blog, upload photos, check ferry scedules, check in on-line and I'm sure it will be my new best friend. I can even use it to charge my iPod. If only I could leave my hair dryer at home and have it dry my hair!

Itinerary for Greece 2009

And this is how it will all begin ...

May 8 Fri
Depart home 21:20 - arrive 9:35 LHR
May 9 Sat
Depart LHR 12:00 - arrive Athens 16:30
Athens

May 10 Sun
Plan to tour ruins and Athens
Athens

May 11 Mon
Sunset bus tour to Cape Sounion
Athens

May 12 Tues
Depart 9:10 ATH Arrive: 10:00 Chania in Crete
Chania

May 13 Wed
Rent car to drive to beaches, visit small villages over 3 days
Chania

May 14 Thurs
Chania

May 15 Fri
Bus from Chania (Hania) to Heraklion (Iraklion) -
Heraklion
Visit Minoan palace sites

May 16 Sat
ferry to Fira, bus to Oia where we are staying
Santorini

May 17 Sun
Rent four-wheeler to travel from beach to beach
Santorini

May 18 Mon
ferry to Naxos - rent car to travel from beach to beach
Naxos

May 19 Tues
drive from Village to village over 3 days
Naxos

May 20 Wed
Naxos

May 21 Thurs
ferry to Pireaus, taxi fo K-tel A station, bus to Nafplio – all day to get there
Nafplio

May 22 Fri
Spend 3 days touring the Peloponnese
Nafplio

May 23 Sat
Nafplio

May 24 Sun
bus to Athens – spend last night at luxury hotel at the airport
Athens airport

May 25 Mon
Depart 8:15 arrive 10:15 LHR
Depart 16:10 LHR arrive home 19:30